zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 What I meant was this Peter.. actually I winged it ok (tho taken me all week just this sill, reveal lining & pB.. alot trickier than other window): think its worth me pB'ing along btm gap around, even if hidden by cabinets-? I can cover it with skirting, where the cabinets end & its 4 ft wide of full wall top to btm, as you walk in. maybe.. is that feasable or a lazyass shortcut? I can only think thin strips of pB will break, a fiddly job which will drive me to insanity tbh! unless a neccessity. Next pB5 should be ok.. then its the bits between to meet (between the batten middle of window/ where the complicated pipework is).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Spot on that !! Well done ! small bits of board will be fine if they are onto a solid surface such as insulation. No Nails or similar here to stick them back to the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 For some reason Ive put batten all along the btm/ metting the floor. No idea why if I was thinking leave this bit anyway.. so you say -do- put pB strips on these gaps-? I'm nearing the pB end.. thank gawd, a heck of a trial alone I can tell you @ 25kg's each in a small kitchen. As you can see its hardly a neat job on this window cutout, other is way better, is this acceptable/ can I tidy these bad bits up? Im still not exactly sure what i'm applying onto the pB yet.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Some bits untidy.. edges of reveal c/o (driving me starkers/ lost patience), & a bulge out on one side reveal section (had to do in 4 bits due to poor mistake), but pleased with this corner join gap of only 6mm max, gaps to ceiling mostly good too, & the socket's useable altho its slightly countersunk by 3mm's 'behind' the pB (I'm hoping this is ok).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Back off the face plate and use longer screws and a finger plate if only 10mm or so...? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X2-WHITE-FINGER-PLATE-LIGHT-SWITCH-SOCKET-WALL-BACK-COVER-SURROUND-PACK-OF-2/292677770014? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Is it not ok as is then onoff-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 40 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Is it not ok as is then onoff-? If you're happy with it then leave it. Imo it'll look a bit fugly and unusual for the sake of a quid, and hard to get the pb cutout to look neat. Saying that it's in a weird place anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 I was thinking of the work needed rather than only a few quid.. I'd need to undo all the wires etc, unless I'm mistaken? I get the idea tho, & would look neat (tho it is on the cock quite a bit as it is mind you). Another job maybe last on list then. Tmrw I need to go get the Hep20 bits. So with the iso valves I've got (I assume I'm leaving these as is ) can you remind me now: its 6x elbows, 1x section of 15mm pipe, & 2x connector end things for the flexi hex pipe to fit onto.. what are these called- sorry did I ask this before? I'm hopefully going all guns to get the sink in this wknd if the pB behind can be left as is.. is this the idea, I mean below the worktop line-? thanks, zootH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Did you buy the new worktop? Have you got the tools to cut the worktop for the sink? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 No wiring required ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 15 minutes ago, newhome said: No wiring required ... Showing that even somebody who vagazzles their nails can do it! NO WIRES NEED REMOVING! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 1 minute ago, Onoff said: vagazzles their nails Vagazzles!! PMSL!! Very TOWIE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 1 minute ago, newhome said: Vagazzles!! PMSL!! Very TOWIE! Catch Blue Mountain State on Netflix if you can. (Well if your sense of humour is at about the level of the American Pie films, or slightly below...like mine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 (edited) Hey that's great.. diedre show me how now now! (or brian- we must not assume, nowadays, its WRONG to.. m'kay?) [vagazzle her nails! what if it is brian though, co*kjazzle? I'm so confused already] yes worktop, jigsaw, holesaw things ready. But can I leave the pB as is under the worktop line? or does it need treating/ sealing or something 1st..? Edited August 31, 2018 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 If you do leave it without pb under there it's up to you but at least try and foam all those "2mm" gaps. Of course pb will provide: - another layer against draughts remember why you started this! - another line of defence against the Mickey Mouse Club Not forgetting we''ll know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 No I mean it'll be pB'd under the worktop line (right the way down to the last tricky pipes bit I'm leaving a 40cm sQ area free of pB here).. but was wondering if the pB below this line needs treating/ applying with something I've no idea.. or can be left as is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 44 minutes ago, zoothorn said: No I mean it'll be pB'd under the worktop line (right the way down to the last tricky pipes bit I'm leaving a 40cm sQ area free of pB here).. but was wondering if the pB below this line needs treating/ applying with something I've no idea.. or can be left as is? Dunno, I'd prime and paint with a washable paint.... Rollered on neat PVA maybe? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 But why prime & paint below the worktop line, if this area's unseen behind the cabinets-? is there any reason to? my point being.. I've never used pB before you see. I don't know what the normal way is with it, once Ive got to the state I have it in. I realise there's some sort of pink plaster stuff to do, which is why ive bought a huage bag of it, but Ive no idea where this will be used, whether it needs a primer before, or not, whether it needs something applying to it in areas that are always to be unseen. Like behind the cabinets. I have no idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 This might be a crap idea but can you insulate under the kitchen cupboards? As in put Rockwool or similar underneath them? @Onoff? @PeterW? I know you can't insulate elsewhere on that concrete floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 I can certainly grip glue some C'tex sheets under before I put the facia strips on.. not a bad idea that. Ive totally overdone it with 2-1/2 sheets left over. And a whole sheet of pB. Muppet I think I didn't subtract the window area, or included it to be extra safe so I didnt run out. but newhome what do I do with the 'raw' pB that'll be behind the cabinets below the worktop line?? apply someting to it? leave it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Just leave the PB - you’ll never see it ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 Ok that's what I thought likely would be ok- good. Ok last pB bits done this AM.. then onto the next stage. I think this might have to be the outside socket, from the 2G socket, so I can go back & complete pB3.. as much as I'm resigned to it! Will this negate this 2G into a 1G going backwards/ outside? or split into a new 1G inside or something? (or an addition, that keeps the 2G inside-?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 5 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Ok that's what I thought likely would be ok- good. Ok last pB bits done this AM.. then onto the next stage. I think this might have to be the outside socket, from the 2G socket, so I can go back & complete pB3.. as much as I'm resigned to it! Will this negate this 2G into a 1G going backwards/ outside? or split into a new 1G inside or something? (or an addition, that keeps the 2G inside-?) Going to need a picture as that doesn’t make sense ..!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 I could only take a pic of my 2G socket, as it is Peter. Onoff's idea was to drill a hole outside, behind, connecting an outside socket from this 2G socket (the 2G I was going to have to extend fwd). If this Ext socket addition is done, does it mean the prior 2G socket is now n/a? (& so no front plate on or thru the pB).. or now its a 1G (as the 2nd is now taken up by the added external).. or maybe it can remain as it was, as a 2G (with a "3rd" addition going out thru the wall behind it). ?? There's no other way I can explain my Q. A pic of a sketch would only complicate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 All he means is drill through the wall from behind it and connect to the terminals - the 2G socket remains in place inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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