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I’m just completing the plastering on a site The spec was to use these box covers At a cost of about 30 k for the whole site Zero patching around boxes and Electrian’s love them 

Will they catch on Is anyone’s guess 

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So sockets utterly flush with the wall around them?

 

Interesting.... Any images of what they could look like finished? We spent £1.50 ish on ours because our shit head of an electric recommended them be a use that's what he used in his house. As he wired his kitchen, likely with us paying for his materials....

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I have not tried them myself, and personally I don't have an issue with standard good quality dry lining boxes like Appleby (some other inferior makes of dry lining box can be dire)

 

How do these fit into the plasterboard?  Do they clip in and then the plaster skims over them to give a flush finish?  Or is the plaster skim all that holds them on place?

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52 minutes ago, Andehh said:

Can't help but think a stiff plug being pulled out is asking for Plaster cracks?

No cracks 

Plaster over them and after a couple of days the plaster shells off 

The electrician removed the two small screws and centre plate and the rest remains 

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They're not a replacement for the backbox or dry-lining box - they go over the top to make plastering easier and, when then cut out, the hole left much cleaner. See https://www.beadmaster.co.uk/ and you'll quickly get the idea.

 

£1.50ish for a single gang and £2.20ish for a double with further discounts in bulk. They also do a downlight version now.

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12 minutes ago, garrymartin said:

They're not a replacement for the backbox or dry-lining box - they go over the top to make plastering easier and, when then cut out, the hole left much cleaner. See https://www.beadmaster.co.uk/ and you'll quickly get the idea.

 

£1.50ish for a single gang and £2.20ish for a double with further discounts in bulk. They also do a downlight version now.

Ah I see, thank you.  Using these would mean using rear supported backboxes, so they won’t work for me, so I’ll stick to the normally Appleby type dry lining boxes and I saw some cardboard jobbies to stop the backbox filling with pug on here which I though were a brilliant idea. 

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If you have the time, once you've cut the pb out for the dry lining box then paint the cut edge with PVA and let it dry. It really does hold it all together and "harden" the exposed edge for the future. I use my multi tool now rather than a pad saw as an aside. 

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4 hours ago, Onoff said:

If you have the time, once you've cut the pb out for the dry lining box then paint the cut edge with PVA and let it dry. It really does hold it all together and "harden" the exposed edge for the future. I use my multi tool now rather than a pad saw as an aside. 

 Multi tools are far better. I have even used a home made depth restrictor to only cut through the plaster board and not cut proud cables behind it. I  also cut out the hole size in a piece of hardboard to use as a pencil jig and use it with my laser level to mark positions on walls. I then have a quick level rectangle drawn on the wall ready to cut using the multitool and vacuum.

 

If its soft block behind the plasterboard I use the multitool on that as well...

 

Every day is a school day. Like the PVA idea.

Edited by Marvin
further thought
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