Dust collection for handheld power tools

[RichyB2024]

Hello

 

I recently purchased a Bosch GET-150 turbo sander which I am very happy with. 
 

Bosch recommended the GAS 35 M for extraction as it has the correct connector, however it is £600 and some of the reviews say it has poor suction after a short amount of use. 
 

My question is: does anyone have experience with this sander and connecting it to different types of extractors. I have a V-TUF M class which is pretty solid and I was thinking I could just buy the Bosch hose and connect it that way.
 

I’m not against paying £400-£500 for the right machine though, so if a Festool or Mirka extractor can be adapted to fit my Bosch sander I would definitely consider it. 
 

Cheers

 

Rich

[Onoff]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cen-Tec-Systems-Extraction-Compatible-Milwaukee/dp/B084DGYSJW/ref=asc_df_B084DGYSJW/?

[Mike]

If you'll be making lots of dust, it may also be worth putting a cyclone separator (eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/VEVOR-Separator-Retrofit-Collectors-Connector/dp/B0DBYZH4V) between the sander and the vacuum to save on filters & vacuum bags.

[RichyB2024]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cen-Tec-Systems-Extraction-Compatible-Milwaukee/dp/B084DGYSJW/ref=asc_df_B084DGYSJW/?

thanks for this. I have looked at this before but didn’t realise they were Bosch compatible 

 

any idea what extractor it’s compatible with for the other end? E.g. festool, mirka etc. 

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, RichyB2024 said:

thanks for this. I have looked at this before but didn’t realise they were Bosch compatible 

 

any idea what extractor it’s compatible with for the other end? E.g. festool, mirka etc. 

 

No idea, sorry. I just get my lad to 3D print adapters. 

 

Item page says this:

 

"Adaptor set is only compatible with 32mm threaded crush proof hose, common with domestic home vacuums and many fine dust extraction vacuums"

[RichyB2024]

So I went with Trend T33A M class and Cen-etc adaptors. Will update when I’ve tested it all. 

Edited November 8, 2024 by RichyB2024

[RichyB2024]

Initial test is extremely positive. Comes with rubber adaptor for power tools so cen-tec adaptors not required. Good suction even through the (cheap) 5m hose supplies. The auto-start is an excellent feature. Why anyone would pay 3x more I don’t know

[markharro]

I have a couple of questions on a similar topic. Currently engaged in sanding filler in Fermacell boards and its already a job from hell......but even worse there is basically zero suction from my Mirka sander....this is connected - via a 4 metre (crazy expensive) Mirka hose to the 3m or so hose on my V-Tuf mini vacuum. 

 

I thought I might need a new bag but changed it and still no good. The filter is clean. So what is the issue? I bought the V-Tuf as it was the cheapest M class vacuum available but is it maybe underpowered for this job? Is the overall hose length too long? 

 

Is so would the solution be ditching the Mirka hose and trying to find some sort of adaptor to connect the Mirka straight to the vacuum hose? Thanks

[zzPaulzz]

That’s a long run of hose. I’m no expert but your problem may be down to that, and/or the suction from your extractor. Sorry, probably not told you any thing you didn’t know. I’ve just sold my soul for a Dewalt extractor… 

[markharro]

I suspect tomorrow I'll be on the phone to V-Tuf and Mirka tech support to try to work out what's going on - ATM just getting enveloped in clouds of dust and contemplating throwing the tools out of the window!

[Nickfromwales]

9 minutes ago, markharro said:

Currently engaged in sanding filler in Fermacell boards and its already a job from hell......

Do yourself a huge favour, and get it skimmed. 
 

The pain of doing Fermacell is excruciating, and the walls show the areas you’ve sanded unless you then skim them over with a finer, more synthetic filler such as Tupret.

 

You have my sympathy if you’re sanding a whole house of this. 

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, markharro said:

I suspect tomorrow I'll be on the phone to V-Tuf and Mirka tech support to try to work out what's going on - ATM just getting enveloped in clouds of dust and contemplating throwing the tools out of the window!

My client in Gravenhill used FC and the guy who offered to prep and sand on day rate was there forever, and went through about 5 or 6 different sanding machines.

