MortarThePoint Posted yesterday at 08:27 Posted yesterday at 08:27 Do people generally use a butt joint or mitre joint in the corners of the door stops a door lining?
ProDave Posted yesterday at 08:34 Posted yesterday at 08:34 For a house with mvhr I don't fit top door stops, just the two down the sides, so the question does not arise (except fire doors where they must be fitted) 1
Russell griffiths Posted yesterday at 08:54 Posted yesterday at 08:54 Butt join. top in first then the two sides. 1
garrymartin Posted yesterday at 08:58 Posted yesterday at 08:58 23 minutes ago, ProDave said: For a house with mvhr I don't fit top door stops, just the two down the sides, so the question does not arise (except fire doors where they must be fitted) Is that so that you can have a smaller gap at the bottom of the door, as the top will aid with the airflow requirements? Or for some other reason?
ProDave Posted yesterday at 09:11 Posted yesterday at 09:11 Not necessarily a smaller gap at the bottom, but I saw no point fitting a top door stop. But I was making my own door liners in Oak, and it saved on the amount of planed Oak I needed to buy for door stops. 1
ToughButterCup Posted yesterday at 10:05 Posted yesterday at 10:05 Butt. Because a butt joint was complicated enough for me. 1
MortarThePoint Posted yesterday at 13:11 Author Posted yesterday at 13:11 (edited) I need to fit before having the doors because the decorator is here and can paint along with the architrave, lining, etc. I don't have the doors yet. Can I trust the thickness specification of the door manufacturer? They're fd30 doors and 45mm thick ( most manufacturers do 44mm thick but Deanta are a tad thicker it seems). I was thinking to leave 1mm for 'paint' so recess the stops 46mm from Door lining surface. What do I do if the doors end up thinner or thicker? Edited yesterday at 13:11 by MortarThePoint
ProDave Posted yesterday at 14:01 Posted yesterday at 14:01 59 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: I need to fit before having the doors because the decorator is here and can paint along with the architrave, lining, etc. I don't have the doors yet. Can I trust the thickness specification of the door manufacturer? They're fd30 doors and 45mm thick ( most manufacturers do 44mm thick but Deanta are a tad thicker it seems). I was thinking to leave 1mm for 'paint' so recess the stops 46mm from Door lining surface. What do I do if the doors end up thinner or thicker? Aren't FD door liners supposed to have recessed grooves for over size door stops? (mine did) I always fit door stops at door hanging time, one less thing to line the doors up to. Instead line the door stops to the door.
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 14:10 Posted yesterday at 14:10 50 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: I need to fit before having the doors because the decorator is here and can paint along with the architrave, lining, etc. I don't have the doors yet. Can I trust the thickness specification of the door manufacturer? They're fd30 doors and 45mm thick ( most manufacturers do 44mm thick but Deanta are a tad thicker it seems). I was thinking to leave 1mm for 'paint' so recess the stops 46mm from Door lining surface. What do I do if the doors end up thinner or thicker? It’s a really bad idea to fit the stops before the doors are swung, like a REALLY bad idea, especially if they’re going to be painted into place. Don’t do it is my 2 cents.
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 14:12 Posted yesterday at 14:12 9 minutes ago, ProDave said: Aren't FD door liners supposed to have recessed grooves for over size door stops? (mine did) I always fit door stops at door hanging time, one less thing to line the doors up to. Instead line the door stops to the door. Yup. I put a 1mm packer in with oak, or a 2mm packer if it’s going to get a few coats of paint, resting the stops against the closed door (after latches fitted and fine tuned) then pinning them in place for life.
MortarThePoint Posted 23 hours ago Author Posted 23 hours ago 1 hour ago, ProDave said: I always fit door stops at door hanging time 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: It’s a really bad idea to fit the stops before the doors are swung, like a REALLY bad idea, especially if they’re going to be painted into place. Oh dear, I've made a mistake here then. Painter is in and busy painting and I am a while away from having doors on site let alone hung. I guess that leaves me these options: Fit the door stops where I hope they should be and let the painter at them Have the door linings painted along with the architrave and skirting, then fit painted door stops later and hope the joint can then be tidily painted over to make the join disappear Somehow not paint the door lining face (i.e. the bit shown red below)
Nickfromwales Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago 1 hour ago, MortarThePoint said: Oh dear, I've made a mistake here then. Painter is in and busy painting and I am a while away from having doors on site let alone hung. I guess that leaves me these options: Fit the door stops where I hope they should be and let the painter at them Have the door linings painted along with the architrave and skirting, then fit painted door stops later and hope the joint can then be tidily painted over to make the join disappear Somehow not paint the door lining face (i.e. the bit shown red below) Option 2 prob best, but will need the stop and the red area painting again to blend in satisfactorily imo.
G and J Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago Hmmmm. Many things to think on. @ProDave No door stop above door - does that not leave it looking a bit ‘unfinished’? No offence intended. I like the idea of full depth door stops (possibly not a brilliant way to describe them) but presumably they require the door to be fitted to the pre-made door recess. I’m ok at hanging doors generally but will that make it super difficult? Can one buy adjustable mortice plates?
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