Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Cheapo chop saws are useless for accurate skirting imo. The Evolution Rage I have is crap for it. A decent big Dewalt is the kiddie for this job. I HATE doing skirting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) Aha ok I understand the clips now.. & the magnetic catches sound useful Onoff thanks indeed for the kind offer/ will PM. I think that grade floorboard idea might let the side down a little.. altho cheap for sure. I think something a step up: any other ideas bar MDF then? pine will cup, & plastic-wood covered chipboard (stuff on before) placcy top will chip when cutting/ look bad. Progress (lino/ skirting).. but cannot get the skirting to meet bar gaps, so glueing is n/a (need help how to remedy!).. Edited January 22, 2019 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Tbh that really doesn't look that bad. At this stage I would I think back off the screws and get those mitred faces pushed together and glued and pinned. Wipe off the excess glue. That will of course leave a gap to the wall. Fill with decorators caulk and smooth level with the skirting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 [Edited pic 3 above, more smart n tarty this shot] Looks better in photos tbh Onoff. Point is I can't get the mitred faces to close better than this.. at the top they only just meet on 1 of the 3 mitre joins, otherwise its clear 1-2mm gaps, which can't be closed by glue can it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Cheapo chop saws are useless for accurate skirting imo. The Evolution Rage I have is crap for it. A decent big Dewalt is the kiddie for this job. I HATE doing skirting. I have to agree: my chopsaw's quite a big'un & not deWalt quality (erbauer) so once 45* set, the weight of it hangs a bit & so an innevitable slight curve happens cutting though: so I could never get a perfect mitre joint of 2 faces. I can't believe how long this job has taken me.. hateful indeed. But never use MDF. Dust, expensive extra glue needed for mitre joints (if you can cut good enough to glue), seems dearer too maybe & not so water friendly so I have another job to silicone a bead all round the perimeter to stop cleaning water getting under to the fallible edge. Major mistake. Just use pine & woodglue you already have. Wasted maybe £15-£20 on this option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 @Onoff by the way what options to fill my c'sunk screws? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 18 minutes ago, zoothorn said: @Onoff by the way what options to fill my c'sunk screws? Toupret filler is magic imo but expensive. It doesn't shrink or slump. Make sure you sand off the wispy bits where you've countersunk the holes. You can do good things with MDF. I always use MDF primer before painting. Made this from some scrap cover boards from the local wood yard: Back to chop saws...The Erbauer is pretty low down the food chain. I tried cutting a through housing with my Rage Evolution 3. No proper depth stop and quite springy. Bottom of the housing was like a set of stairs! Back to the Dewalt radial arm saw! (Reminds me I must replace the capacitor in the saw that I borrowed for the gennie). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 It is low down relative to a dewalt yes.. but by god its good (even my builder had his eye on the one Ive got), for doing standard stuff that is.. I mostly use it to chop up my fallen/ gathered forest wood. id highly recommend it tbh/ damn relaible for 7 yrs (bought used) a far cry from the modern flimsy things i see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: It is low down relative to a dewalt yes.. but by god its good (even my builder had his eye on the one Ive got), for doing standard stuff that is.. I mostly use it to chop up my fallen/ gathered forest wood. id highly recommend it tbh/ damn relaible for 7 yrs (bought used) a far cry from the modern flimsy things i see. With the Rage 3 I can lay a STEEL scaffold pole on the cutting bed alongside a piece of 4"x2" timber and it'll cut through BOTH. It's more for building sheds and stud walls though than fine cabinet making. Lacks repeatability too I find but good for "rougher" work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 Here's mine. It stays in 'missionary' position straight up 90* (no more reversecowgirl funny angle bllx it doesn't like that), & as such its great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, zoothorn said: Here's mine. It stays in 'missionary' position straight up 90* (no more reversecowgirl funny angle bllx it doesn't like that), & as such its great. If it works for you etc! I doubt any chop saw maker would recommend chopping firewood with it though. Lumping logs onto the bed will knock it out of adjustment I imagine. Cutting wet wood will put more strain on the motor too. I think too that by cutting thicker diameter logs you probably have to rotate them to get through it? That'll put lateral strain on the blade and bearings over time. My chippy mate would have kittens. Edited January 23, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 (edited) Anything else Onoff?! Nope actually yr totally wrong (for once). It cuts 5" dia logs like so with ease in 3 secs/ no strain. I never rotate/ I bowsaw any last wee bit if a tad over 5". I never cut wet wood/ & lumping logs on (placing on I do) & its true still as its damn solid. Cutting this A+seasoned pine.. I think its -the- most ideal tool for any job I've used. Its certainly the best tool I've had with UK dewalts, skilsaws, japan makitas all needing some maintenance or a bit breaking or falling off: this hasn't even had 2 new brushes or 1 screw loose in 10+ yrs/ 100% reliable. plus I use it the most, & I bought it used so its ~15 yrs old too min? thats saying a helluvalot. I bet my btm dollar your Rage won't last half as long as this. If it were hardwood- sure it might strain to cut 5". so I just not collect & cut over 3"/ whatever. no sense to. Assumptions assumptions.. it says something if my builder of 40yrs experience keeps his eye out for this exact one I'd suggest! hugely recommended (by a pro woodworker too- me!) if not by your chippy mate! Edited January 25, 2019 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Hiatus/ I ran out of motivation (skirting.. low down, back grumbles etc).. but pulled my finger out & skirting caulked/ done! & plinths sort of done too (MFC recommended by jewson's & to be honest, seems firm enough just wedged in for now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 Made a major c*ck up on the cupboards' painting: hours spent priming, painting (cream) 3 drawer fronts.. turned out a distaster: horrid plasticy shiny thick gloop. Wrong. Then 4x as many hours, over 3 days, paint-removing!! £12 on paint, £8 on remover & godawful job to get back as was! Cupboards shall remain oak/ as is then. Last 2 things to do. 1) fit two nice 'floating' wood shelves, or something nice like so.. any ideas? & 2) a corner cupboard last. Then job DONE. Close! