Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Use the screws to hold the boards in place whilst the foam sticking the boards on sets but only put them in as far as to nip the board and not damage the edge. If you're deft at it you can run a very thin bead of foam up the batten to glue the eps to the the batten. Either take the screws out after or very carefully pilot the pb and countersink the face so you can put a screw in without it breaking the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Right thanks onoff. It says on the clean can to undo foam can > clean > put back on foam can. So after I use the foam on a side.. I leave the can upright, for however long I want?? so have i ruined both the can & gun then doing this?? please no.. I cant cope with this ontop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Just now, zoothorn said: Right thanks onoff. It says on the clean can to undo foam can > clean > put back on foam can. So after I use the foam on a side.. I leave the can upright, for however long I want?? so have i ruined both the can & gun then doing this?? please no.. I cant cope with this ontop. After you have used the gun then yes you can leave it upright can still screwed on, with the base of the can on the floor for however long you want within reason. Does the gun still work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 If you undid it, cleaned it and put it back on I doubt you’ve ruined it. Does it still squirt out ok from the gun? If so it’s surely all good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Cleaning these guns doesn't mean a quick squirt through. Pretty sure the instructions say to put the gun cleaner on and leave for X minutes before blasting through finally. This is more for if you want to thoroughly clean the gun and store without a can on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Yup it said 15mins leave. then tho to put back on can..still confused. You have to undo the can to put the clean can on. then foam can back on. which is what i did. Anyway was gunged up badly.. but put more cleaner thru & shifted it. maybe I left more than 15mins.. godknows. I'll leave this foam can on for now as is then! it aint comin off! Right Ive cut the panels again, about 10x faster than y'day by scoring thru the eps.. had no idea it was same procedure as std PB. Im very wary about the next fixing bit again. I think I'll try one-by-one, 3 others just supporting or the foam may set too fast.1st the top, but I must find out what the cure time is for it 1st unless Ive missed the info. No screws.. i'm going to guage if fixed firm enough/ may attempt 2 at main points/ araldite the dmg edge. christ on a bike not looking fwd to 1st again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 But I can't do that.. as it'll take 2 days to do the job as I'll have to leave each section in place for ~1/2 a day to fix in. Ive no idea how to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) You surely don't mean Araldite as in 2-part glue? I would do the bottom bit, the sill first. Easier to work on and gives you a level base. Damp both faces with a plant sprayer. Put some lines of foam on the mortar bed, lay the cut sill bit on and weight down checking for near level. Leave a couple of hours, check it's firm and fit the next bit. Edited August 10, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Yes I do mean araldite. If I use screws even 8 in total, the edges will be damaged (or the screws will be 'out'/ I can't have that) so need repairing/ strongest stuff surely. Ok that's a plan to do the sill 1st of course. Im onto the soudal site but can't find the damn product or cure time! argh!! driving me fkn nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Yes I do mean araldite. If I use screws even 8 in total, the edges will be damaged (or the screws will be 'out'/ I can't have that) so need repairing/ strongest stuff surely. Ok that's a plan to do the sill 1st of course. Im onto the soudal site but can't find the damn product or cure time! argh!! driving me fkn nuts. F**k me! How many times? There is no set cure time! I've told you, Peter's told you. It's dependent on temperature, humidity, volume of foam! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Its 19*C/ average temp, humidity, average size bead say. So.. what's the cure time? 10mins? 10 hrs? a day? Im no further on am I?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 So I have to guess-?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Just now, zoothorn said: So I have to guess-?? No. You just wait for a couple of hours and see if it's set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 2 hours? now you're teasing me. you've seen that on your secret soudal chart you won't show me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ok some success, but look same prob remains. 2nd pic shows the -max possible- a screw can be brought down before the PB edge gives. Its 1-2mm proud of the surface. 3rd pic/ ideal screw position (if not slightly shy being a mite protruding RHS).. & edge breaks: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 I told you earlier to just use the screw to just nip the board not break it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 But onoff they need to be -at- or ideally to be safe a fraction -below- the surface, for skimming over or painting once filled. Surely. Both thwese options cannot be done with mine, as is. All yours are actually below, if not countersunk a good 1mm (I can see) as they must need to be. Or.. are you are saying, you're meant to leave them proud-? eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 12 minutes ago, Onoff said: I told you earlier to just use the screw to just nip the board not break it! When.. well I missed this. I'm really confused again. Please can you tell me what you did to your reveal, after this PB work.. IE did you skim, or fill here n there & paint, or tile all inside area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pudding Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) Do you actually need screws? This foam will easily hold on those boards, no screws required at all. (apologies if this is just adding more complexity ) Edited August 10, 2018 by pudding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Look sorry please just remind me here.. Ive just used the foam/ gun, its left upright. I'll next be using in say 1-1/2 hrs. What do I do now- take off & use cleaner/ clean the gun, or just the tip? or do nothing? (won't the stuff set inside the gun within this hour if so-?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, zoothorn said: When.. well I missed this. I'm really confused again. Please can you tell me what you did to your reveal, after this PB work.. IE did you skim, or fill here n there & paint, or tile all inside area? I'm tiling it as I said in I think post #782... So.....as I said all of 3 hours ago... "Use the screws to hold the boards in place whilst the foam sticking the boards on sets but only put them in as far as to nip the board and not damage the edge. If you're deft at it you can run a very thin bead of foam up the batten to glue the eps to the the batten. Either take the screws out after or very carefully pilot the pb and countersink the face so you can put a screw in without it breaking the edge". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 4 minutes ago, pudding said: Do you actually need screws? This foam will easily hold on those boards, no screws required at all. (apologies if this is just adding more complexity ) Tbh I'm only using them as pins to hold/ will have to remove all.. because surely cannot be left in protruding, as they all are (bar that ^ one I put in flush just to photo/ to show how this breaks the board) or it'll ruin any finish, even a skim surely is barely a mm.. Someone help me out here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Look sorry please just remind me here.. Ive just used the foam/ gun, its left upright. I'll next be using in say 1-1/2 hrs. What do I do now- take off & use cleaner/ clean the gun, or just the tip? or do nothing? (won't the stuff set inside the gun within this hour if so-?) Now you're taking the pi $$. Seriously you have got to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ref finishing the reveal. You'll have presumably the sides and top to do if you're refitting a wood sill. (Only paper I have to hand is the Metro and a Boris Johnson cartoon). Anyway, this thread can't get any more mental: As above you could use plaster beads. Depending on whether you've a tapered edge meeting a square edge, a tapered meeting a taper or two square edges meeting you either fill level or fill and feather it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 No.. I'm not onoff. I just can't remember what you said, & I need help right now as Im panicing its setting in the damn thing rather than trawling pages to find what you said back X. Just help me out here, please Im just not used to this new xyz stuff. I did not get that reply 2 hrs ago.. no notification at all, or Id have seen it/ I'm keeping tabs on every reply made.. but obvioiusly I have to remind myself to reload the page to get them all. Ive said this before. I still cannot understand how you're meant to use these screws/ ins PB, if doing anything but tiling.. not everyone tiles reveals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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