I've noticed some gaps and blobs which I believe are referred to as snots. 

 

Would this cause any issues to the strength of the wall. The outer side is generally neat and tidy, but there are parts of the inside like this where there are some small gaps and snots.

 

I get nobody sees the inside, but want to understand if it could be a problem? 

 

I am going to query it with the builders, but would like to know what I am talking about before I do. 

 

Another photo. 

Not the best but it will be fine.  Are the bricks Forum Smoked Branco?  The mortar goes well with them.

Thanks the bricks are Vandersanden Quartis, we got them from Germany. 

 

I was worried we may have problems later down the line.. 

I would worry that if that’s the quality of the brickwork, then what’s the quality of the insulation fitting and other details. 
show us the pointed side. 

This is the other side. It's still was drying in this photo. 

It'll be fine. 

 

I hope you're using full fill EPS beads or mineral wool batts. 

Joints should be solidly filled with mortar.

Not fully filling joints means the outer skin is less effective against moisture penetration.

 

Excess mortar should be struck flush and droppings should be removed from the cavity.

 

What insulation are you using as this effects how important this is?

 

There doesn't appear to be many wall ties in the photos.

28 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

It'll be fine. 

 

I hope you're using full fill EPS beads or mineral wool batts. 

Do you mean insulation? They are using recticel boards 90mm.

6 minutes ago, EdHat said:

Joints should be solidly filled with mortar.

Not fully filling joints means the outer skin is less effective against moisture penetration.

 

Excess mortar should be struck flush and droppings should be removed from the cavity.

 

What insulation are you using as this effects how important this is?

 

There doesn't appear to be many wall ties in the photos.

They are using recticel 90mm insulation boards. 

Any pics of the board install? 

 

It's very tricky to do well. In fact I don't think it's actually possible in real life. Batts and EPS beads are almost fool proof by comparison. 

 

What is the remaining cavity depth after the boards?

3 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

Any pics of the board install? 

 

It's very tricky to do well. In fact I don't think it's actually possible in real life. Batts and EPS beads are almost fool proof by comparison. 

 

What is the remaining cavity depth after the boards?

I think 10mm was mentioned. 

In that case I would have expected them to build the inner leaf first and then set the insulation boards clipping them tight to the inner leaf. How exactly are they fitting them at the moment?

 

In my view they should be foamed to the inner blockwork, to eachother, around the wall ties, the foam trimmed and then all joints and exposed edges taped with foil tape. I've never seen it done though. 

They did the block wall 1st then attached the board and then outer wall. They used the metal ties to attach the insulation to. 

In your pictures the brickwork is higher than the blocks, they should build the blockwork up, installing ties as they go, the insulation goes onto the blocks with good detail, joints tight and even taped, then the brickwork goes up. 
 

poor detail now will lead to poor performance later. 

They/you both need to understand how the insulation works here to get the best performance for your wall, the recticel board and inner block need to act as one, so insulation board tight to the block please, if there are gaps between board and block then draughts in the cavity will wick the any heat you put into the structure away from the blockwork.  Don't be afraid to speak to your guys about this, now, it's not too late to rectify.

It's not good work but unfortunately normal.

The extra snotty snots at the corner will prevent the insulation fitting tidily. They should be knocked off and removed along with the bottom heap.

The internal mortar gaps are inexcusable too. They are part of the strength airtightness and rain resistance.

Seems to be a bit random. Enough ties?

Can we see it from above?

54 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

They/you both need to understand how the insulation works here to get the best performance for your wall, the recticel board and inner block need to act as one, so insulation board tight to the block please, if there are gaps between board and block then draughts in the cavity will wick the any heat you put into the structure away from the blockwork.  Don't be afraid to speak to your guys about this, now, it's not too late to rectify.

Thanks, as we are going double storey and they've only built upto just under single storey so far, is it easily rectified? Or does the wall need to come down? 

 

Does building control check it's been installed properly? Or is it difficult for them to check, once both walls are up? 

Building control wont care. It's been done on every street in the country for too long. 

 

The easiest method of rectification is probably to inject or pour some closed cell foam outside the insulation to seal it to the inner leaf and take care of all the gaps. 

 

You could bollock the builders and get them to repeat the work they've done but there's no guarantee they'll do it better the next time.

 

It's a flawed design in my book but a very common one. 

 

22 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

Building control wont care. It's been done on every street in the country for too long. 

 

The easiest method of rectification is probably to inject or pour some closed cell foam outside the insulation to seal it to the inner leaf and take care of all the gaps. 

 

You could bollock the builders and get them to repeat the work they've done but there's no guarantee they'll do it better the next time.

 

It's a flawed design in my book but a very common one. 

 

I think I am going to have to have a chat with the builders. Just trying to arm myself with all the information so I know what I am talking about, otherwise they may just tell me everything is fine. 

Doesn't look to be in accordance with manufacturers instructions or BBA Certificate especially the use DPC at corners. Take it down and rebuild.

There is a gap here due to the insulation from a cross section pushing against this piece. 

here's the MI's  - page 9 up to you and your builder to decide whether installation instructions have been followed.

Cavity Wall Specification Guide Recticel Insulation.pdf

Thank you. The builder said it should be fine... He's outsourced the bricklaying, but i dont think he's QC'ed it. 

 

I'm meeting him on site tomorrow, when the bricklayers are back.. I will print this off and ask him to look at it, I'm sure he will agree, that it's not fully to this spec. 

Is this an extension or a new house. 
if it’s a new house then stop work now and get this stuff sorted out.