CC45 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Hi all, Been getting a few prices from my local BM Eastbrook volente 900 x 900 - £104 excl Kartell kt35 900 x 900 - £66. Both need waste on top. No idea how to guage quality except based on price (dubious I know) - has anyone heard of either of these? Would you buy online? Any recommendations? Thanks Cc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Coram-Showers-YD903WHI-3-Tiling-Upstand/dp/B00C2IEWKC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518805286&sr=8-5&keywords=coram+shower+tray+900+x+900 i put one of these in last year and its been great. However its the first shower tray i have ever installed so no comparison. Sure others will have some solid recommendations. I went with this because i wanted one with good up-stands as i was using shower wall board to come down over the upstands. Worked for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 1 hour ago, CC45 said: Hi all, Been getting a few prices from my local BM Eastbrook volente 900 x 900 - £104 excl Kartell kt35 900 x 900 - £66. Both need waste on top. No idea how to guage quality except based on price (dubious I know) - has anyone heard of either of these? Would you buy online? Any recommendations? Thanks Cc The shower trays seem much of muchness With some giving a free waste I got a free waste with all three of mine and replaced the with mc alpine wastes I’m not a plumber but I could see that the free ones looked flimsy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 I think Im going for the £100 one & a decent trap. At the end its £40 & its not a game changing amount + I need to make the decision and move on to the next decision! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 39 minutes ago, CC45 said: I think Im going for the £100 one & a decent trap. At the end its £40 & its not a game changing amount + I need to make the decision and move on to the next decision! Stone resin is the one to go for. As long as its not composite coating / foam centre then your good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Is a stone resin like mix possible to DIY to make a flexible but strong shower base? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 1 minute ago, Onoff said: Is a stone resin like mix possible to DIY to make a flexible but strong shower base? Im very suspicious of where this is going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Im very suspicious of where this is going Moi? I'm favouring this but with that flash quick dry cement you mentioned: 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³ Edited February 17, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Just to do the shower tray fall section ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just to do the shower tray fall section ? Yep. Needs to be as strong a f*** imo. The Polypipe tray has upstands all over it which cuts down on the mass of concrete massively so not as much "weight" as there would be without the tray. With hindsight I'd have not had Polypipe tray there. At the wall drain, at the yellow lip under the sticker the slab will only be 70mm deep. Edited February 17, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Multitool makes it disappear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) If you are planning cast-in-place then I would advise against. I had a leak in one that had been built into a student house 16-17 years earlier, and we had to dig up the whole bl**dy thing. Nightmare. Ferdinand Edited February 17, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) 10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Multitool makes it disappear Already considering chopping it ALL out! But I'll be down to the foil atop the PIR then. Going to be a right game firstly missing the UFH pipes then getting a protective membrane back in there as a barrier between the concrete going in and foil. Guess the UFH pipes might spring a bit too but I can cable tie them to the A142. Edited February 17, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Liquid DPM ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Liquid DPM ? Straight onto the foil...that's a good idea. Not your first rodeo is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 10 minutes ago, Onoff said: Not your first rodeo is it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Tray is stone resin with something on top. Ordered now. Will prob have a question or two when it arrives - easier to answer than @Onoff questions! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 I think another member made a good suggestion. When it arrives lay it flat, outside, and level it by whatever means. Then run water over it to see if its all free running to the drain and doesn't pool at the corners / other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 11 minutes ago, CC45 said: Tray is stone resin with something on top. Ordered now. Will prob have a question or two when it arrives - easier to answer than @Onoff questions! Yeah, sorry for the hijack! Moved to my own thread now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I think another member made a good suggestion. When it arrives lay it flat, outside, and level it by whatever means. Then run water over it to see if its all free running to the drain and doesn't pool at the corners / other. Good idea - thats Tuesday night then. I'm expecting it to be ok, since I didnt buy the cheapest. Will order the valve showers tomorrow - can then get down to some plumbing again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 @Nickfromwales, I've decided in going to fill in the wet room corner LEVEL with a screed mix then "shave" the falls into it. Area is nom 1.5 x 1.4m. It's nom 100mm deep. Looking at that Ardex A38 you said about it's £27.33 + VAT for a 25kg bag! I have then 2.1m sq. At 100mm thick. Was going to use the screeding sand + 8 to 10mm aggregate + A38 mix laid out here: TECHNICAL.pdf Coverage: Approximately 3.2m2 at 25mm thick per 25kg unit Sound like a plan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Onoff said: @Nickfromwales, I've decided in going to fill in the wet room corner LEVEL with a screed mix then "shave" the falls into it. Area is nom 1.5 x 1.4m. It's nom 100mm deep. Looking at that Ardex A38 you said about it's £27.33 + VAT for a 25kg bag! I have then 2.1m sq. At 100mm thick. Was going to use the screeding sand + 8 to 10mm aggregate + A38 mix laid out here: TECHNICAL.pdf Coverage: Approximately 3.2m2 at 25mm thick per 25kg unit Sound like a plan? The A38 I only bought because I needed to be tiling in a couple of days. If you dont need that, ahem, level of urgency ( ) then just cement it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Plus the A38 goes hard in around 45 mins too, so beware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 So the tray has arrived. Heavy and seems well made. Its got to go down on a wood floor upstairs, which isn't overly flat (I didnt put it down). The floor is glued and I've also screwed it down as well. The installation instructions talk about removing the existing floor boards and replacing with a single sheet and then laying the tray down on a cement base. I've got a few qns that I'm certain some of you can answer. 1. Do I really need to replace the exiting floor boards? Not impossible to do but it will take a fair bit of time and effort. I was going to plane / sand the existing ones totally flat - surely they cant move that much? they are glued and screwed after all. I intend to strengthen the joists supporting the tray so that should help further. If the collective advice is to do this then fine. None of the guys on Youtube have done this! 2. Can I use ct1 rather than the mortar? The tray underneath isnt flat - it has raised bits that I assume strengthen the stone resin and acrylic tray. I suspect it should be bedded on mortar.... if so how deep a bed does it need? How strong a mix is necessary? 4:1? 5:1? I would add some plasticiser normally - a good idea? 3. This initial tray is tight to the timber stud work (so much so that I will need to ease out the timber slightly since the 900x900 tray is actually 905x905) - so once the tray is in I will bring down the cement board to just above the tray (so its in effect overhanging the tray) and then tile on top, having first sealed the tray with ct1. Do I need to tank the area before tiling? This tray is in an 'alcove'. 4. Trays 2 and 3 (both 1200x900) are in corners - so for the two sides that are against the cement board do I put the tray against the timber and then bring the board down onto the top of the tray or just push the tray tight against the cement board having first put some ct1 along the edge? I know there's a fellow Welsh man out there who probably knows what best practice is! Diolch @Nickfromwales! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAB Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 (edited) Using Nicks great advice in my thread above, I successfully bedded my shower tray on flexible tile adhesive rather than mortar and sealed the edges of the tray to the surrounding cement backerboard walls with white Sikaflex EBT while creating an upstand from the sealant all round, as also advised by Nick. Then I tiled down onto tray and sealed tiles to tray with clear CT1 and finally finished off with a small bead of white silicone as the replaceable cosmetic finish. The bottom edge of glass shower screen was bonded to tray with clear CT1 following instructions from another of Nicks posts......I can confirm baby wipes are perfect for cleaning off any excess Sikaflex and Multisolve works well for excess CT1. Edited February 27, 2018 by MAB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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