MikeGrahamT21 Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Thats an aircrete trench block, will be 7N at most. Definitely wrong as a pier for the house to sit on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 16 hours ago, Ed_MK said: Am i being anal here or are they a little "under-engineered" ..I mean these trench blocks are really crumbly too In defense of the building trade, might those crumble blocks just be positioned markers to help the beam layers avoid obstructing the timber frame supports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 On 25/05/2018 at 11:37, epsilonGreedy said: In defense of the building trade, might those crumble blocks just be positioned markers to help the beam layers avoid obstructing the timber frame supports. to be fair , i asked that and they said they "always did them like this" and they are the main contractor for Potton ..I mean when you have 4 guys all telling you its's fine ...you feel a bit stupid pushing the point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 8 hours ago, Ed_MK said: to be fair , i asked that and they said they "always did them like this" and they are the main contractor for Potton ..I mean when you have 4 guys all telling you its's fine ...you feel a bit stupid pushing the point Playing a dangerous game if you don't stick to the spec to the letter. Its not that important though, it's only holding your house up after all . Very easy to rectify after too. . Get them to change it now. Simples. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Well after 2 days (BH weekend as well!) of emails bouncing back and forth..between Architects, Frame Erector and groundworker ....they finally gave in and said ..No a SINGLE 3.6N Aircrete block is NOT considered a suitable Padstone. First they said they would "double up" (2 x 3.6 side by side) and then we fought back and they said they COULD make shutters and fill with concrete, handmix style ....and finally said OK, we can have precast padstones ....if we INSIST ?!?! :O But this came with a warning ....I have been told this will FURTHER delay the frame erection as our SLOT will slip and that they believe that a precast padstone cannot be "drilled" ... anyone know if that is true ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 On 25/05/2018 at 11:17, MikeGrahamT21 said: Thats an aircrete trench block, will be 7N at most. Definitely wrong as a pier for the house to sit on I was told it was 7.2 .... but i found the Delivery Note stuffed into the plastic pallet wrap ...they are Thermalite 3.6 300mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Problem is ...this has got me worrying about all sorts of stuff (see pics) 1. Wont the beams need to be cut down for the chimney bottom course ? 2. should the waste pipe be in a "bed" of something 3. All the beams are used ..but there appears to be large "gaps" is this normal 4. Along the edges seem to be "open" ...Should these have kickers in? and if so won't it be hard to slide them in later ....regarding mortar ? 5. some edges look uneven and blocks stick out more than others ...I was told the excess could be "cut off later" but wont that just loosen them again 6. I know its all under the ground ...but do you think that finish is a little ....scabby ..or am i being picky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 3 hours ago, Ed_MK said: they believe that a precast padstone cannot be "drilled" ... anyone know if that is true ? Nope ... drilled a few in my time as some BCOs insist on steels being retained at least at one end. I’m assuming they need something like an M12 stud in them ..? Get the bolt pattern and drill with a 6mm new SDS bit and then check it’s correct before drilling out to 13mm. 10 mins tops to do 4 in a block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 14 hours ago, Ed_MK said: I was told it was 7.2 .... but i found the Delivery Note stuffed into the plastic pallet wrap ...they are Thermalite 3.6 300mm Wow, glad you noticed all that and got it sorted, id say a near miss?!?! Are you sure whoever is putting your house up is up to the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 In pic 5 you'd have thought the outer open end of those runs would have started off with a beam. Have they worked to a B&B design from an SE ? Good to hear they admitted the pads were a load of bollocks. Drilling them will take minutes. Why exactly are they talking so much BS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Oh and yes, the soil runs should have support at predetermined intervals, so has you BCO inspected and passed these yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 48 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: In pic 5 you'd have thought the outer open end of those runs would have started off with a beam. Have they worked to a B&B design from an SE ? Good to hear they admitted the pads were a load of bollocks. Drilling them will take minutes. Why exactly are they talking so much BS? I think its a question of NEW guys on the job here. Hard working lads ..all of them ...but when i asked questions they didnt seem sure. I presume they thought that the same blocks for the exterior would suffice for the beam supports... ...until pointed out. The main man does know his stuff ...but it seems they have a several jobs on the go and so cannot devote as much time as they would like, I think thats the truth in this. I have just had a mini-meeting with the foundation company and the frame company on site and we have decided that rather than padstones, they are going to shutter up the areas and fill them to beam top with C30 Concrete ...should be faster and we should then be able to start frame erecting on Monday (fingers crossed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 52 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Oh and yes, the soil runs should have support at predetermined intervals, so has you BCO inspected and passed these yet? What do you mean by "soil runs" Nick ? The BCO is due to come out tomorrow ...EEK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 The horizontal runs of 110mm underground ( orange ) pipework. How far are they between supported pads / junctions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Well there is one small on from the downstairs toilet ...1m and there are 2 long one s...one for the kitchen waste and gutter and one from the SVP i suppose these are over 6-7m last i seen they were covering them with pea gravel under the beam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Its the dotted lines they are putting in Nick Jusrt so you know for size ..the house is 12m "wide" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Always used metal strap under Neath the pipe and pulled up over the beam and nailed into the blocks. They should be supported by stone and gravel that was used to backfill the founds. The metal straps are a just incase what has been backfilled sinks. Never have them sitting on bricks. Seen a lot of builders bury all the crap of the day in them and then cover it over with a sprinkle of stone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Galvanised-Steel-Banding-Strapping-Perforated-Metal-20mmx10m-Building-DIY-Garden/2147314538?iid=173297092125 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 1 hour ago, Ed_MK said: shutter up the areas and fill them to beam top with C30 Concrete That is a pretty big cold bridge and it will take 28 days to get to full strength anyway. Are they ordering in the concrete otherwise it needs gauging properly to get a C30 spec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 I would be very keen on something so important, to be buying in a certified product, rather than crossing my fingers with poured concrete, I mean what if a few air bubbles get stuck in it?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Well they mixed it on site ...It looked decent enough ...although it could have been "greyer" ...but they got them in ...either way its got to be an improvement on 3.6Nm Aircrete's ..? Just the kickers to go on now ..and the frame should come Monday ... Regarding hardening ...I think it will be at least 7 days before it actually carries any moderate weight and as the Frame takes 4 weeks to erect ..it should be topping out at the finish. I appreciate its a compromise ...but we are up against it time wise ...If the erectors dont start then we could be put back a month or more as another job will be shunted ....and we are already a month behind original date regarding the bridging ...I think the plan is to finish it off tomorrow to the top of the beam, not sure if there will be any damp-course on/in that ....but i suspect there should be somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divorcingjack Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 Back to the original thread.. we’re in Scotland and have had several toppy quotes for laying 5400 (120 sqm approx) reclaimed bricks with lime mortar and a bag rubbed finish. One at £60/sqm and one at £6000 for the job. Inc materials, although not bricks. Bricklayers are are not easy to come by. Good bricklayers even more so. I hope you get your founds sorted ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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