Space Race Posted Friday at 14:26 Posted Friday at 14:26 Looking to remove the old asphalt roof tiles from our log cabin and create a warm roof off the existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking. Roof pitch is 17 deg. Initially I’d fix a 2x4 timber ontop of the sarking all around the edge to create an upstand lip, I’d screw both materials but also use galv angle brackets along its length. The 2x4 is shown in green on my pic attached. Starting from the outside 1) Box profile metal roof sheets 2) Roof sheet batten (ORANGE IN PIC) 3) Counterbatten fixed through 90mm PIR into 18mm sarking (BLUE IN PIC) 4) Breather membrane 5) 90mm PIR (RED IN PIC) 6) VCL 7) Existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking If I’ve missed anything blindingly obvious let me know but my main concern is fixing the counter batten/PIR to the 18mm sarking. What would be the best fixing for this and would it be enough? The way this log building is constructed, The roof is supported by 2x8 purlins rather than rafters.
Mr Punter Posted Friday at 14:49 Posted Friday at 14:49 It would give a much better fixing if you could fix the counter battens through to the purlins. Unless you go through the t & g boards I don't think it will be strong enough.
Space Race Posted Friday at 15:47 Author Posted Friday at 15:47 I could certainly get a some fixings into the purlins but the majority would be in the 18mm t&g only and that's my worry
Space Race Posted Friday at 18:12 Author Posted Friday at 18:12 Another option, I could add some ply board from the underside of sarking (between purlins) just to give the fixings more purchase
Space Race Posted Friday at 18:34 Author Posted Friday at 18:34 Or rather than ply sheet, Add some 4x2 at say 500/600mm centers with the timbers laid so their widest face 4" was up against the sarking giving me 18mm t&g + 45mm timber to go at.
Russell griffiths Posted yesterday at 06:48 Posted yesterday at 06:48 What is this building going to be used for ? why not insulate it from underneath ? you are going to end up with some fairly hefty looking facia and barge boards.
Space Race Posted yesterday at 13:36 Author Posted yesterday at 13:36 Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.
Space Race Posted yesterday at 13:38 Author Posted yesterday at 13:38 Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.
Space Race Posted yesterday at 13:39 Author Posted yesterday at 13:39 Wrote reply in notes on phone. Copy pasted. No idea why size is all over the place and cat see how to edit size
elite Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago Have you considered insulated metal panels? They acheive a decent span, though the detail around the gable doors might be complicated
Space Race Posted 10 hours ago Author Posted 10 hours ago Yes, They looked promising but make for some awkward detailing and cuts on the valleys. Much easier to deal with the insulation and sheeting seperately. If I didn’t have the valleys these would be a no brainer. That said I still have a fixing problem. The 4x2 solution in a prev post seems like best option so far with some sort of twistfix fixing but open to further ideas
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