Space Race

Is this in response to my posts or someone else? If mine, I'm not sure what your referring to, I'm talking about insulation on top of the roof

Yes, They looked promising but make for some awkward detailing and cuts on the valleys. Much easier to deal with the insulation and sheeting seperately. If I didn’t have the valleys these would be a no brainer. That said I still have a fixing problem. The 4x2 solution in a prev post seems like best option so far with some sort of twistfix fixing but open to further ideas

Wrote reply in notes on phone. Copy pasted. No idea why size is all over the place and cat see how to edit size

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all.

Or rather than ply sheet, Add some 4x2 at say 500/600mm centers with the timbers laid so their widest face 4" was up against the sarking giving me 18mm t&g + 45mm timber to go at.

Another option, I could add some ply board from the underside of sarking (between purlins) just to give the fixings more purchase

I could certainly get a some fixings into the purlins but the majority would be in the 18mm t&g only and that's my worry

Looking to remove the old asphalt roof tiles from our log cabin and create a warm roof off the existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking. Roof pitch is 17 deg. Initially I’d fix a 2x4 timber ontop of the sarking all around the edge to create an upstand lip, I’d screw both materials but also use galv angle brackets along its length. The 2x4 is shown in green on my pic attached. Starting from the outside 1) Box profile metal roof sheets 2) Roof sheet batten (ORANGE IN PIC) 3) Counterbatten fixed through 90mm PIR into 18mm sarking (BLUE IN PIC) 4) Breather membrane 5) 90mm PIR (RED IN PIC) 6) VCL 7) Existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking If I’ve missed anything blindingly obvious let me know but my main concern is fixing the counter batten/PIR to the 18mm sarking. What would be the best fixing for this and would it be enough? The way this log building is constructed, The roof is supported by 2x8 purlins rather than rafters.

Lost track of websites visited, videos watched. Glad I asked here

I was thinking the (vertical) frame timbers would be fairly snug up to each side of the window but actually they could stand clear. Then my vertical battens would be spaced as you show. Thanks!

How small was the gap?

Looking at using board on board vertical cladding with a ventilation strip/mesh at the bottom and top of cladding. I'm struggling to find any examples of how these vents are detailed under and above windows. To form a vent over the head of the window seems easier (much like at the base) but I've not found a single example for under. Is this not done? Am i overthinking this If anyone can point me in the direction of ventilation details above and below windows that would be much appreciated

Yes. They started with a log building (similar to mine), 3rd pic down is their vapour barrier, 2nd and 4th pic they have added the timbers in which batts will sit, 1st pic shows batts being installed. 5th pic shows their breathable membrane and battens ready for cladding.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that Intello. Assume it's one of these smart membranes. The pics are not mine but the clear plastic looks to still be there after the insulation frame has been fitted, Assume its their vapour barrier. Someone else used Ekovilla Smart X but I've not seen this as readily available to buy as the Intello you suggest. Because I'm working on this part time and solo (slow A.F), dealing with Highland weather and all my layers are external, I'm concerned about trapping in moisture

Finally on the back end of restumping our 12 year old log cabin and starting to think about details for the insulation and overcladding of the walls. I’m following the idea shown in the attached pics (photos from logcabinkits.co.uk) but worried the vapour barrier would trap any existing moisture in the logs. Improving the air tightness would be great but struggling with concept of wrapping wood in plastic. Would one of these fancier “smart” barriers be better? Any suggestions? The cabin already has some rotten logs I’ll need to cut out and patch and the North face won’t dry out again now whilst summer. Any thoughts from the more knowledgeable on this? For clarity in case its not clear, From inside to out 68mm logs Vapour barrier Insulation frame for mineral wool batts Breathable membrane 25mm vertical batten 25mm horizontal batten Vertical timber / metal cladding

Do you think a similar idea using a 300mm plastic twinwall pipe would work. Say 600mm square hole with the pipe in the center, 2 or 3 lengths of rebar through the pipe and fill both the hole and pipe with concrete?

