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Awkward boss strap leak


Pocster

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You pair of bumders are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. @Pocster

get your tube of tiger seal and squirt a great big blob of it onto a board, put one of your best latex gloves on and get that stuff slapped on, no gun needed no bendy farking tube. 
when it’s proper lubed up get a sponge and dip it in white spirit, smooth that bad boy jizm out with the sponge. 
winner winner chicken dinner. 

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7 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

You pair of bumders are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. @Pocster

get your tube of tiger seal and squirt a great big blob of it onto a board, put one of your best latex gloves on and get that stuff slapped on, no gun needed no bendy farking tube. 
when it’s proper lubed up get a sponge and dip it in white spirit, smooth that bad boy jizm out with the sponge. 
winner winner chicken dinner. 

You say it how it is 😉

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Filled up the sink . Let it all go in one ; so pump is busy . Ran round , up ladder - watched . Saw 1 drip - couldn’t see exactly where it came from .

As this has been fine for 2 yrs I think it is the pump causing the pipe to vibrate / thud and hence weakening any seal . Could ( once I’ve smeared more tiger seal round the joint ) maybe clamp the white waste pipe to something to restrict any ‘bump’ movement 

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Reducing vibration is a good idea anyway but the seal is obviously broken and IMO will only get worse. Preventative work (replace it) will give you peace of mind for the future and you can crack on with the millions of other jobs on your to do list. 😇

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3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Reducing vibration is a good idea anyway but the seal is obviously broken and IMO will only get worse. Preventative work (replace it) will give you peace of mind for the future and you can crack on with the millions of other jobs on your to do list. 😇

You really want me to do this don’t you ! 🤣

I’ll tiger seal it again . Then when it leaks again I’ll get a plumber in to do it ; will tell him some cowboy (expletive deleted)ed it up !

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39 minutes ago, Pocster said:

You really want me to do this don’t you ! 🤣

Yes I do, I believe in doing things right (first time if possible) tell you what, when you want to do it I will come over to

Bristol and give you a hand if you want. Can’t do more than that bud. 😎

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I know you've got your fancy ceiling and you can get access to that joint whenever, but, surely that bit of waste and soil pipe will nag away at you until it's right?  The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe, unless you have one of those chamfering gadgets of course.

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11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Yes I do, I believe in doing things right (first time if possible) tell you what, when you want to do it I will come over to

Bristol and give you a hand if you want. Can’t do more than that bud. 😎

🙃 I'll prepare a big list of jobs for you! 

 

Seriously; very kind offer of you @joe90

Edited by Pocster
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2 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

I know you've got your fancy ceiling and you can get access to that joint whenever, but, surely that bit of waste and soil pipe will nag away at you until it's right?  The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe, unless you have one of those chamfering gadgets of course.

Yep. I'll hear that 'drip' at some point in the future for sure......

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1 minute ago, crispy_wafer said:

normally takes me two, always chalk the first go to my apprenticeship before giving myself a bollocking, and doing it so at least it looks right...

I did do it right first time. It was just that its life span was 2 years....

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14 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

The only issue I forsee in fixing that is chamfering the 4" pipe all round if you wanted to use push connectors instead of solweld on the 4" pipe,

No reason to remove the 4” pipe at all, that stays in place, it’s the strap on (no pocster, not that sort!!!!) boss that needs to be removed and replaced along with a short section of the 32mm pipe.

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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Solvent weld. You could use this as it's thicker than the normal "brush in the tin" type stuff. As in if the strap on doesn't quite fit tight around the pipe. 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polypipe-GFC100-FILLING-CEMENT-NATURAL/dp/B009NEC3IQ/ref=asc_df_B009NEC3IQ?

That sounds good, definite contender. Take note @Pocster

Edited by joe90
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26 minutes ago, joe90 said:

No reason to remove the 4” pipe at all, that stays in place, it’s the strap on (no pocster, not that sort!!!!) boss that needs to be removed and replaced along with a short section of the 32mm pipe.

aah, i was under the impression that the boss was welded, which failed then covered with gunk to fix.  Ok my mistake, cool.

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5 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

aah, i was under the impression that the boss was welded, which failed then covered with gunk to fix.  Ok my mistake, cool.

Hang on ! It was welded ( I think ) - then gunked . I might be wrong was some years ago … 🙄

 

If welded and gunked will it come off nicely ???

 

🤔

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16 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Solvent weld. You could use this as it's thicker than the normal "brush in the tin" type stuff. As in if the strap on doesn't quite fit tight around the pipe. 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polypipe-GFC100-FILLING-CEMENT-NATURAL/dp/B009NEC3IQ/ref=asc_df_B009NEC3IQ?

Does this dry in 7 seconds like normal solvent glue ?

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26 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Hang on ! It was welded ( I think ) - then gunked . I might be wrong was some years ago … 🙄

 

If welded and gunked will it come off nicely ???

 

🤔

I've been avoiding this thread up to now as I'm not sure I ever want to comment on @Pocster's strap-on but oh well.....

 

I would've thought that if it the strap-on boss was welded previously then it won't come off, right? 

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4 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

I've been avoiding this thread up to now as I'm not sure I ever want to comment on @Pocster's strap-on but oh well.....

 

I would've thought that if it the strap-on boss was welded previously then it won't come off, right? 

This is what I’m wondering . I can’t remember if welded and then tiger seal when it leaked OR just tiger seal ( so would come off ) 

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2 minutes ago, Pocster said:

This is what I’m wondering . I can’t remember if welded and then tiger seal when it leaked OR just tiger seal ( so would come off ) 

I'm pretty sure that you were the one who told me to grow a pair and solvent weld everything when I was going to use push fit as well 🤣.

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1 minute ago, Thorfun said:

I'm pretty sure that you were the one who told me to grow a pair and solvent weld everything when I was going to use push fit as well 🤣.

I probably used tiger seal because it gives me more than 7 seconds of play . I had problems before on other pipework where it was impossible to solvent weld conventionally - just can’t get it all in and lined up in those 7 seconds .

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11 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

I'm pretty sure that you were the one who told me to grow a pair and solvent weld everything when I was going to use push fit as well 🤣.

Google suggests a multi tool and cut it out - then sand /file around the hole ( guess it would now have a good key ) . Often the cement as @Onoff mentioned gets used . Think that gives a better seal rather than runny thin glue .

As the 2nd wrongly placed boss looks definitely like it’s been tiger sealed ; I’ll assume this one also .

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15 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Google suggests a multi tool and cut it out - then sand /file around the hole ( guess it would now have a good key ) . Often the cement as @Onoff mentioned gets used . Think that gives a better seal rather than runny thin glue .

As the 2nd wrongly placed boss looks definitely like it’s been tiger sealed ; I’ll assume this one also .

good luck!

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