Bath choices, acrylic, reinforced acrylic or steel?

[YorkieSelfBuild]

Hi, I'm choosing my 1700 x 700 bath which will have a shower as well.

 

What material and brands should I get? I want it to be sturdy enough to stand in while showering.

 

• Standard acrylic 5mm like Carron Swallow £258?

• Thicker 8mm acrylic like Carron Swallow £335?

• Reinforced acrylic like Carronite Swallow? £481

• Steel with enamel coating like Kaldewei which start around £200 but likely something from £300?

 

I've read forums elsewhere where some recommend Carronite or another reinforced acrylic but others say standard acrylic is fine. Is 8mm a good middle ground?

[marshian]

4 minutes ago, YorkieSelfBuild said:

Hi, I'm choosing my 1700 x 700 bath which will have a shower as well.

 

What material and brands should I get? I want it to be sturdy enough to stand in while showering.

 

• Standard acrylic 5mm like Carron Swallow £258?

• Thicker 8mm acrylic like Carron Swallow £335?

• Reinforced acrylic like Carronite Swallow? £481

• Steel with enamel coating like Kaldewei which start around £200 but likely something from £300?

 

I've read forums elsewhere where some recommend Carronite or another reinforced acrylic but others say standard acrylic is fine. Is 8mm a good middle ground?

 

I fitted an 8mm thick bath (P shaped for extra width at shower end) I was not at all happy with the feel of it when I trialed it after first fit - it felt like it had movement when standing in it

 

My solution was to use the feet from the previous bath as well as the ones supplied with the new bath (so 8 feet not 4 feet)

 

Feels like a concrete bath now no flex or movement at all

[Kelvin]

We have a Roca The Gap 1700x700 acrylic bath. I’ve no idea how thick it is. However it’s completely solid with no flex. I did build a frame around it and it sits solidly on 6 feet. 

[Nickfromwales]

I'd say avoid steel. I've seen too many with the enamel chipped and then they start to rust.

 

Search up trojan cast too, for properly tough reinforced acrylic / grp types. Standard flimsy baths are not designed for you to stand in, that's why shower-baths always come slightly more robust, to take the point pressure of you standing in one spot.

 

29 minutes ago, marshian said:

My solution was to use the feet from the previous bath as well as the ones supplied with the new bath (so 8 feet not 4 feet)

Same. Makes a good job great, and as I was often removing U/S baths I kept the tidy feet for such instances.

[marshian]

33 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Same. Makes a good job great, and as I was often removing U/S baths I kept the tidy feet for such instances.

 

I couldn't put my finger on why it didn't feel right it just didn't - it wasn't tiled in or siliconed to the wall but in hindsight the way a bath is used for a shower is completely different in terms of feel to when it's used as a bath - 80 litres of water and an 85 kg person laying down in it is completely different loading to zero water and an 85 kg person standing at one end with the bath supported by 4 points of contact aligned more to the middle section.

 

Increasing the number of braces to 4 and feet to 8 really changed the solidity of the bath.

 

One day I'll get rid of the cheap ass plastic panel and build a proper tiled one with the spare tiles I bought to do it and kept aside under the bath

 

Yeah we all have one day jobs like that..............

 

 

But then again as Mrs Alien chose the tiles and they my my eyes squint and remind me of a stiff little fingers album cover I probably won't

Edited Thursday at 22:31 by marshian
Add picture

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, marshian said:

 

I couldn't put my finger on why it didn't feel right it just didn't - it wasn't tiled in or siliconed to the wall but in hindsight the way a bath is used for a shower is completely different in terms of feel to when it's used as a bath - 80 litres of water and an 85 kg person laying down in it is completely different loading to zero water and an 85 kg person standing at one end with the bath supported by 4 points of contact aligned more to the middle section.

 

Increasing the number of braces to 4 and feet to 8 really changed the solidity of the bath.

 

One day I'll get rid of the cheap ass plastic panel and build a proper tiled one with the spare tiles I bought to do it and kept aside under the bath

 

Yeah we all have one day jobs like that..............

 

 

But then again as Mrs Alien chose the tiles and they my my eyes squint and remind me of a stiff little fingers album cover I probably won't

Not sure how to tell you this.........

 

 

..but the tiles are on wrong. The lines are suppose to go up/down not left/right. Should be a quick fix though  

[marshian]

1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Not sure how to tell you this.........

 

 

..but the tiles are on wrong. The lines are suppose to go up/down not left/right. Should be a quick fix though  

It’s ok it’s balanced out in the other bathroom they go up down 😉 

[Nickfromwales]

4 minutes ago, marshian said:

It’s ok it’s balanced out in the other bathroom they go up down 😉 

Ah........... I was hoping you wouldn't bring that up tbh.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Theyre wrong too.

[dpmiller]

A vote for TrojanCast here- we've a sizeable corner bath that is used mostly as an ultradeep shower tray, and it's very solid both at base and rim.

