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How to avoid boxy fascia/soffit


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Hi there

 

Can anyone tell me why fasica/soffit are so boxy, and stick out so far.

 

Is there some sort of minimm distance that a gutter must be from the wall, is there a minimum overhand of roof structure at both gable and non gable ends?

 

I really like the look of older Scottish properties that come without this chunky addon, but is there a smart way to avoid this detailing

 

is there some solution that is minimalist, sleek and weatherproof?

 

I've looked at Kytun dry verge but can this be attached to the wall or a batten, or does it need an overhand and fasica/soffit box from the 90's

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It is just style.

 

Ours are not like that.  Just lengths of 6 by 2 regularised timber, that will eventually be clad in an aluminium profile (so painting or varnishing wood is not a regular chore)

 

This is typical of how older cottages were built for instance.

 

It did create an "issue" with the downpipes. The standard bends were too bulky and I had to trim them a bit to get a small enough offset

 

fascia.thumb.jpg.82262e96a6930ff5ae038a46cfc4c388.jpg

 

 

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3 hours ago, Tin Soldier said:

is there a minimum overhand of roof structure at both gable and non gable ends?

 

I really like the look of older Scottish properties that come without this chunky addon, but is there a smart way to avoid this detailing

 

I was told by an architect that, particularly on the west coast they (as in the days before architects were commonly used) used to avoid overhanging roofs because the winds there put a lot more uplift force on the roof structure (if it's overhanging).

 

Now with more non-stone materials used externally there is a greater benefit from having an overhanging roof structure providing a bit of additional protection.

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No 4 by 2 on the gables.

 

It didn't quite go to  plan as I detailed that before I got the tile end caps, and when I put it all together, it left a sliver of wood exposed, and in keeping with my low maintenance goal I did not want that, so I fitted a plastic strip before the tile end caps went on to both protect the wood from getting wet and create a drip bead (much as there will be a drip bead when I add the aluminium cladding to the fascia)

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the surface mounted system works great IF your masonry and plastering are spot on if not it can look bad and need a lot of work to make it look right. you can set your fascia wherever you like really . you don't always need a soffit and an exposed rafter tail looks great in some instances but the carpentry needs to be spot on again. you don't need to cut the offsets down for your down pipe just pull the down pipe  to one side or the other when using wall mounted fascia.  Unless you you don't like that detail but I think it looks fine. hope that helps.

 

You'll see a lot of exposed rafter tails on Oak frame buildings if you google that.   Big soffit overhangs are useful  to protect cladding  and joinery in some cases

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