Professional needed?

[saveasteading]

Yes, no, as long as possible, yes.

It is a "tell-tale"

 

I think glued is preferred as it doesn't twist.

 

[SteamyTea]

2 hours ago, Reggie1 said:

Should I use one of these

How good are you at keeping records?

 

Could easily make your own 

Edited August 7 by SteamyTea

[saveasteading]

44 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Could easily make your own

I wouldn't. It is a well made , fit for purpose, and precise thing, and I don't think expensive.

 

The only issue would be if the crack has completed its shrinking and starts to close again when the rains come. I think it would just shatter then, but still a point proven.

Maybe glue one side only and take measurements and photos to account for this happier possibility.

[Reggie1]

2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

I wouldn't. It is a well made , fit for purpose, and precise thing, and I don't think expensive.

 

The only issue would be if the crack has completed its shrinking and starts to close again when the rains come. I think it would just shatter then, but still a point proven.

Maybe glue one side only and take measurements and photos to account for this happier possibility.

I will buy some and place them on all the cracks ive pictured, but i was wondering if a structural engineer would take offence, as someone mentioned about the document ive produced. Also should i apply them and get an engineer in say October to give some usefull info, as the weather will have changed by then?

what's the approach i should take, structural engineer now, or apply these and wait till october?

These cracks may have happened when we had that really bad snow and there was a lot of thick snow on the roof. I think the pointing is in need of re doing so the walls probably could be stronger.

As it happens I'm an engineer just not a structural one, so I need an approach to take, as I'm not too sure on how to approach this.

[Alan Ambrose]

Suggest just call up, describe the problem in round terms, send them a few pics and ask them to take a look and give an opinion. Maybe an informal opinion and recommendation rather than a report. They may charge for their time but it’s probably money well spent. They’ll like dealing with you if they don’t have to explain the basic laws of physics 😀.

Edited Friday at 16:46 by Alan Ambrose

[saveasteading]

If you think your report will be credible then fit them and take readings fortnightly, listing on a spreadsheet. Summarise  the weather over the period.

Take photos too. Lots .They can always be deleted.

But if you are going to engage an SE then why not now? They won't mind you doing your own thing in the interim.

But just phone one, maybe two and don't send that inquisition form.

[Reggie1]

OK im a little clearer, but I have 4 more questions before i contact someone

1) What (qualifications/experience/ institutions) does this person need  (rics registered/accredited) or MIStructE MICE
2) Do I need a full level 3 home survey, or should i just focus on the staggered cracks issue?
3) Is there a way to check their credentials / reviews?
4) Should i be checking my insurance to see if it could be covered?

Edited Tuesday at 12:37 by Reggie1

[Reggie1]

I've been using AI to brainstorm, and this is its plan, does this sound logical, has it missed anything? Im aware AI can make mistakes hence asking the exerts here!

1. 1. Instruct a RICS Level 3 Building Survey first ( RICS-regulated) or (local MRICS team). This one report covers both structural movement and damp, flags repairs before you spend, and typically sits in the low four figures depending on size/age .
2. Take the written report (with photos and prioritised defects) to your builder/architect when you request tenders, so every bidder prices the same known scope rather than inflating contingency for unknowns.
3. If the survey finds structural defects, hand those to a chartered structural engineer (StructSpectrum or Heddon Structures) to produce repair calculations and drawings for Building Control — this turns "something's wrong" into a priced, defined job.
4. Hold a 10–15% contingency on top of tenders for genuinely unforeseen conditions that even a good on-site inspection cannot predict.
5. Fix the fee in writing up front — ask for a fixed-fee quote that says what's included and what would attract extra charges, since structural engineers commonly charge for time plus expenses and unforeseen site conditions often add work .

[Mr Punter]

You seem keen to get a report from a SE.  Most will deal with this competently.  Let us know what they say.

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

keen to get a report from a SE.

That's absolutely what I would do... if it wasn't my profession already.

The reason I say that is that even a very good building surveyor (not a quantity surveyor) who is RICS, or the most  practical registered Architect will see the cracks and tell you that there are cracks.  And that you need an SE to look into it.

