Misaligned rad

[Dee]

Hi

Finally got plumber in to 2nd fix bathroom, had to dash to work and leave him to it .

When I checked his work the tall column rad was not centered on the wall....looks dreadful. Can't pull up floor to correct it so is there a workaround?

[MrPotts]

Was it installed off centre to allow the shower door to open?

[joe90]

Just a case of telling subs EXACTLY what you want, no assumptions. ( I think it’s to avoid the shower door by the look of it. )

[Dee]

Nope, there is plenty of clearance with the door.

I figured out I can actually move it myself. I will pull the flooring back, cut away the ply. Remove the rad, shift the pipes ect....

[joe90]

8 minutes ago, Dee said:

Nope, there is plenty of clearance with the door.

Ok, but it’s still a case of telling subs exactly what you want. 

[Russell griffiths]

Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. 

[Dee]

21 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. 

No, pipework wasn't there and I had to get to work so I stupidly made an assumption that he would center it. I know better now to spell out my expectations!

Anyway I've changed it after much careful jiggery poker.

[Dee]

21 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. 

No, pipework wasn't there and I had to get to work so I stupidly made an assumption that he would center it. I know better now to spell out my expectations!

Anyway I've changed it after much careful jiggery poker.

[Super_Paulie]

could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow.

When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes.

[Dee]

2 hours ago, Super_Paulie said:

could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow.

When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes.

I did wonder about that flow reg thing but I honestly can't remember....is there away of checking?

What do you mean by 'cap?

Edited April 11, 2024 by Dee

[Super_Paulie]

1 hour ago, Dee said:

I did wonder about that flow reg thing but I honestly can't remember....is there away of checking?

What do you mean by 'cap?

just to hide the holes in the floor, if you cant remove that bit of flooring then i guess your options are limited.

I dont think there is a way to check where the flow diverter is without a drain down. I wouldnt worry if the rad is heating up to your liking.

[Dee]

1 hour ago, Super_Paulie said:

just to hide the holes in the floor, if you cant remove that bit of flooring then i guess your options are limited.

I dont think there is a way to check where the flow diverter is without a drain down. I wouldnt worry if the rad is heating up to your liking.

I know, it does look like a bodge job! I just rather have the rad centered than worry about hol.es in the flooring.

I'll patch them somehow and get caps for the pipes. Thanks for your input, much appreciated...Dee

[Dee]

I now have to adjust the exposed shower valve as I can see daylight through the hot and cold pipe inlets! 

Plumber didn't put isolation valves so how do I turn off water as I have a megaflo tank?

Tank is immediately below new shower. I know where the stop cock is but will that isolate the hot too?

[markc]

1 hour ago, Dee said:

I now have to adjust the exposed shower valve as I can see daylight through the hot and cold pipe inlets! 

Plumber didn't put isolation valves so how do I turn off water as I have a megaflo tank?

Tank is immediately below new shower. I know where the stop cock is but will that isolate the hot too?

If the shower is above the tank then closing the cold stop cock will stop water leaving the tank on the hot side, if you have a shower pump, turn the power off to that. Before cutting any pipes, turn the shower on to dump any pipe pressure.

[Dee]

Thanks markc....there's no pump. Should I also turn the basin taps on aswell as the shower, to dump the water?

I was thinking about fitting isolation valves while I'm at it but never tried this befor and the plumber used plastic pipping, any tips on this??

[markc]

Hi Dee, no need to turn basin taps on, but it is a good way to lower the water level in the pipework to shower. Fitting isolator valves is easy with plastic because it’s all just cut and push fit.

[joe90]

if you do fit isolation valves make sure they are “full flow” ones (some restrict flow).

[Dee]

Hi, I've just turned the cookshop off, turned on the basin taps that are right nect to the shower in question and the flow stopped nothing seconds! I was expecting it to be awhile fir thr pipes to empty throughout the (large) house...no?

Photos of job....wont slot of wster escspe thats left in the pipes?

[Dee]

I'm not confident cutting the pipes for IVs so I just loosen the nuts and straighten the valve!

[ProDave]

25 minutes ago, Dee said:

Hi, I've just turned the cookshop off, turned on the basin taps that are right nect to the shower in question and the flow stopped nothing seconds! I was expecting it to be awhile fir thr pipes to empty throughout the (large) house...no?

I would expect with an UVC the hot at least would flow for a good few seconds while it emptied the pressure from the expansion vessel.  If the hot stopped immediately on shutting the cold inlet to the UVC, I would be checking the expansion vessel.

[Dee]

Shower valve fixed and it doesn't leak either!! Plumber had put it on upside down.....

Thankyou everyone for talking me through everything. I've gained alot of confidence in the process and a teeny tiny  nugget of knowledge.

Much appreciated