[markharro]

Doing 2 bedrooms atm and thats bad enough but yes the idea is to use Fermacell throughout the house. You are right its negative fun and I need to review after we get these two rooms done....I need to get the dust extraction sorted though first!

 

We are following the Fermacell system so after sanding the joint filler compound down the intention is to use their "fine surface treatment".

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, markharro said:

Doing 2 bedrooms atm and thats bad enough but yes the idea is to use Fermacell throughout the house. You are right its negative fun and I need to review after we get these two rooms done....I need to get the dust extraction sorted though first!

 

We are following the Fermacell system so after sanding the joint filler compound down the intention is to use their "fine surface treatment".

Abandon this immediately, is my 2 cents. 
 

Spend the money on a plasterer.

 

Better, faster, neater job, with zero stress and max sanity retention.

 

Seriously, just stop what you’re doing and end your suffering.

[markharro]

I suspect you may be right......the thing is I have got half a dozen bags of jointing mix and the same number of tubs of FST so am going to persevere for a bit longer at least......

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, markharro said:

I suspect you may be right......the thing is I have got half a dozen bags of jointing mix and the same number of tubs of FST so am going to persevere for a bit longer at least......

Gumtree.

[markharro]

You're really trying to spoil my agony .....sorry fun..... aren't you!

[Nick Laslett]

@markharro, use less joint filler. The FST is for finishing and sands very easily. 
 

If you are spending a lot of time sanding the joint filler, you are  putting too much on. Better to go over joints and screw heads twice, with less material. 
 

I bought a 2nd hand Mirka Leros with 1230 dust extractor. This worked brilliantly for finishing all my Fermacell boards. 
 

With a team of 2 we did 280m2 in about 6 days. 
 

You can skim Fermacell boards, but you need to seal the surface first, or the plaster won’t adhere. Talk to the Rep about the best method. 
 

For cutting Fermacell boards, I used the Mirka 1230 dust extractor with my Makita track saw, with a PCD Fibre Cement Cutting Blade. These tools did the whole job, no issues, no failures, we must have cut more than 150 boards. 
 

For sanding the FST The Mirka Leros with the 1230 dust extractor has been great, I was amazed how little dust was created. 

Sanded FST. 

Painted. 

Edited Sunday at 16:15 by Nick Laslett

[markharro]

Thanks @Nick Laslett that sounds encouraging although I have the Deros; the Leros would be great but £££.

 

Yes I think using too much joint filler may be part of the problem. There are joints however where one board is maybe a fraction of a mm proud and I have attempted to feather with the joint filler. I am wondering now whether its better simply to grind the edge that slightly proud down with the sander to match the neighbouring edge?

 

And less I think I will try to passes with the filler. Filling holes I haven't yet found the knack. If you try with one fill and scrape away the excess it tends to leave a slight dimple in the middle which then needs a second fill. However if you fill it copiously you then end up having a lot to sand back.

 

With the FST can I ask which grit of the Abranet you used to sand it? I am using 80 grit to sand the filler but I suspect you need to use something much much finer with the FST or you will basically just take it all off as the FST is very thin isnt it?

 

Your job looks great

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, markharro said:

Yes I think using too much joint filler may be part of the problem. There are joints however where one board is maybe a fraction of a mm proud and I have attempted to feather with the joint filler. I am wondering now whether its better simply to grind the edge that slightly proud down with the sander to match the neighbouring edge?

The elephant in the room is the requisite for meticulous installation work ahead of filling and finishing.

 

Constant reference to how to lightly sand the bits of filler.....but if you haven't installed the boards to adhere to this requisite then you are where you currently are; having to fill and sand an amazing amount of product in a pain-staking, long-winded process which will not yield great results.

 

This isn't me being a dick, this is my direct experience of being on-site and watching someone pour ludicrous amounts of time and money into a failed pursuit.

 

@Nick Laslett demonstrates an instance where understanding of the need for an eye being kept on the prep was there, the resulting install clearly excellent, and the filling and sanding minimal; from his accounts to mine........there is your balance.

 

If your boards weren't installed to the highest standard, then you will be far from that example I fear. If so, abandon ship.

