joe90 Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 (edited) Our new conservatory will be fitted in a few weeks, then the builder will be screeding over 200mm of insulation . After reading other threads on tiling, de coupling mats etc etc is there anything special I should do for this floor as it will cool overnight and be cold in the winter as it has no heating but will get warm (hot) in the summer due to facing South (solar glass is being installed in the roof to hopefully negate over heating).? I was thinking of a floor tile that was not too light in colour so it would absorb heat during the day to make evening temps warm! P.S. it will be 10m by 2.3m. Edited August 25, 2018 by joe90 Add Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 How about use a thickish limestone or slate instead to absorb heat ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 4 minutes ago, PeterW said: How about use a thickish limestone or slate instead to absorb heat ..? I don’t like slate much as it scratches easily (and our conservatory is also our back door, dogs etc) I like porcelain as it’s bullet proof and I am hoping because it’s glued to a concrete screed it will absorb some heat. My question is more about gluing methods etc to avoid problems ( my kitchen floor has a few tiles that sound hollow but I have fitted the kitchen/skirting so I am loathed to disturb it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 My porcelain tiles in my sunroom really absorb the heat. They are 600*600 and the area surrounding the door and big window gets pretty warm if the sun is shining on it all day. I just used a flexible adhesive to glue them down and 4 years later they haven't moved yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 18 minutes ago, Declan52 said: My porcelain tiles in my sunroom really absorb the heat. They are 600*600 and the area surrounding the door and big window gets pretty warm if the sun is shining on it all day. I just used a flexible adhesive to glue them down and 4 years later they haven't moved yet. Glad you called it a sunroom, it’s what I meant (as I hate usual conservatories). Thanks for that Declan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 O need for matting As Declan says Porcelin are great all rounder look good don’t mark hold heat and great to cut Dont forget to seal the floor with 4-1 SBR prior to tiling Make sure sunroom floor has dried out prior to tiling Sounds a really nice size Sourh facing as well ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 7 minutes ago, nod said: 4-1 SBR Great Nod, thanks. Do you mean 4 of water and 1 of SBR.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 24 minutes ago, nod said: O need for matting As Declan says Porcelin are great all rounder look good don’t mark hold heat and great to cut Dont forget to seal the floor with 4-1 SBR prior to tiling Make sure sunroom floor has dried out prior to tiling Sounds a really nice size Sourh facing as well ? They don't mark but with the sun shining on them you can see every minute piece of dirt. Reckon mine won't see this date next year!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 2 hours ago, joe90 said: Great Nod, thanks. Do you mean 4 of water and 1 of SBR.? Yes for water Don’t forget to back butter your floor tiles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 2 hours ago, nod said: Yes for water Don’t forget to back butter your floor tiles +1. If it's not bed n butter then expect them to come back up by themselves. No need for matting, don't waste your money. Make 100% sure you do not grout to the wall so there's available expansion in the whole tiled area ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 Here is where the sunroom will go. Will post pic of completion 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: +1. If it's not bed n butter then expect them to come back up by themselves. No need for matting, don't waste your money. Make 100% sure you do not grout to the wall so there's available expansion in the whole tiled area ? You're scaring me now as I didn't butter the wet room corner tiles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 41 minutes ago, Onoff said: You're scaring me now as I didn't butter the wet room corner tiles! With the amount of tanking you did you could get away without grout 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 Just found this on the web 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 So if you back butter the tile you use the FLAT edge of the trowel? I used the notched edge on the floor then again the notched to back butter the tile but at 90o to the floor. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 Ditto here. Can see an issue - just end up with a slightly thicker bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 21 hours ago, Onoff said: So if you back butter the tile you use the FLAT edge of the trowel? I used the notched edge on the floor then again the notched to back butter the tile but at 90o to the floor. ??? I use two different methods, dependant on the quality of the slab. One is to put a 10mm notch on the floor and butter the back of the tile with the flat edge of the trowel ( for good floors which don't need too much smoothing ) and the second is where I put a 10mm notch on both the tile and the floor and then I can either leave them sitting up or squash them down a bit if there are highs and lows to traverse. Did that over a rough concrete slab in a kitchen extension where Magnet had fitted tiles for a £30k kitchen, and my tiling in the small extension made the customer do a double take as the "showroom" ( LOL ) fitters tiling was shocking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 The screed in our sunspace is going down on Friday, builder is putting edge insulation round it and an expansion joint in the middle to cope with temp differences, I can then tile from that expansion gap either way. Glass going in today ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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