[nod]

We once had a steel bath No long soaks Water quickly cooled 🧊 

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, nod said:

We once had a steel bath No long soaks Water quickly cooled 🧊 

Yea, ended up fitting one and I decided to stuff a load of surplus rockwool around and under it. Client looked at me as if I was mental, and I said you’ll thank me later. 
 

Metal baths are just horrid things imo. 

[crispy_wafer]

🤣 appreciate the last couple of posts, I've been eyeing up steel baths too...  

[Nickfromwales]

13 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

🤣 appreciate the last couple of posts, I've been eyeing up steel baths too...  

You can still have one, just out in the back garden is the best place for it. Last Of The Summer Wine styleeee!!

[BadgerBodger]

To throw into the mix. What is the verdict on resin stone baths in people’s experiences? 

[YorkieSelfBuild]

Thanks everyone for the replies. 

 

I've seen this, it's GRP

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/ceramica-single-ended-square-bath-with-side-and-end-panel-1700x700mm-762-1263778

 

Great tip, I'll buy an extra leg set. Btw are they universal and fit any bath?

 

Another tip I read elsewhere was add some batten to the stud wall underneath the bath edge. Maybe overlapping the edge as well? Is either of those a good idea?

[Nickfromwales]

9 minutes ago, BadgerBodger said:

To throw into the mix. What is the verdict on resin stone baths in people’s experiences? 

I’ve fitted a few ‘composite’ baths, and they all seem fine tbh. 

[Kelvin]

3 minutes ago, YorkieSelfBuild said:

Thanks everyone for the replies. 

 

I've seen this, it's GRP

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/ceramica-single-ended-square-bath-with-side-and-end-panel-1700x700mm-762-1263778

 

Great tip, I'll buy an extra leg set. Btw are they universal and fit any bath?

 

Another tip I read elsewhere was add some batten to the stud wall underneath the bath edge. Maybe overlapping the edge as well? Is either of those a good idea?

Whether they are universal depends on the bath I think. Check the bath spec. 
 

I framed ours. The bit that can flex is the bath panel side if it’s unsupported other than the bath panel itself. Some bath panels are fitted to a plastic mounting frame. Because I tiled the bath panel side I built a timber frame and then screwed cement board to it (because I happened to have that) then tiled onto that. 

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, YorkieSelfBuild said:

Thanks everyone for the replies. 

 

I've seen this, it's GRP

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/ceramica-single-ended-square-bath-with-side-and-end-panel-1700x700mm-762-1263778

 

Great tip, I'll buy an extra leg set. Btw are they universal and fit any bath?

 

Another tip I read elsewhere was add some batten to the stud wall underneath the bath edge. Maybe overlapping the edge as well? Is either of those a good idea?

Legs just screw on, and most are compatible. Just don’t do what I did one fateful morning, and get your apprentice to pass you the short pan head screw you asked him for, and then switch off and fire in the longer one he gave you by mistake, as he was texting his girlfriend, and then shoot straight through the bottom of the bath.   

 

I always batten the wall, for flimsy baths, but it’s just good practice generally unless the bath comes with very good mounting brackets. 
 

B&Q type crap usually come with a couple of flimsy metal clips which are useless, these go in the bin.

 

Set the bath to the height and level, and push into place. Lean under and mark the X and Y on the internal corner of the underside of the bath edge, then same at each outer corner. Install the battens appx 100mm short of the ends of the bath to allow for panels to go on.

 

Set the battens 2mm lower than you need and then peel back the plastic protective wrap along the edges that meet the wall; only peel back over the edge and tape these down. Then get pvc electrical tape and mask the edges of the bath leaving none of the coat deck exposed. This is to allow you to CT1 the bath in, for it to be displaced and be tooled in for life, and then you peel the masking off before the sealant begins to cure.

 

Apply the CT1 (clear) to the top of the battens and put plenty on, that absorbs the 2mm set down of the battens. The bath flexes and drops very slightly when you fill it with water and add a human being, so the CT1 gives a little tolerance there. More CT1 goes on the wall, and very slightly above where the bath deck ends. 
 

Push the bath into position and wiggle it as much as you can to get the CT1 to take and displace. Leave it as is to show where there’s not enough and use an uncut nozzle on the CT1 tube to inject more as required. 
 

For clean up use lots of cheap baby wipes. 2 passes and bin and go get another. Cleans up quickly and easily, if you don’t try to use the same wipe 10 times because you’re a tight arse.

 

Once cleaned back you apply more CT1 to the wall, one fat bead right around and just past the ends of the bath, then get a scraper and tool the wet CT1 onto the wall, spreading it so it contacts the previous goop and so it forms a 30-40mm skirt around as an upstand. 
 

Then one last wipe clean and then remove the pvc masking tape. Then leave 24hrs to cure. 

