Dee Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Hi Finally got plumber in to 2nd fix bathroom, had to dash to work and leave him to it . When I checked his work the tall column rad was not centered on the wall....looks dreadful. Can't pull up floor to correct it so is there a workaround? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPotts Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Was it installed off centre to allow the shower door to open? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Just a case of telling subs EXACTLY what you want, no assumptions. ( I think it’s to avoid the shower door by the look of it. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Nope, there is plenty of clearance with the door. I figured out I can actually move it myself. I will pull the flooring back, cut away the ply. Remove the rad, shift the pipes ect.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 8 minutes ago, Dee said: Nope, there is plenty of clearance with the door. Ok, but it’s still a case of telling subs exactly what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 21 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. No, pipework wasn't there and I had to get to work so I stupidly made an assumption that he would center it. I know better now to spell out my expectations! Anyway I've changed it after much careful jiggery poker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 21 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Wasn’t it obvious with the pipe position before the rad was fitted. No, pipework wasn't there and I had to get to work so I stupidly made an assumption that he would center it. I know better now to spell out my expectations! Anyway I've changed it after much careful jiggery poker. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Paulie Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow. When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 (edited) 2 hours ago, Super_Paulie said: could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow. When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes. I did wonder about that flow reg thing but I honestly can't remember....is there away of checking? What do you mean by 'cap? Edited April 11 by Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Paulie Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 1 hour ago, Dee said: I did wonder about that flow reg thing but I honestly can't remember....is there away of checking? What do you mean by 'cap? just to hide the holes in the floor, if you cant remove that bit of flooring then i guess your options are limited. I dont think there is a way to check where the flow diverter is without a drain down. I wouldnt worry if the rad is heating up to your liking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 1 hour ago, Super_Paulie said: just to hide the holes in the floor, if you cant remove that bit of flooring then i guess your options are limited. I dont think there is a way to check where the flow diverter is without a drain down. I wouldnt worry if the rad is heating up to your liking. I know, it does look like a bodge job! I just rather have the rad centered than worry about hol.es in the flooring. I'll patch them somehow and get caps for the pipes. Thanks for your input, much appreciated...Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 I now have to adjust the exposed shower valve as I can see daylight through the hot and cold pipe inlets! Plumber didn't put isolation valves so how do I turn off water as I have a megaflo tank? Tank is immediately below new shower. I know where the stop cock is but will that isolate the hot too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 1 hour ago, Dee said: I now have to adjust the exposed shower valve as I can see daylight through the hot and cold pipe inlets! Plumber didn't put isolation valves so how do I turn off water as I have a megaflo tank? Tank is immediately below new shower. I know where the stop cock is but will that isolate the hot too? If the shower is above the tank then closing the cold stop cock will stop water leaving the tank on the hot side, if you have a shower pump, turn the power off to that. Before cutting any pipes, turn the shower on to dump any pipe pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Thanks markc....there's no pump. Should I also turn the basin taps on aswell as the shower, to dump the water? I was thinking about fitting isolation valves while I'm at it but never tried this befor and the plumber used plastic pipping, any tips on this?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Hi Dee, no need to turn basin taps on, but it is a good way to lower the water level in the pipework to shower. Fitting isolator valves is easy with plastic because it’s all just cut and push fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 if you do fit isolation valves make sure they are “full flow” ones (some restrict flow). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 Hi, I've just turned the cookshop off, turned on the basin taps that are right nect to the shower in question and the flow stopped nothing seconds! I was expecting it to be awhile fir thr pipes to empty throughout the (large) house...no? Photos of job....wont slot of wster escspe thats left in the pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 13 Author Share Posted April 13 I'm not confident cutting the pipes for IVs so I just loosen the nuts and straighten the valve! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 25 minutes ago, Dee said: Hi, I've just turned the cookshop off, turned on the basin taps that are right nect to the shower in question and the flow stopped nothing seconds! I was expecting it to be awhile fir thr pipes to empty throughout the (large) house...no? I would expect with an UVC the hot at least would flow for a good few seconds while it emptied the pressure from the expansion vessel. If the hot stopped immediately on shutting the cold inlet to the UVC, I would be checking the expansion vessel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 Shower valve fixed and it doesn't leak either!! Plumber had put it on upside down..... Thankyou everyone for talking me through everything. I've gained alot of confidence in the process and a teeny tiny nugget of knowledge. Much appreciated 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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