Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[zoothorn]

Hey that's nifty.. thanks.

[Onoff]

4 hours ago, zoothorn said:

I worked out o'flow thing with all my brainpower at 2am. Thankfully red bit's squashy, & just squeezes thru gap only presssing runner in a few mm's/ fine, once Id cut off a good bit of joining grey 'L' pipe/ done. This is how tight things are due to huage bowl.

 

 

 

All in and looks nice 'n neat!

 

Have you got a waste trap to go on?

Edited September 4, 2018 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

Damn lucky I was there onoff. Its so tight fixing the sink to top will be a major headache, bowl end, but I'll cross that bridge in a while.

 

I've scrubbed the old placcy bits, if by a trap that's the white U etc bits, & grey bits so with luck they'll get me from A to B.

 

When its come to the few plumbing bits I've done, I dip into this chap's clips/ find he's got a stupid SOH, + professional.. a good combo/ less boring. So I've got the gist of the (waste bits) job.. the water pipes I'm still a bit unsure of tho. Taking.... my..... time..... I do apologise chaps, I know I know etc!!

 

I got friends coming this wknd/ suddenly sprung on me.. sheesh its a pickle in here! so 2 tops to seal raw bits twice / sink to fit in / biscuit prep / fit top1 / join tops / then do the plumbing stuff MUST be done in next few days.

 

 

 

Edited September 4, 2018 by zoothorn

[newhome]

Don’t go using that sink and splashing water onto the plasterboard without protecting it somehow so add that to the list too. 

 

Having friends to stay is always good for getting a crack on so 3 days to sort! 

 

 

[zoothorn]

Yes ok so I'm still not getting what to do with this section of plasterboard, which needs to be done 1st of all then.

 

If I put pva, or 1:1 pva/ water.. the paper surface will soak it in & get ruined, surely. I can't think of how to 'seal' it bc of the nature of the soft plasterboard + paper surface. It seems actually a very delicate thing pB, I was very surprised tbh how brittle & fallible it seems to be.

[newhome]

@PeterW any ideas on that one? No spare offcuts to use as upstands I think. Looks like both lengths are used here as worktop. 

[zoothorn]

@newhome et al. I'm not concerned about the upstand.. I'll be fixing an oak strip in due course & being careful not to wet this area beforehand.

 

But its the area of pB -UNDER/ BELOW- the worktop I am asking about, in order to prep it.. with ?.. which has to be done 1st.

 

All is held up until I can establish what, if anything, needs to be put on the face of this 2 ft wide plasterboard section [below the fixed--with-clear-silicone-in worktop] above it, coinciding  & adjacent to the plumbing bits n bobs.

 

And/ or what needs to be put on the -whole- area of pB below this sink side worktop.

[PeterW]

12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

But its the area of pB -UNDER/ BELOW- the worktop I am asking about, in order to prep it.. with ?.. which has to be done 1st.

 

Nothing needs doing - leave it alone and crack on with the worktops. 

[zoothorn]

Ok good. Right titebond 3 on its way/ post. Tnite I'm Osmo'ing the worktop inside sink rim, & back edge trim bit I had to do. And the underside too. Cant remember if you said don't bother.. but spiel says so, so will to be safe. Any clear silicone Peter?

 

Worktop spiel also says leave 5mm gap to wall.. which Ive accounted for: is this a std gap? or BIG due to it being wood do you think? so I guess I just whack in a good load all over the edge & press in. I do need to hit this 5mm gap spot on so hope it won't gloop/ fall down the gap.

[Ferdinand]

7 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Peter, cutting edge of worktop2 to butt up against t'other.. I have an angle to cut off the end. Now you alluded to " I guess you know how..? ":

 

well do I.. is there a better method than measuring this gap > applying to opposite side > mark/ score line w'blade > cut (over by 5mm with a jigsaw 1st > tidy up clean onto the line with a router via straight edge was my thinking)-?

 

Also here's hep2o bits.. anything missing? (think maybe I got 2x too many elbows in fact-?). I'm cleaning waste grey/ white bits to re-use.

 

 

 

Just before you cut that, check that it is the worktop that is wonky not the room that is not square, or you may be passed that by now !

 

You then need to decide whether to have a not-right-angle and compensate in the run of cupboards, or cover the gap at the back.

 

I really meant to comment on upstanding at the rear. If you want something really simple, then you can use skirting board .. wood, plastic or mdf. Or you could even use wooden or plastic quadrant.