We have a 10x5m log cabin that's raised off the ground on (sleeper type) timber posts. These posts are now at varying stages of rot and I'd like to replace them with something a little hardier. As a side note I'm also looking to insulate and clad externally so these new supports will project out 100-150mm around the perimeter. The ground level slopes and the attached drawing shows the gable end where the ground is at it's highest with only 110mm clearance. On the opposite gable (not shown) the grounds much lower with a 450mm clearance. It's tricky as I'll need to prop the frame (possibly jack, depending), Remove the rotten leg and small pad its sat on, then dig the new foundations in the tight space between floor joists. I'd only be able to do a few holes at a time due to the propping and if I fill each hole with concrete I've a further wait before being able to build off it. I was thinking about using hollow concrete block stacked on top of each other in the hole with concrete poured both into the hole as well a inside the block itself, more to tie them together than anything. This means I could get the new support done in one hit but the bottom block would only be encased in concrete, not sat on it. Has anyone any thoughts on this? Feel like I'm too close to this now with overthinking and unable to see the woods for the trees SH_Gable Foundations RHS.pdf

So many builds i look at use OSB so I've either done something wrong with my Ubakus selections (likely) or the analysis is wonky. I tried a few of their other OSB options as well as ply and MDF. The only option that removes the moisture issue is MDF 500kg/m3

Been looking at how best to go about cladding and insulating externally with current thinking as follows, Build a new 6x2m frame filled with 140mm thick roll of Frametherm 32. Counterbatten the frame and clad with vertical board on board cladding. I popped this all into Ubakus (which I clearly don't understand) and all looked fine until the OSB layer was added. TBH I'm not 100% if this is needed but if it is, Can anyone explain what I'm seeing with the Moisture issue? From what I've read the OSB sheathing gives the frame its strength, That said my frame will not be supporting a floor or roof, Just the insulation and cladding. Would I need this? Thanks

Right, So it's basically just a sheathing layer albeit insulated. Had not realised this was needed, The thicker wood fibre insulation I'd looked at did both duties. Thanks

In the case of the attached Ubakus example what material would be used for the 35mm unterdeckplatte?

Guessing It’s this one by JohnMo? Some useful info, Thanks https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/31017-summer-house-insulation/ If going the route of upgrading the cabin I’d want to clad externally though with a membrance keeping the rain out of the logs. The movement of the logs around doors and windows is a problem. Would not be happy spending so much to insulate the building and then leaving large gaps around windows and doors. In terms of the supports under the joist base It looks like I’m either digging new post holes or some kind of ground screw. On the whole a new build elsewhere in the garden would be more straightforward but still researching

Started looking at options for creating some office space at home, Usual suspects, House extension, dedicated garden office etc and wondering if renovating an existing cabin would be better use of funds vs a new purpose built garden office. In the garden we’ve a 10x6m log cabin style summer house that’s not getting as much use as it might. The cabin came with the house and was erected about 11 years ago It’s constructed from 68mm logs and sits on a raised 145x45mm (6x2) joist base. The base is supported on timber posts (assume post mix concreted in), Height from ground to floor varies but It’s around 450mm at high point and well ventilated. It’s been maintained but the timber doors and windows need replacing and there are a couple of spots where driving rain gets in. If going the cabin route I’d want to * Upgrade / Replace support posts for additional weight and ensure these will last for many years to come. * Insulate floor * Insulate walls * Insulate roof. * Replace doors and windows, possibly changing the existing apertures. * Clad the outside if the wall insulation was external. Cladding the outside would also sort the rain ingress which i understand is not unheard of with these log buildings. That said, Insulating the inside seems like it would be much easier at initial glance. Not sure if linking videos is permitted but this shows a similar scenario with a cladding detail that would work aesthetically. I’ve not looked at this too deeply though and open to options. Also worth pointing out, Our cabin is very similar to the one in the video but I’ll take some pictures once the snow has cleared and take a closer look underneath at the base frame. The attached image is the kind of thing we have Has anyone done anything similar? Any advice? Would the savings (if any) make sense over building a new purpose made building. I’d be very interested to hear your ideas on how to deal with upgrading the support posts given this is an existing building with limited access to the underneath. The floor can be taken up but I’d still be working between joists.

Yes the plan is to sink it so top of edging is just under the lowest cut on the mower deck so It can be mown over. No robot mower, Ride on