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, zoothorn said: Made a major c*ck up on the cupboards' painting: hours spent priming, painting (cream) 3 drawer fronts.. turned out a distaster: horrid plasticy shiny thick gloop. Wrong. Then 4x as many hours, over 3 days, paint-removing!! £12 on paint, £8 on remover & godawful job to get back as was! Cupboards shall remain oak/ as is then. Last 2 things to do. 1) fit two nice 'floating' wood shelves, or something nice like so.. any ideas? & 2) a corner cupboard last. Then job DONE. Close! Do you have any spare cupboard doors? They are always good for a test.Alternatively, the back. Currently experimenting with a cheap-as-chips idea for painting cupboards grey. Wilko Spray paints from their Craft Range. £3.00-4.00 a spray can, which do several sqm of coverage each depending on the surface. When dad was doing it, he used to use car paints. Use the grey primer underneath, and a lacquer straight on top. B-i-L says it is good, and I have a T who wishes to overhaul a black wood-faced kitchen which has been in situ since 1993, and is still in good condition. It owes me nothing, so I will allow it. Being Ferdinand and therefore deranged, I have nearly a complete kitchen of spare doors even 25 years later, so I have something to play with. Dad had picked up a warehouse of kitchens from a company called Kalmar who pulled out of UK in about 1980, and I had all the remained Black Exclusive ones. Will report back. Ferdinand Edited February 20, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 Tbh Ferdinand I'm loathed considering painting them now after my fiasco.. its such a big job I didn't realise: 18x of the sods so spray canning will be expensive too if 2x coats min. I did think spray can must be the only way after I scrubbed my fingers to the bone wire-wooling all the damn paint off. A schoolboy error & such a dreadful result it shot my confidence back a page too! I'll just replace the knobs/ handles & they'll have to stay as is. Kitchen was going to be something of a 'cheapo-job' compromise, & I've far exceeded what I anticipated, thanks to the wonderful help & advice on here.. so I can live with them. Gratias- zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 I'm calling the kitchen- FINISHED godammit! (cos I'm already onto a new small job I need help on!).. & a few final pics of the results. So a -MASSIVE- thanks to Onoff (especially so).. & to PeterW, newhome, JSHarris.. & Ferdinand et al all who encouraged me with kind & helpful comments. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizzie Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Congratulations @zoothorn Looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) Looks good. Well done. The effort is always worth it, as the next one will take half the time. And you now know where some elephant traps are located. Edited February 21, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 That's a pretty amazing transformation, looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 So my new job. At my stove end of main room, I discovered a major cold-entry-area; I saw some gaps along top of wall & find a whole brick-high gap running right along, into a cavity above my bread-oven area [Pics 1,2]. The gap along was just covered over by painted hardboard & a wood strip (I thought I could feel a cold draught from around my head s'where!). I can get my arm right into the cavity.. but very tricky to fill it/ I can't think how: its too big for foam, & too innaccessible for PIR I'd have thought. Ive removed all the old bodged-on wood strip, crap plasterboard above [Pics 3,4] & cleaned up all ready.. for.. well, the right plan of attack is what I need help on. The gap along/ into cavity: cold funnels right down from the loft > down the upstairs wall voids > into room, a huge draught right in your face here. I've patched up smaller draughty edge gaps, but this is BIG in comparison. If I could successfully stem the cold into -here, really well plugged- it might make a significant difference. At the moment I can get the room warm, but there's a layer of cold at foot-level that lingers making one's oorse & legs nippy. Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Firstly @zoothorn that kitchen looks brilliant - you should be really chuffed ! That hole... I would look at blocks rather than brick, and you could do a quick fix using cheap thermalite blocks. They are easily cut with a handsaw and you can cut them with a slight taper to fit into the gap. Then foam any gaps or edges, smear of repair plaster over the top... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 Nice one guys- I'm definitely a muppet there's no doubt Ferdinand hehe. Very appropriate end 'note' too. PeterW its gonna be a helluva fiddly pickle blocking even cut up to 1/3rds, such as the tricky gap is about 3/4 of a bricks' side high (the buisiness card is there for size reference in pics).. but extends back/ in a good arms length+ above my bread oven. I was wondering if it might be a job for rockwool? IE its malleable & I could stuff a section in, push it back, then another etc.. but I'm not familiar with it & don't know if it would facilitate plugging the draught. And between the joists, is it neccesary to insulate these ~ 1ft square areas? the edge of bedroom1 is directly above here. Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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