 

Not as elegant, but easy to do to last a few years.

 

Ferdinand

[zoothorn]

1st on the job plumb Q. Trying to get grey pipe to reach white trap U section.. & not surprising can't. I can see what needs doing, which is swivel the whole grey pipe from Mickey hole  around a 1/4 turn so the entrance point  to the cabinet is  higher.

 

But I need to  hack away at the back cab hole in a great long section to feed it in via a higher point. And also to swivel it on the Mickey hole point.

 

Is these 2 jigs the right idea.. ? this would be simplest in terms of 1 less elbow. But Im not familiar with how these grey bits are meant to fit together. Can you just whip the straight sections out of the elbows.. & reuse the elbow, or are they fixed in to each other with a layer of glue-?

[Onoff]

10 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

1st on the job plumb Q. Trying to get grey pipe to reach white trap U section.. & not surprising can't. I can see what needs doing, which is swivel the whole grey pipe from Mickey hole  around a 1/4 turn so the entrance point  to the cabinet is  higher.

 

But I need to  hack away at the back cab hole in a great long section to feed it in via a higher point. And also to swivel it on the Mickey hole point.

 

Is these 2 jigs the right idea.. ? this would be simplest in terms of 1 less elbow. But Im not familiar with how these grey bits are meant to fit together. Can you just whip the straight sections out of the elbows.. & reuse the elbow, or are they fixed in to each other with a layer of glue-?

 

Can you repost the photo in question to save everyone having to look back two or three pages?

[newhome]

To do that ZooT look at the bit where you would normally upload a photo. Just below that there is ‘insert other media’ hit that and then ‘insert existing attachment’ then you get every photo you ever posted and page thru until you get to the right one. 

[newhome]

A few pics to recap but make a mental note of how to reselect a photo you have posted previously. 

 

 

 

 

[PeterW]

All grey push fit 

 

Pull apart, cut to length and chamfer outside edges. Bit of liquid soap on the seal and push back together. As long as it always goes downhill it doesn’t matter what it looks like. 

[zoothorn]

Aha thanks newhome! ok looking at the 3rd pic. What I'm thinking (the simplest way to get me from pipe end here, to my new white trap section) is to swivel the whole shebang 1/8th of a turn, @ the Mickey hole point elbow. It does move a bit here.

 

What I'm trying top establish, is whether such a swivel is normal.. or a no-no due to there having been glue or something in with the friction fit of 2 normal grey sections into each other.

 

Here is all I need it to get to, the orange O. But do I force it up, or swivel it on Micky point.. or no-no to both ideas?

 

 

[PeterW]

Slack the nuts off, swing it to the left and then use one elbow to come vertical and the next horizontal and it should all push together. 

[zoothorn]

Ive tried all that Peter, but Ive come to this ^ conclusion as to the only way I can join these 2.

 

When you say slack the nuts off, you mean the whites..? there don't appear to be any on the grey bits, orare there-?

[newhome]

White nuts need to slack off. I've done this job in my house. Took me fecking hours to get it all together so I feel your pain . Someone else would have done it in seconds I'm sure! 

 

 

[zoothorn]

But I have slacked the nuts off. If I swing the whole white shebang round a bit.. the no ammount of 90* elbows will be able to span the angle. Plus its only about 3" higher that the pipe its gotta meet.. an elbow + a section of pipe, is far more than 3".. so won't meet.

 

If I swing the whole thing round 90* the grey is facing twds me/ then when I tip the tub out in the sink, & then go 'downstairs'.. it all hits me in the face.

[PeterW]

How many grey elbows have you got ..?

[PeterW]

You can do that with 2 elbows btw

 

first is out of wall, facing 30 degrees or so up. 

 

Then swing the trap so it’s parallel to cupboard and then turn the outlet to face the wall. Second elbow into the trap socket facing 30 degrees down, join with a pipe. 

[zoothorn]

Right! see it now.. ok just need 1m of grey pipe/ tmrw > can do this now. Is in the way of the copper plumbing but hey- that's a major step fwd.

 

Ok on to prepping the hep20 bits. 1st I need to show you the inside of the two ISO valves, facing me this end. They obviously work fine, & water getting through with no probs too. So if it ain't broke...?

[PeterW]

Limescale heaven..!!

 

just a short length of copper, olive and nut and then move everything onto Hep2O..

[zoothorn]

What just leave these you mean/ as before > connect onto them?