[YorkieSelfBuild]

51 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Legs just screw on, and most are compatible. Just don’t do what I did one fateful morning, and get your apprentice to pass you the short pan head screw you asked him for, and then switch off and fire in the longer one he gave you by mistake, as he was texting his girlfriend, and then shoot straight through the bottom of the bath.   

 

I always batten the wall, for flimsy baths, but it’s just good practice generally unless the bath comes with very good mounting brackets. 
 

B&Q type crap usually come with a couple of flimsy metal clips which are useless, these go in the bin.

 

Set the bath to the height and level, and push into place. Lean under and mark the X and Y on the internal corner of the underside of the bath edge, then same at each outer corner. Install the battens appx 100mm short of the ends of the bath to allow for panels to go on.

 

Set the battens 2mm lower than you need and then peel back the plastic protective wrap along the edges that meet the wall; only peel back over the edge and tape these down. Then get pvc electrical tape and mask the edges of the bath leaving none of the coat deck exposed. This is to allow you to CT1 the bath in, for it to be displaced and be tooled in for life, and then you peel the masking off before the sealant begins to cure.

 

Apply the CT1 (clear) to the top of the battens and put plenty on, that absorbs the 2mm set down of the battens. The bath flexes and drops very slightly when you fill it with water and add a human being, so the CT1 gives a little tolerance there. More CT1 goes on the wall, and very slightly above where the bath deck ends. 
 

Push the bath into position and wiggle it as much as you can to get the CT1 to take and displace. Leave it as is to show where there’s not enough and use an uncut nozzle on the CT1 tube to inject more as required. 
 

For clean up use lots of cheap baby wipes. 2 passes and bin and go get another. Cleans up quickly and easily, if you don’t try to use the same wipe 10 times because you’re a tight arse.

 

Once cleaned back you apply more CT1 to the wall, one fat bead right around and just past the ends of the bath, then get a scraper and tool the wet CT1 onto the wall, spreading it so it contacts the previous goop and so it forms a 30-40mm skirt around as an upstand. 
 

Then one last wipe clean and then remove the pvc masking tape. Then leave 24hrs to cure. 

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply. 

 

I'll ask the builders how they'll fit the bath to stop it moving as I'll be showering in it, then pass on your instructions. I can only hope they're open to learning 

[Nickfromwales]

6 minutes ago, YorkieSelfBuild said:

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply. 

 

I'll ask the builders how they'll fit the bath to stop it moving as I'll be showering in it, then pass on your instructions. I can only hope they're open to learning 

If these guys are on a price, then offer a few hours of extra dosh for them to do this the way you want. 
 

TBH if this detail is left out when you ask them to quote, then you cannot expect champagne work on lemonade money.

 

The one thing I would refuse to accept is them using silicone to set the bath in with. It degrades over time whereas a non silicone sealant such as CT1 will live forever and prevent slow leaks occurring over time/movement. 
 

CT1 is twice the price of decent silicone, 3-4 times more than cheap silicone, so offer to pay for or supply the CT1. 

[Iceverge]

https://www.obadis.com/en/villeroy-und-boch-rechteck-badewanne-ubq180lib2v-01-180-x-80-cm-weiss.html

 

It's made from "Quaral" whatever the hell that is. 

 

It's fine but standing in the narrow end is of limited enjoyment, too narrow. It holds a fantastic quantity of water too. 

 

I would just get a normal acrylic bath with a flat middle and put the shower head along the long wall next time. 

 

Bracing it properly underneath is about 90% of the battle of any bath I think.

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, Iceverge said:

It holds a fantastic quantity of water too

So many people don't consider just quite how much of a PITA these things are to fill, and just how much hot water is needed, plus I have sat in a few and I'm not short, and there's just no way to hold yourself comfortably in any other position than 'laid back and drowning'. I fitted one for a lady who was vertically challenged, and honestly she needed a lifeguard to be with her.

 

Just insane amount of water, and an age to fill up too, but god help you if you have a combi instead of a good UVC!!!.

[Kelvin]

Agreed. Ours is a bit deep. I warned the bath taker of the house but she was insistent. In her defence there’s been no moaning about it. 

[YorkieSelfBuild]

This seems good, encapsulated baseboard and GRP but way less than Carronite.

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/ceramica-single-ended-square-bath-with-side-and-end-panel-1700x700mm-762-1263778

42cm wide where I'd stand for showering but 185L capacity, same at that V&B bath Iceverge linked to. Is that too much?

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

19 minutes ago, YorkieSelfBuild said:

This seems good, encapsulated baseboard and GRP but way less than Carronite.

https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/ceramica-single-ended-square-bath-with-side-and-end-panel-1700x700mm-762-1263778

42cm wide where I'd stand for showering but 185L capacity, same at that V&B bath Iceverge linked to. Is that too much?

 

 

That's a perfectly fine and normal bath.