Pocster Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 13 minutes ago, mvincentd said: Ok, I’m getting you , so the Newton dimples lap over the top of that concrete ceiling but don’t reach to bond with the edpm, so while water running down the stone wall should be stopped by your (work in progress) flashing, dampness in the stone wall can reach down to behind the dimples....including on top of the dimples that are lapped onto the ceiling, so if it tracked far enough to exceed the lap of the dimples it would be onto the top of the ceiling. Thats how I’m reading it if there are no further damp proof membranes...is that right. In that case it looks to me like technically you are vulnerable, but realistically, it might never happen. Whether you should be concerned I’m not experienced/qualified to say. Based on what I understand of this though, If it were my build I’d drop a few quid on a surveyor who specialises in remediation of damp problems having a look, or get your building control guy (if he’s the helpful type) to apply his brain to it. Regarding “can make flush with final floor”...I believe your average walk on skylights that APPEAR flush only do so because the paving surrounding them is on pedestals raising them above a clear drainage floor that is somewhat below the top of the upstand on which the skylight is sitting. If your slabs are sitting on a mortar bed right up to edge of skylight I think you’ll have a problem. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 I think you’ve got it right . A poor drawing to explain . Remember you can park on this so can’t have a ‘suspended ‘ floor for the skylights . Whats the issue with them ? I thought we were after a solid non permeable concrete floor ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) Skylight lip is about 40mm pavers 50 - 80mm so pavers mortar bed below skylight . skylight frame itself is like shoe box lid Edited June 8, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 Another question..... the sky lights. How are these sealed to prevent water getting in, if you have a concrete / mortar build up and then slabs then your looking at a non permeable surround around the windows, is this going to mean water will pool around them ? Or are they fully bonded in ? Or am I looking at it wrong and they are higher than the finish slab level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 9 minutes ago, Cpd said: Another question..... the sky lights. How are these sealed to prevent water getting in, if you have a concrete / mortar build up and then slabs then your looking at a non permeable surround around the windows, is this going to mean water will pool around them ? Or are they fully bonded in ? Or am I looking at it wrong and they are higher than the finish slab level. They will be mounted on a 2 degree slant for run off . Fully bonded units . As I said think of a shoe box lid over its box that’s how they sit on my upstands. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 I wanted my roof skylights flat flush like you...my reason being issues over max height of my house, which with a standard 150mm upstand was represented by my skylights. The only thing on offer was a 'false' deck on pedestals 150mm higher than the membraned surface, so bringing the roof up rather than the skylight down...useless. Reason for not bringing skylight down as illustrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 (edited) 57 minutes ago, mvincentd said: I wanted my roof skylights flat flush like you...my reason being issues over max height of my house, which with a standard 150mm upstand was represented by my skylights. The only thing on offer was a 'false' deck on pedestals 150mm higher than the membraned surface, so bringing the roof up rather than the skylight down...useless. Reason for not bringing skylight down as illustrated. Exactly! So mine will be like the first diagram. We are going with the 80mm pavers. The skylight 'lip' (i.e. bit that overhangs the upstand) is 40mm. So I will have a good 40mm clearance from 'slab' . Pavers sat flush with skylights but slab/mortar bed some 80mm lower than finish level and therefore some 40mm lower than edge of skylight. I really must learn to draw!!!! Edited June 9, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moira Niedzwiecka Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 On 07/06/2018 at 17:30, pocster said: "3) How do you stick EDPM to EDPM?. I'm fairly sure the guys just stuck primer on both parts ; let it go tack then rollered them. But videos seem to suggest otherwise. Advice welcome here!" Right!, splice tape. There are 2 points at which they have joined on the flat bit. 99% they didn't use splice tape. They just stuck a piece over ( will get a photo tomorrow) . So I will cut a square and 'splice' a proper section on top for peace of mind! Then splice tape along base of wall and EDPM up! I used a double sided bitumen tape to stick our DPM to the DPC. Make was Novia. Worked a treat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Not the best quality but should be good fir grinding sharp edges if required. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 Just an update Finally got to the point where the block paving meets the wall and requires flashing First piece almost done ( yeah I know the rubber goes under it ? ) I’m about 10mm above my paving so assume I should fill that gap . What with ? Just a strip of black fascia? Or similar ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 Yes I think a plastic trim would be good as otherwise the rubber is quite vulnerable to damage. I take it you are planning to remove the flashing, clean the rubber, trim to size, stick to the wall, install flashing with sealant, adhesive fix 50mm black plastic / aluminium strip to close gap to paving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 1 hour ago, Mr Punter said: Yes I think a plastic trim would be good as otherwise the rubber is quite vulnerable to damage. I take it you are planning to remove the flashing, clean the rubber, trim to size, stick to the wall, install flashing with sealant, adhesive fix 50mm black plastic / aluminium strip to close gap to paving. Clean rubber trim to size ct1 it to stone work Some kind of trim at base ( between flashing and pavers ) . Can’t seem to find anything suitable online ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 (edited) Spoke too soon ? This maybe ? https://www.mkmplastics.com/shop/plastic-flat-strips/plastic-flat-strip-rigid Though not sure I really need 75m ! Edited October 7, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 Phase 1 complete ! Need to ct1 across flashing joints Cement under flashing to cover exposed rubber Probably smear ct1 over concrete at the edges Stick black plastic trim over flashing down to pavers Ct1 in cut flashing slot in stone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 You did well to cut a straight line in that stonework. Must have been a nasty job to do, especially so low down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 58 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: You did well to cut a straight line in that stonework. Must have been a nasty job to do, especially so low down. I followed the biggest straightest thing I have ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 Ah bullocks ! Still leaks Flashing installed but not ct1 on it . So some water could get in there but not that much . Think I’m going to cover that wall and flashing with a sheet - so when it rains will hopefully prove flashing is the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 As usual blockwork in upstand bone dry until about half way down - exactly where rubber is ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 Covered most of the wall Just got to wait for rain - shouldn’t be long ! ? If the leaks the same will cover the end wall . Trying to at least narrow down the possible problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 The blockwork nicely frames and sets of the dungeon window! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 18 minutes ago, Onoff said: The blockwork nicely frames and sets of the dungeon window! Yes. But I don't want a leaky dungeon!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 14 minutes ago, pocster said: Yes. But I don't want a leaky dungeon!!!! Would you even notice, what with all the watersports etc? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 15 minutes ago, Onoff said: Would you even notice, what with all the watersports etc? Those are paid for extras ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADLIan Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Bit late to comment on this but Google ' buried roofs' or 'podium roofs' and you'll see how difficult these are to design and really need specialist input especially with your flush roof lights. Need robust design and robust materials as remedial works are difficult (=expensive). Have you arranged for drainage of rainwater from directly above the EPDM membrane? Without this I imagine the roof will be plagued with problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 (edited) 24 minutes ago, ADLIan said: Bit late to comment on this but Google ' buried roofs' or 'podium roofs' and you'll see how difficult these are to design and really need specialist input especially with your flush roof lights. Need robust design and robust materials as remedial works are difficult (=expensive). Have you arranged for drainage of rainwater from directly above the EPDM membrane? Without this I imagine the roof will be plagued with problems. Not sure exactly what you mean by drainage above edpm . The block paving runs into drainage channel . The edpm has 35mm on concrete on it . Not to mention my concrete to bed the pavers . I did a water test ( when just edpm was down ) - flooded the site ( but not going over the edges I.e where flashing would be ) - no leaks ; hence did the pour . Edited October 16, 2018 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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