Jawbkk Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 I have recently had some plumbing work done for central heating. The pipes shown are for three radiators, 2 upstairs and one routing to a downstairs radiator. I would be grateful for any thoughts on this installation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 I am assuming from the way he has cut blocks to fill the gap, that the notches in the joists were there already? It looks like a good job, a metal cover plate to stop nails or screws going into the pipe, recessed so the boards go down nicely, and a little bit of insulation so the pipes won't click and bang as they heat and cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawbkk Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 Thanks ProDave. I cut the wood blocks as over the years, plumbers had cut the notches excessively. Fortunately a structural engineer did some calcs to confirm given the span of the beams, the meat remaining in the joist was OK. I put the blocks in to give some land for the floorboards to be screwed into. Now I can;t do that through the metal!! Was thinking of putting some wood either side of the notches so I can have something to screw into. I don;t want the floorboards to creek and have to lift them up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 Post a picture of how the floorboard joint will land with regards the notch so we can see the issue. It sounds like you need to get a screw closer to the pipes than the plate will allow, if doing that you have to be SURE you miss the pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawbkk Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 I will put some timber on the joists about 30cm long 10 cm deep approx 25mm thick. The notch will be 20mm deep and 50mm wide so as close to the pipes as possible. I mark everything so make sure I clear the notch by 15mm. At least this to ensure the screw wont be too close to the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 As @ProDave says. Make a sketch now of the distances from skirting to plates and pipes. It's easy to forget. Post it on here for comment and it won't get lost either. There will be a solution with noggins or similar. Or using a wider or narrower board so that they are jumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 Very neat No need to insulate Plumbers don’t normally take that much care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 (edited) Yes a really neat job, but being the devils advocate I would have drilled holes centrally in the joists and threaded the, pipes through them (which you can do with plastic but not copper), then filled the existing notches fully so floor boards can be secured. (Sorry). I am a convert to plastic this being one of the many reasons. Edited November 9 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 24 minutes ago, joe90 said: Yes a really neat job, but being the devils advocate I would have drilled holes centrally in the joists and threaded the, pipes through them (which you can do with plastic but not copper), then filled the existing notches fully so floor boards can be secured. (Sorry). I am a convert to plastic this being one of the many reasons. I’m guessing that there was already cut outs there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawbkk Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 Yes, already cut-outs. (or notches) Personally I would have done it in copper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 45 minutes ago, Jawbkk said: Yes, already cut-outs. (or notches) Personally I would have done it in copper. Why ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andehh Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 Plastic is the right approach, and insulting them as they pass through the wood is a great idea! Drove my mad in my first house when they didn't do this, and every morning it's wake me up as the heating came on. Really bugged me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 They’ve used JG Speedfit, and as always there are no circlips installed behind the collars….. This is why I only use Hep2O (Wavin Hepworth) push fit in every permanent installation I do, and have done so for the last decade. JG has the ingenious flaw of slowly undoing itself over time, and this will be 20X more of a concern with heating as it’s going hot-cool-hot-cool so will expand and contract for the rest of its serviceable life. Get the circlips (collets) LINK fitted before the boards go back down and sleep soundly. Copper is king, always will be, but modern push fit is perfectly acceptable when installed CORRECTLY. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 9 Share Posted November 9 23 minutes ago, Andehh said: and insulting them I always swear at the (expletive deleted)ers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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