Wall fixing for dot and dab plaster on aerated block?

[daiking]

What would be your weapon of choice?

 

I'm looking to hang a reasonably large headboard off the wall with as few fixings as possible using something like this

 

I quite like these rawl4all for dot/dab on solid but I think I should go for something longer and suited to aerated blocks for this job.

 

(Then again, I'll be getting some rigifix bolts for mounting a TV)

Edited February 12, 2018 by daiking

[Construction Channel]

how thick is the wall?

I would go for a concrete screw if im honest, drill an undersized pilot hole and wind it in as far as i could, give it a good dose of CT1 or similar as well, aerated blocks are notorious for getting a rubbish fixing

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39995?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=sckRtJFKF_dc&pcrid=142501343890&pkw=&pmt=&product=39995&gclid=CjwKCAiAk4XUBRB5EiwAHBLUMQOFmkPzkeQaFl9zBlhdTZpNHm4EXatp4ULTg_HoAvcDePlNe9sbIRoC0IcQAvD_BwE

 

also i dont know if the clips will allow you to choose where to fix but if you can aim for a dob  

[daiking]

47 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

how thick is the wall?

I would go for a concrete screw if im honest, drill an undersized pilot hole and wind it in as far as i could, give it a good dose of CT1 or similar as well, aerated blocks are notorious for getting a rubbish fixing

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39995?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=sckRtJFKF_dc&pcrid=142501343890&pkw=&pmt=&product=39995&gclid=CjwKCAiAk4XUBRB5EiwAHBLUMQOFmkPzkeQaFl9zBlhdTZpNHm4EXatp4ULTg_HoAvcDePlNe9sbIRoC0IcQAvD_BwE

 

also i dont know if the clips will allow you to choose where to fix but if you can aim for a dob  

 

Its a first floor brick/block cavity wall, aerated on the inner leaf, obvs. I see there are a number of Fischer and dewalt fixings that are supposed to be suitable but no harm in asking what other people use. I expect the blue plugs I’ve been using will be fine with putting the load onto the plasterboard.

[PeterW]

For D&D we use these. 

 

Fitted some fairly big rads with them and they are fine - they do a cutter to clean behind the board if you do hit a dab. 

 

On the latest one we have ave used this stuff . I was skeptical and so was my plasterer but even he said it leaves a very solid wall feeling. It also brings the blocks into contact with the board pretty much so you can use ordinary plugs. 

[daiking]

11 minutes ago, PeterW said:

For D&D we use these. 

 

Fitted some fairly big rads with them and they are fine - they do a cutter to clean behind the board if you do hit a dab. 

 

On the latest one we have ave used this stuff . I was skeptical and so was my plasterer but even he said it leaves a very solid wall feeling. It also brings the blocks into contact with the board pretty much so you can use ordinary plugs. 

 

I know the gripits are supposed to be good but what if you hit a blob of adhesive?

 

I'd like something long enough to go into the block but be removable so not glued in place as Ed suggested. 

Edited February 12, 2018 by daiking

[PeterW]

I’ve got one of these but before I got one I used a bolt in the drill and the head makes enough space for the wings. http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/product/20mm-undercutting-tool/

 

The only problem on the early ones was the screw heads shearing off when you opened the wings but tbh they don’t need to be open more than 1/6th turn to grip properly. 

[PeterW]

If you want something removable then drill the hole and inject a bit of foam to stop the board bowing and leave it to set. Re-drill the hole and use a frame fixer and it will be very solid ..! You can unscrew it and drill the top off the plug and fill the hole and no-one will know it’s been there 

[daiking]

11 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I’ve got one of these but before I got one I used a bolt in the drill and the head makes enough space for the wings. http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/product/20mm-undercutting-tool/

 

The only problem on the early ones was the screw heads shearing off when you opened the wings but tbh they don’t need to be open more than 1/6th turn to grip properly. 

 

good tip, thanks. I might have a few of theses in one of my boxes of stuff.

[Nickfromwales]

44 minutes ago, daiking said:

I know the gripits are supposed to be good but what if you hit a blob of adhesive?

You then ditch the plasterboard fixing and go back to nylon plug and coach bolt . 

[daiking]

12 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

You then ditch the plasterboard fixing and go back to nylon plug and coach bolt . 

 

In aerated concrete blocks?

[Nickfromwales]

42 minutes ago, daiking said:

 

In aerated concrete blocks?

I've hung radiators and boilers and more on everything you can imagine.  I drill a hole, tap a plug in, and then pack the centre of the plug with a sliver of pine, also tapped in until snug and then snapped off flush. 

Then in goes an oversized coach bolt. 3 per bracket ( 2 top + 1 btm ) so 6 per radiator. 

Where there's a will........

[MikeGrahamT21]

+1 for nylon plug and coach bolts, they work very well. Just drill your hole slightly smaller (0.5mm) than the plug suggests to get a tight fit.

 

As part of fitting the external wall insulation to our aircrete, I tested about 20 different fixings for various applications in the blocks, and was impressed by the strength of fixing of some of them, so much so that my pull out test involved standing on the block and pull as hard as I physically could, and still couldn't shift the damned thing!

 

But as Nick says, use a plug which is too small for the screw/bolt, and this helps greatly. I used coach bolts and nylon plugs for wall starters off of aircrete, and the drill clicked off with the setting on 25 (almost as high as it will go), so its a very good strong fix.

[Onoff]

Is aerated block like old breeze blocks?

 

I used concrete screws when battening out my walls but some are spinning

 

 

 

Edited February 14, 2018 by Onoff

[MikeGrahamT21]

You will never get a grab in an AAC block with those type fixings, they only work when theres aggregate present, of which there is none/very little in AAC, always has to be some form of plastic sleeve around the fixing for it to work right.

 

For battens, you need helical fixings, they are quite expensive though, but I found them to have the highest strength of anything out there for AAC. Search Thor Helical.

[Declan52]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Is aerated block like old breeze blocks?

 

I used concrete screws when battening out my walls but some are spinning

 

 

 

Drill the hole with a  0.5mm  smaller bit than it recommends. That's all I done for my door frames.

Edited February 14, 2018 by Declan52

[Construction Channel]

^ what @Declan52 said, plus get some longer ones, from the look of it they are only in about 30mm in the wall, 

 

if it still spins put a plug in the hole and put it back in 

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

^ what @Declan52 said, plus get some longer ones, from the look of it they are only in about 30mm in the wall, 

 

if it still spins put a plug in the hole and put it back in 

 

Nah, I've counterbored with a spade bit to get extra depth.

 

In the brick wall they're fine. 

[Declan52]

As my house was a mixture of lightweight blocks and standard blocks I used for example on a 6mm screw a 5.5mm bit for the standard blocks but 5mm for the lightweight blocks. All gripped the very best.

[daiking]

What a ducking palaver. Ordered some “heavy duty” brackets but the ducking numpties packed the metal brackets in a wrapped up plastic bag which arrived sans one of the bracket. Told them but despite being told more were being sent, none ever arrived. 

 

So duck this, I spent about 6 hours today getting stuff out and putting it back to spend 20 mins blitzing a piece of 18mm mdf to create 2 big wedges type brackets. Should have been wallpapering the wall instead, mind. But anything to avoid a second attempt at wallpapering.

 

In answer to the premise of the thread, just rawlplugs in the end ?