Matt Morton Posted Saturday at 11:21 Share Posted Saturday at 11:21 So we are just starting first fix on our new build. Construction is solar blocks with cavity (and 130mm PIR in cavity). external is a mix of wood cladding and flint blocks. We are trying to achieve good airtightness levels (1-2?) (and we were I think pretty diligent in sealing the PIR at all joins with aluminium tape and foam where needed) - though not aiming for passive house- for MVHR system to be effective (and to make the most of the triple glazed window investment!). My main questions are: 1. do we need to parge coat the inside of the external blockwork walls 2. Is there a recommended preference between batten and plasterboard or dot and dab (do either route make airtightness easier to achieve) 3. Is it better to wet skim the plasterboard on the external walls rather than just taping and filling joints - from an airtightness perspective. Understand this is a somewhat well trod discussion path , but be interested in latest (and simplest ) thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Morton Posted Saturday at 11:40 Author Share Posted Saturday at 11:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted Saturday at 11:53 Share Posted Saturday at 11:53 Welcome to the forum. I would suggest wet plaster. Or failing that a parge coat and a battened service cavity. (You can put more wool insulation in here too) Dot and dab isn't a good idea for airtightness. The airtightness game is won or lost by the time you get to taping and jointing/skimming as the plasterboard will have so many top and bottom edges and holes it'll make no difference what you do. How much of a residual cavity have you left beside the PIR? I wouldn't be a great fan. I have 2 neighbours who filled the residual cavity with closed cell foam to some success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted Saturday at 17:24 Share Posted Saturday at 17:24 Dot and dab is fine if done correctly with a continuous bead of adhesive all around the perimeter of each board, then wet plaster skim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted Saturday at 18:06 Share Posted Saturday at 18:06 Why not get an airtest done before you plaster and see what your looking at. I did a test at watertight stage to see what I was missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted Saturday at 18:28 Share Posted Saturday at 18:28 7 hours ago, Matt Morton said: So we are just starting first fix on our new build. Construction is solar blocks with cavity (and 130mm PIR in cavity). external is a mix of wood cladding and flint blocks. We are trying to achieve good airtightness levels (1-2?) (and we were I think pretty diligent in sealing the PIR at all joins with aluminium tape and foam where needed) - though not aiming for passive house- for MVHR system to be effective (and to make the most of the triple glazed window investment!). My main questions are: 1. do we need to parge coat the inside of the external blockwork walls 2. Is there a recommended preference between batten and plasterboard or dot and dab (do either route make airtightness easier to achieve) 3. Is it better to wet skim the plasterboard on the external walls rather than just taping and filling joints - from an airtightness perspective. Understand this is a somewhat well trod discussion path , but be interested in latest (and simplest ) thinking. Fit and dab is fine When sealed properly Dont waste your money at Parge coat There’s only self builders that seem to bother with now Instead make sure the block work is properly pointed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted Saturday at 22:10 Share Posted Saturday at 22:10 10 hours ago, Iceverge said: I would suggest wet plaster. Me too, for the quality of the finish as much as anything else (provided you find a good plasterer). However well dot & dab is done, you're guaranteed to see the joints in at least some lighting conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted Saturday at 22:59 Share Posted Saturday at 22:59 45 minutes ago, Mike said: However well dot & dab is done, you're guaranteed to see the joints in at least some lighting conditions. That should read "tape & joint" aka dry-lined, as that doesn't have a wet plaster coat. Dot & dab is how the boards are affixed to the underlaying wall and taped and filled joints are the ones always visible forever aka 'shart'. I can recommend a fantastic plasterer in the Coventry and surrounding areas (he'll drive an hour or so). PM me for details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted Saturday at 23:03 Share Posted Saturday at 23:03 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Dot & dab is how the boards are affixed to the underlaying wall and taped and filled joints are the ones always visible forever aka 'shart' Spit on! I shouldn't rely to stuff at this time of the night... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 00:19 Share Posted yesterday at 00:19 1 hour ago, Mike said: Spit on! I shouldn't rely to stuff at this time of the night... No need to spit on it, just sand gently and paint 🤣 It's Saturday night ffs, and if anyone's posting here whilst sober I want their name, rank and number so they can get a proper bollocking. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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