Onoff Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 22 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Reminds you of the last time you came home pissed That would have been about 30 years ago then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Hmm... Putting this lot in and tbh I thought this might be an issue. On the right, first then I've the stop cock on the MDPE, then a tee off to the outside tap via an isolator. Next comes the PRV with a tee above to feed the cistern and cloak basin. BUT.....the horizontal tee off to the cistern puts the 15mm pipe too high to practically connect to the cistern and then drop to the tee with the drain dock on: At the mo I've the chrome tap connector on the cistern pipe. Any suggestions? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Take the feed for the cloakroom branch behind the cistern inlet and vertically straight down to the compression tee and DOC. 300mm or so down that vertical drop put a 15mm tee and an M&F 15 bend facing vertically and connect that to a flexi. Take the flexi and use that to feed the cistern and open an 4-pack. Pic here shows the tee turned sideways for illustration ( if you can call it that ) but I'd put it forward facing so the two pipes are one in front of the other. Use a ballofix flexi so you have isolation for the wc. Fit the flexi forts and that'll tell you where to cut into the vertical 15mm pipe. Drawing done whilst making fish fingers for 4 gannet-esque kids so please be gentle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Cheers. Effing fiddly this plumbing lark! Not sure what size the "tap" connector is on the bottom of the cistern. It measures 21mm across the threads and a 24mm spanner fits? 15mm x 1/2" or 15mm x 3/4"? Thinking I might just be able to get an end feed, solder ring tap connector on and then a tee underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Standard 1/2" tap connector or flexi. I prefer flexis onto those as they have a rubber seal which is far more forgiving against the plastic stem. A tap connector will have a nylon / fibre washer and they are great fun to get spot on each time. A flexi can more or less be done up hand tight and still not leak. Watch for cross threading as that's a real pig of a connector to get on tidy first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Cheers. The existing one has a red fibre washer in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 20 minutes ago, Onoff said: Thinking I might just be able to get an end feed, solder ring tap connector on and then a tee underneath Why make life difficult? I assume you know you can't solder the tap connector or adjacent fittings whilst it's made off to the plastic stem? Seen many a nugget do that and not realise they've just melted the shit out of the fill valve stem. Another favourite seems to be doing the same on an electric shower. Keeps me in a job though 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Cheers. The existing one has a red fibre washer in. Yup. I'm not exactly a fan tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) I'd do any soldering first then "spring" it in. That bottom 15mm pipe off to the basin is as floppy as. Edited October 16, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 +1 to what @Nickfromwales said about using the flexi as they are much more forgiving. If that cistern is coming out in the future then you will need some movement around where the next one connects. If it was me I would drop a straight leg into the pipe along the bottom of the wall and extend out to the left and then use a flexi off that - gives you the choice when you replace for either a left or right hand fill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 1 minute ago, PeterW said: +1 to what @Nickfromwales said about using the flexi as they are much more forgiving. If that cistern is coming out in the future then you will need some movement around where the next one connects. If it was me I would drop a straight leg into the pipe along the bottom of the wall and extend out to the left and then use a flexi off that - gives you the choice when you replace for either a left or right hand fill. I spent ages on that saddle bend! It'll look lost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: I spent ages on that saddle bend! It'll look lost Nah..!! Dodgy iPhone edit but something like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Cut, scrap, move on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 The bib tap..... I drilled thru the wall with an 18mm bit. Might have gone thru at a bit too much of an angle tbh. The tap where it screws into the wall plate thing was surprisingly loose and had taken copious ammounts of PTFE tape to get tight. I'll wrap the pipe in tape as has been said. You can see the pipe coming thru the wall. But will I get away with a Cupro, push fit elbow as opposed to a solder ring fitting? Be easier to lineo up as I could just rotate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 There good for 10 bar so don't see why not. Only worry is the angle. Can you re drill it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: There good for 10 bar so don't see why not. Only worry is the angle. Can you re drill it? My first plan was to drill at 20mm, then slip in a length of pvc electrical conduit and run the 15mm copper thru that. I HAVE taken on board what you said that if you drill too big a hole it can cause probs on the outside for the 3 screws in the flange plate. I reckon though that the conduit would work improving the angle and still allowing screwing. With the Cuprofit, from memory they allow for a bit of an angle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Bit the bullet and went with a flexi. I assume they're OK straight into the compression T / isolator valve. Btw the isolators are Pegler half decent ones. I'll sort the outside tap tomorrow. Bit miffed with the PRV gauge as its all plastic rather than brass as shown on the Sfix site. Needed some PTFE tape in the threads to get it tight. All nutted up now so a bit straighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 That's not what was in my uber crap drawing . The flexi going straight onto the compression fitting isn't cricket I'm afraid. Is this a temporary arrangement until the framed WC goes in ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 (edited) 6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: That's not what was in my uber crap drawing . The flexi going straight onto the compression fitting isn't cricket I'm afraid. Is this a temporary arrangement until the framed WC goes in? Erm.....you know my "temporary"! Tbh probably won't use the spare Geberit frame here or at least just yet. This WC is at the end of a narrow corridor that's been formed by hiving off a strip from the downstairs bedroom. Its not been done well either to my mind. Long term plan is to widen the corridor slightly and make an en suite shower room. So although the WC will be roughly where it is now it won't be exact. Back to me connecting the flexis like this...why not? Is it that the rubber washer doesn't seat properly on the compression fitting faces? Cheers EDIT: What was I thinking! I'll ditch this flexi and fit a compression one with short bits of pipe in the fittings. Edited October 18, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 You should have a flat faced copper to iron ( 15x1/2 male ) and the female end of the flexi turns onto that. Did you misinterpret my drawing or did you just freestyle it ? The nut and olive side of the flexi should have been teed into the vertical drop and made off to copper pipe leaving the flexi end to go straight onto the cistern inlet / stem. I leave you alone for 5 minutes.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Did you misinterpret my drawing or did you just freestyle it ? Erm....bit of both tbh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Honesty is the best policy The only thing that will let you down is that rubber seal onto the compression tee. I had a few let me down in my 'early years' and don't risk it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) And the crowd goes wild as Onoff finishes something.....(nearly)! A little off piste to the suggestions but it puts the isolators in line. Fascinating watching the PRV going up and down! Cheers all. EDIT: Just got to screw the tap on outside. Edited October 18, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 It's a thing of beauty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 Bugger! The 25mm MDPE to the stopcock is leaking a tad. Yes there's an insert in the pipe, yes the olive (metal) that came with the stopcock is on the pipe. Doing it up and it's starting to squeak..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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