[markharro]

You are quite right @Nickfromwales we do have some non perfect background battening and, despite my efforts at shimming, it has resulted in some irregularities here and there. The background framing was done by the company that built our kit. Its only when months later I out a straight edge to the studs did I realise that a lot of shimming would be needed. Some of the studs are shocking with twists as well. As a punter before its been a steep learning curve not to make too many mistakes and avoid any really bad ones. We have boarded 2 rooms ourselves now and it not perfect, but not a complete disaster. I at least understand the issues now so as we continue boarding I intend to major on the shimming.  

[Nick Laslett]

10 hours ago, markharro said:

Thanks @Nick Laslett that sounds encouraging although I have the Deros; the Leros would be great but £££.

 

Yes I think using too much joint filler may be part of the problem. There are joints however where one board is maybe a fraction of a mm proud and I have attempted to feather with the joint filler. I am wondering now whether its better simply to grind the edge that slightly proud down with the sander to match the neighbouring edge?

 

And less I think I will try to passes with the filler. Filling holes I haven't yet found the knack. If you try with one fill and scrape away the excess it tends to leave a slight dimple in the middle which then needs a second fill. However if you fill it copiously you then end up having a lot to sand back.

 

With the FST can I ask which grit of the Abranet you used to sand it? I am using 80 grit to sand the filler but I suspect you need to use something much much finer with the FST or you will basically just take it all off as the FST is very thin isnt it?

 

Your job looks great

I was lucky to find a 2nd hand Leros and vac on eBay. 
 

I used 180 grit for FST. Even for sanding the actual fermacell boards 80 grit is a bit aggressive. You have to be very careful or you will create tramlines at the board level. 
 

@Nickfromwales, is right that Fermacell is a real bugger to work with. Unlike plasterboard you are trying to fit the actual boards as accurately as possible. Otherwise it is very unforgiving. I picked up the Dewalt Grabo, which makes fitting the boards a lot easier. My substrate was either ICF wall or metal framing. For the stud walls, I used two layers of fermacell, with staples for 2nd layers, this greatly helps with getting a good fit with the glue. So the boards are already pretty flat.
 

 

The trick is to use many thin layers of joint filler. Then FST to finish. Mix small batches of joint filler because it goes off very quickly. Impossible not to have some joints with 1mm difference in the boards. But you should be able to use the joint filler to build up the difference. 
 

We have boxing all around the ceiling for MVHR ducting. We used a lot of aluminium corner beads. In this picture you can see the massive amount of joint filler we used, but the sanding was minimal. 

 

 

Here is a YouTube playlist of three videos. The first one is from a French couple. Lots of good techniques shown across the clip. They have other videos. 
 

 

 

Edited yesterday at 07:36 by Nick Laslett

[markharro]

Thanks @Nick Laslett I had seen the last 2 of those videos but not the first one so that was helpful. One question with the FST.....I think you apply it over the whole surface of the boards dont you and not just the areas you have applied the joint filler?

 

And any tips for sanding it....I am trying to visualise how you avoid sanding right through to the board below!?

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, markharro said:

You are quite right @Nickfromwales we do have some non perfect background battening and, despite my efforts at shimming, it has resulted in some irregularities here and there. The background framing was done by the company that built our kit. Its only when months later I out a straight edge to the studs did I realise that a lot of shimming would be needed. Some of the studs are shocking with twists as well. As a punter before its been a steep learning curve not to make too many mistakes and avoid any really bad ones. We have boarded 2 rooms ourselves now and it not perfect, but not a complete disaster. I at least understand the issues now so as we continue boarding I intend to major on the shimming.  

Plastering will alleviate all this time / effort / prep / shimming / filling / sanding etc.

 

If the walls not great and the boards are going on less than ‘well’, then why continue to suffer?

 

I’ll shut up now 🙃

[JohnMo]

Dust collection just use a Henry vacuum. Use a HEPA filter version, and get plenty of bags as they clog before they fill.

 

The guy that did our jointing for the dry lining used a cheap hepa vacuum from Screwfix, he binned them every couple of years, but way cheaper overall than some of the stupid priced ones.

 

A tip I found many years ago, when joint filling is allow filler/joint compound to dry. Use a good decoration sponge or a cloth, wet in lightly wring out and use as a sander lightly. It will take all the lumps and bumped off between coats, with zero mess or dust.