Garage floor paint/resin/epoxy resin

[saveasteading]

3 hours ago, BotusBuild said:

the foundation slab,

That's different. I'm sitting now in what will be oug garage and it has a very agricultural floor.

I don't see why we need to improve it  for garden stuff, a mower and maybe even a car to sit on.

If I too engines apart that would be different.

My man cave in the corner will get some marmox on it, then levelled with latex and then... I think a floor of many colours,  using leftover tiles*.

6" pir in the walls and ceiling of the boxout. Electric, probably infrared, heating.

 

* there's a thing... I have boxes and stacks of spare tiles sitting in the shed "just in case". You can be sure that heavy iron pots have been dropped in the kitchen, and that floors have moved. No tile has broken , ever.

 

They might if there was  grotty workmanship on the dot and dab principle, but the adhesive contact is total and loads go straight to the screed.

Tile if you want, using those free tiles that will take up space until you move.

[Nickfromwales]

45 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:

UFH loops in the slab already with 100mm PIR underneath 😀

Mini bar?

[Andeh]

With UFH you need to assume constant heat to make the most of it, otherwise a cold slab just takes too long for weekend working.

 

We put in two over sizes radiators, on their own zone off the ASHP. With insulation all round (except the slab), and within an hour it's toasty warm for that sudden bout of working or playing on there!

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, Andeh said:

With UFH you need to assume constant heat to make the most of it, otherwise a cold slab just takes too long for weekend working.

 

We put in two over sizes radiators, on their own zone off the ASHP. With insulation all round (except the slab), and within an hour it's toasty warm for that sudden bout of working or playing on there!

Timer to come on as setback; can deliver the temps you want, when you want them, and switch off midday Sunday to allow the space to be heated residually until cold. 

[BotusBuild]

What is this talk of only using at weekends? Blasphemy!

 

Probably just have a Willis heater and timer setup on a 12C setback temp, with a 15C working temp.

 

Did I mention the proposed 4 post lift 🙂 

Edited Friday at 16:58 by BotusBuild

[Roger440]

43 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:

What is this talk of only using at weekends? Blasphemy!

 

Probably just have a Willis heater and timer setup on a 12C setback temp, with a 15C working temp.

 

Did I mention the proposed 4 post lift 🙂 

Just a 4 poster?

 

You need a 2 and a 4...........................

 

However, warm it isnt. Still to many options and decisions. And not enough money

 

[Dan F]

Depends what you'll use garage for, but if the floor is reasonably flat swisstrax is an option worth considering.  It worked out cheaper and easier than epoxy for us (in part because we didn't need to grind/prep the slab), and it looks fantastic too.

 

There are a couple of caveats you have to weigh up with it though.
- Doesn't need much cleaning because of how it's designed, but dust does accumulate underneath it.
- You don't want to drop anything very small on the floor! Also water goes through it (which may or may not be a good thing)
- Not that confortable walking in socks (there is another models which this isn't an issue with though, although it accumulate more dust due to flat surfaces).

On the flip-side, you can pull it up to clean underneath it you want,change the design or replace damaged tiles, things don't bounce off it etc.

 

Edited yesterday at 03:54 by Dan F

[BotusBuild]

15 hours ago, Roger440 said:

Just a 4 poster?

 

You need a 2 and a 4...........................

 

However, warm it isnt. Still to many options and decisions. And not enough money

 

Love the exhaust and radiator setup on the orange triumph 😀

[-rick-]

15 hours ago, Roger440 said:

However, warm it isnt. Still to many options and decisions. And not enough money

 

Well that's a much more substantial workshop than I was expecting from your previous posts. Barn vs 2/3 car garage.

 

To cost effectively make that space warm? Build a room within the room for the work area and heat/cool that, don't heat/cool the storage. Even a large tent that you can move about if needed to contain the air of the area you are working would help.

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, BotusBuild said:

Love the exhaust and radiator setup on the orange triumph 😀

A temporary solution whilst we were suffering from this heatwave 😂

[saveasteading]

3 hours ago, -rick- said:

much more substantial workshop

I wouldn't recommend space heating except for any enclosed workshop.

Infra red heating pointing at work- forces, or even on a trolley  for very local benefit.

It's standard in the vehicle industry buildings  I've done and I think pretty well everywhere... to the extent of doors being left open.

Eg in big shed retailers and esp garden centre checkouts you may see heating directed at the person. In garages it may point down on the bonnet or under the raised vehicle.

 

Presumably you'd use electricity but there are gas methods too.

[Roger440]

22 hours ago, -rick- said:

 

Well that's a much more substantial workshop than I was expecting from your previous posts. Barn vs 2/3 car garage.

 

To cost effectively make that space warm? Build a room within the room for the work area and heat/cool that, don't heat/cool the storage. Even a large tent that you can move about if needed to contain the air of the area you are working would help.

 

Ive partly done/doing that. At the back (centre of pic) are the double doors into my "clean room". That fully insulated (apart from floor)

 

The area under the mezz will recieve the same treatment with an insulated door on the front opening. That will be the "dirty room" for weding, fabrication, painting etc.

 

But the main part of the workshop with the ramps, which is where i spend a good chunk of time doesnt lend itself to further subdivision, especially with the entrance door where it is. Ulitmately i need to sort out the roof as its just single skin fibre cement. So any heating just disappears. The walls are cavity block.

 

The only sensible answer is either spray foam (expensive), but 27 of the roof sheets are cracked (mostly due to overtightening on install (!!!) so that needs fixing first. Or put another insulated steel roof on the inside. (more expensive) Replacing the whole roof is beyond expensive!

 

[Roger440]

19 hours ago, saveasteading said:

I wouldn't recommend space heating except for any enclosed workshop.

Infra red heating pointing at work- forces, or even on a trolley  for very local benefit.

It's standard in the vehicle industry buildings  I've done and I think pretty well everywhere... to the extent of doors being left open.

Eg in big shed retailers and esp garden centre checkouts you may see heating directed at the person. In garages it may point down on the bonnet or under the raised vehicle.

 

Presumably you'd use electricity but there are gas methods too.

 

All correct. And whilst good in a commercial environment and enough to satisfy the law, its not really what im looking for. This is purely a hobby. If im cold, i wont enjoy it, so becomes pointless. Ive spent enough of my working life in cold workshop environments, even with various forms of heating to know i need better.

 

My long term target is to maintain it through winter at 12c. 12c is ok if you are working. 2c or less, not so much. But until i sort the roof out, everything else is pointless.

Edited 5 hours ago by Roger440