 

The AI suggestion above will include both the surveyor or Architect and then the SE.

 

Surveyors and Architects are much better at self publicity, hence AI has found this ready made suggestion.

 

 

[Great_scot_selfbuild]

7 hours ago, Reggie1 said:

OK im a little clearer, but I have 4 more questions before i contact someone

1) What (qualifications/experience/ institutions) does this person need  (rics registered/accredited) or MIStructE MICE
2) Do I need a full level 3 home survey, or should i just focus on the staggered cracks issue?
3) Is there a way to check their credentials / reviews?
4) Should i be checking my insurance to see if it could be covered?

I’m just going to comment on your original/repeated question - How I would approach this:

 

1. Keep it simple (as a few others have said). I’ve done both approaches, with good reason and the right intent, but the best response and subsequent discussion has come from a very short initial enquiry. You’ve thought a lot about this; one way of cutting it down is write everything down and then get one of the AI tools to summarise your concerns into, say, 3 bullets that you could easily describe in an initial phone call. I wouldn’t expect it to give a finished solution, but this sort of approach can be good at sifting your thoughts.

2. Start with a phone call. You won’t be able to sift the good from bad necessarily, but you’ll get a feel for whether they’re interested and if it’s worth them visiting (or if you’d rather not progress to that stage - I’d want someone I could comfortably talk to).

3. Approach at *least* 3 before arranging one/two to visit (depending on cost/offers/approach - they will vary). Search for local recommendations, local FB groups you may be on/neighbours who have had big building works done etc.

4. Walk them round the aspects that concern you and why - the subsequent conversation will be led by their professional experience (this is why you want to try doing research on the company/person in advance.

IMPORTANT: Check companies house (worth doing for any professional service imho). Dead easy to search - google “company / individual name companies house” this will give you an idea of how established the company is, what the finances are like and when you look at the names of the people you can see if they’ve had multiple businesses. This isn’t always a problem, but it helps you understand the risk or how you choose to pay (for example, I’d be less inclined to pay a lot upfront if there are any aspects that concerned me).

 

Based on your post, personally, I would go for an SE assessment, before then seeing where it may take you as to the work required. Depending on how you get on with the SE you may find they have a few recommendations of other professionals they have a positive opinion of. Always get more than one quote (as mentioned earlier).

 

Best of luck

 

[torre]

Having owned property of similar age and condition I don't see anything that would greatly concern me. The house probably has minimal foundations, brick corbel plus maybe 100mm concrete if you're lucky, but has lasted over a century including a mix of exceptionally dry summers and very wet winters with what look like minor cracks. 

 

I think it's worth getting an SE to look at your specific concerns (the left E pic most notably) but I'd be careful not to get pulled into a lot of expensive remedial work for limited benefit by the first less than scrupulous builder you speak to.

[saveasteading]

10 hours ago, torre said:

careful not to get pulled into a lot of expensive remedial work

The SE may well say to leave it alone while the winter allows the ground to get wet again and perhaps expand.

Filling cracks now could be the worst thing to do.

 

[scottishjohn]

when you have repointed --with a proper mix as some of it looks very lean for pointing mix and sorted cracks you can see

 

 then I seriously suggest you treat outside of house with "permagaurd " or some other  make -- not ronseal  or thompsons --they do not last 

 

I can say from experience of doing it on my 1750 granite house --which looked perfectly ok for pointing -- but had water ingress issues  when the winds go to 40mph+ that  it will stop moisture from coming through your  bricks and mortar

 

 they say itwill fill a 2mm gap   and it does work very well and has a life of 20+years 

 it is common problem in my area with old stone houses  and it is also the cure--even on porous sandstone ones 

 easy to apply ==like wallpaper paste which just sucks  in  as it drys.

  after i had done it  i noticed strange wee spots around the house on the concrete  when it rained -- but not there when ground dry 

 

it turned out to be where I dripped the permagaurd micro shield ultra  when treating the walls -- and has kept the spots where it landed dry when it rains --so they look white as opposed the the normal darker colour of untreated concrete when wet

 

 I will be monitoring this over the years to see when it stops working .  LOL