ToughButterCup Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 The angle of our rafter line doesn't match the angle of the built wall. At one end, the bottom of the rafter is an inch or so higher than the wall, like this and at the other end, the 'fit' is a bit better: but not ideal. My question is; how best do I fill in the gap ? Why did this happen? My theory is that the steels company installed them with what some might call a light-hearted approach to planned dimensions. That meant the pitch of the walls and the steels does not match. An appropriate amount has been deducted from their invoice. Not so long ago I would have paid in full without question. Not any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Am I looking at the top of a gable wall? Why not just add some bricks or flat blocks on top where there is a gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 You could put insulation against the inside of the rafter and then back fill the rest with motar/concrete and smooth it of level with the top of the rafters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 7 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: Am I looking at the top of a gable wall? Why not just add some bricks or flat blocks on top where there is a gap? Yes, it's a gable. Thanks both @Declan52 and @Mr Punter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 All them offcuts that you have lying around will be ideal. Don't really want to add full blocks as you want to maintain the insulation of that edge so by adding the insulation and some concrete you will be mirroring what's below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 19 minutes ago, Declan52 said: All them offcuts that you have lying around will be ideal. [...] It is indeed an ill wind that blows nobody any good at all.... I saved these from the wall collapse So, I'll just stick them together and foam them into place then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Yeah will be a bit of a jigsaw puzzle but will use them up. Then a bit of motar/concrete to keep them permanently there until you get felt/OSB on the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 3 hours ago, recoveringacademic said: The angle of our rafter line doesn't match the angle of the built wall. At one end, the bottom of the rafter is an inch or so higher than the wall, like this and at the other end, the 'fit' is a bit better: but not ideal. My question is; how best do I fill in the gap ? Why did this happen? My theory is that the steels company installed them with what some might call a light-hearted approach to planned dimensions. That meant the pitch of the walls and the steels does not match. An appropriate amount has been deducted from their invoice. Not so long ago I would have paid in full without question. Not any more. I would simply build it up between the two joists with a solid concrete block A simple way would be to pack it with insulation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 How about.... 1) Lay a sheet of PIR in there. 2) Cut some square holes in it similar to your blocks. 3) Fill square holes with concrete. No idea of any benefit just sounds like fun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 1 hour ago, nod said: I would simply build it up between the two joists with a solid concrete block A simple way would be to pack it with insulation Well, I've some spare blocks left over. I could cut them to fit. Drill a couple of holes in the concrete that exists and then pop some rebar in there (so it's sticking up vertically). Then fit the blocks and concrete as normal. A fair bit of work there, though..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Don't bother with the blocks. Introducing an unnecessary cold bridge. Will you even see the gap below or are you having a service cavity or counter battens internally? You may not even have a gap after them. I'd do what Declan suggested and go with insulation offcuts, bit of foam and some mortar to hold them until the felt is on. I'd be sure to spend as little money and time on it as possible. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 On 20/04/2018 at 13:34, recoveringacademic said: Well, I've some spare blocks left over. I could cut them to fit. Drill a couple of holes in the concrete that exists and then pop some rebar in there (so it's sticking up vertically). Then fit the blocks and concrete as normal. A fair bit of work there, though..... Yes Ian its a pain when you make extra work for yourself But really annoying when it is caused by others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 Thought I'd bump this thread to show progress (only interesting in terms of how to solve this problem with Durisol ) and to ask a question: Do I need to put a bit of underboarding under the in-fill pieces of Durisol? This is progress so far.... (have a look at the original image of the same area above) ( the top of the block is now 28mm or so below the top of the rafter verge so I can cap it off with 25mm of PIR and then felt and batten) What interest me though is this gap.... The wall will be clad: the cladding sits on 50 by 50 battens and then there will be some standard cladding outside that: in other words the gap will disappear. But the gap won't be sealed (I suppose), so wouldn't it be a good idea to put some underboarding on top of the wall that's already built, but under the in-fill that I am about to fix into place with concrete? Once that's in there, that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Is that all outside of your airtight layer? If so, EPS / foam ( or use PIR offcuts ) and move on. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 I would have just gone mineral wool and not faff around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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