Open Faced Cladding - Batten SPEC?

[Duncan62]

Help please!

I have spec'd open face cladding - what USE CLASS specification should the batten and cross battens be?

 

I am concerned I require UC3 treated wood (pressure treated to push preservative into the wood), and not UC2 which is easily available (green treated timber that is dipped, not pressure treated. i.e. roofing battens).

 

Because open cladding means the battens will be subject to constant moisture - I think UC3 should be spec'd?

 

Correct?

 

Further info: https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/assets/uploads/files/treatment/tanalith-e-suppliers-guide.pdf

 

 

Then we can get into actually finding this UC3 wood in sized like 25x50mm, 50x50mm or 50x100mm, I cant find it anywhere.

[Duncan62]

@ToughButterCup

 

@the_r_sole

 

@Gary M

 

@markocosic

 

@Dave Jones

 

@joe90

 

what did you guys use for the battens please?

[joe90]

UC3 Would be my choice fir longevity 

[Duncan62]

Appreciate that. And I agree.

 

Finding it in non fencing sizes is not easy however.

 

Also about 4x the cost. 

 

Pragmatism won out. UC2 used. End grain sealer on cut ends. DPM paint on top of the horizontal surfaces.

[AdTee]

On 20/11/2024 at 13:16, Duncan62 said:

Appreciate that. And I agree.

 

Finding it in non fencing sizes is not easy however.

 

Also about 4x the cost. 

 

Pragmatism won out. UC2 used. End grain sealer on cut ends. DPM paint on top of the horizontal surfaces.

Hi @Duncan62 . Apologies, resurrecting an old thread here. I'm in a similar position to you albeit with steel rainscreen cladding and I've just read this article against using UC2 roofing battens for cladding.
https://timberindustryservices.co.uk/timber-cladding-battens-dont-risk-using-the-wrong-type/

Are you still happy with your choice of UC2 and DPM paint? My concern is that fencing battens wouldn't be as reliably strong or straight to use for standing seam cladding.

Thanks. Adam.

Edited 11 hours ago by AdTee
added link

[Duncan62]

I agree with the article while heartedly. 

If I could have sourced UC3 timber, is have used it. 

 

However, issues: 

 

Firstly, suppliers (at least near me) have NO IDEA about different class ratings for timber treatment - they will all say "yes yes it's pressure treated" which means nothing, it's definitely UC2.

 

Secondly, practically speaking as a novice self builder trying to do it properly, I couldn't not find a single supplier for 2x2 UC3 near me. What I cold find was the other side of the country and 4x the cost.

 

I agree, fencing batten not any good for a building.

 

So practically won. I got standard UC2. Barn painted it black and then, when fitted, went round with DPM paint and painted the top surface to guard against standing water as best I could. We are nearly 18 months in and (as you would expect) so far so good. If there are to be any issues, they will be after 10+ years is my guess. Fingers crossed I've done enough for it to last as long as the thermowood.

[Gus Potter]

On 13/11/2024 at 10:27, Duncan62 said:

Help please!

I have spec'd open face cladding - what USE CLASS specification should the batten and cross battens be?

 

I am concerned I require UC3 treated wood (pressure treated to push preservative into the wood), and not UC2 which is easily available (green treated timber that is dipped, not pressure treated. i.e. roofing battens).

 

Because open cladding means the battens will be subject to constant moisture - I think UC3 should be spec'd?

 

Correct?

Ah.. I appreciate your dilemma, this stuff is not common bedtime reading!

 

To help best, can you post a drawing of the wall construction details, with notes. Don't give us a "half drawing" I'm not interested in drawing your teeth or being a detective, give us it worts and all. 

 

I assume your cladding is vertical? If not it's a different animal, but still can be designed.

 

There is actually a huge amount to consider here, but fundamentally, once you understand how each element of the cladding build up works and interacts it's remarkably simple and you'll end up thinking.. that is so easy! if it's well explained to you.. which some of us will endeavour to do for you. 

 

If you post a DETAILED drawing of the whole wall make up then myself and others will be able to explain what is relevant to you, how it works (have a quick check you are not doing something daft in terms of the whole wall) , the timber service classes you require, fixings, suggest best options, things to avoid, where you can maybe source what you need at sensible cost and arm you with the questions that you need to ask a supplier.