Wall hung toilet in a stud wall

[SB2023]

Hi all

Hoping for some guidance or moral support here.

We have a void behind one of our bathrooms as in the picture, mainly due to the height of the roof. According to architect plans, I have built a stud wall as designed.

My problem, if I have one(?) is that the wall hung toilet frame is so far from the rear wall (600mm) I can't attach it to it.

However the very poor instructions that come with this villory and boch frame seem to be saying I can screw through the studs and into the frame to support it. But they don't supply those screws. And I think it might be referring to metal framing.

 

 

My questions

1. Does it sound like I have understood the instructions correctly?

2. Am I missing an obvious way to support the frame?

3. Any suggestions to solve my problem!?

 

Thanks!

[jayc89]

I used something like these to screw through the frame into the stud work - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-hex-bolt-self-tapping-coach-screws-10mm-x-70mm-10-pack/9147T

 

I also added a couple of noggins, top and bottom, behind the frame and screwed into that for additional support. 

 

Then CT1 the face of the frame before boarding. 

[SB2023]

Thanks @jayc89 this will solve it.

And it all feels pretty solid I assume?

[jayc89]

32 minutes ago, SB2023 said:

Thanks @jayc89 this will solve it.

And it all feels pretty solid I assume?

 

It's been in around 6 months now and hasn't budged, so far so good!

[MikeSharp01]

Those double timbers make for very stiff uprights and the frame itself + screws from @jayc89will mean you have a very firm seat! If you look at the turning moments around the screws that attach the WC and the long reach up to what looks like solid fixings at the top of those double studs you shouldn't need additional support unless its a disabled WC in which case other things need to be taken into account, such as the support rails and if any users might have bariatric issues.

 

 

[SB2023]

Excellent thanks @MikeSharp01. 

This adds more confidence.

The studs are reasonably short at about 2m and connected to the top plate that connects to the rafters. It all feels pretty solid as a wall...

[Nickfromwales]

If you're really after belt & braces, fix some vertical sections of 4x2 to the masonry wall, and strap between the stud wall and those with 2 x 4x2's. Locate them height-wise at the top of the frame to remove any 'wiggle', but tbh you're setup is similar to how I install for clients (and nobody has 'bottomed out' yet lol).

 

12 hours ago, jayc89 said:

I used something like these to screw through the frame into the stud work - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-hex-bolt-self-tapping-coach-screws-10mm-x-70mm-10-pack/9147T

 

I also added a couple of noggins, top and bottom, behind the frame and screwed into that for additional support. 

 

Then CT1 the face of the frame before boarding. 

Exactly what I do.

[Kelvin]

Ours (Geberit) came with adjustable top brackets that secured the top of the frame to the back of the wall. I added extra bracing and strapped that to the wall half way down the frame then some CT1 for the face of the plasterboard. I don’t think there’s any danger of these frames not being secure my concern is more about the tiniest movement popping the tiles off. 

[SB2023]

Thank you @Nickfromwales and @Kelvin.

All makes sense. 

Will get the bolts in and see how it is. But more confident now.

[Kelvin]

This is the upstairs one so yet to bulkhead around it. Even just as it is like this it’s not going anywhere. You can also use self-tapping screws through the plasterboard and into the metal frame. Check your instructions as it might already suggest that. 
 

Edited April 8 by Kelvin

[Temp]

My builder made long bolts from M10 or M12 (?) threaded rod and nuts. He fixed timber to the wall with several wall anchors and the long bolts pointing out through the timber towards the WC frame. 

 

Nuts were added both sides of the WC frame to stop it moving in either direction. 

 

Needed a dry run to cut the "bolts" to the right length.

 

And he fixed it to the stud work.

Edited April 8 by Temp

[saveasteading]

The only issue I had was the pan to gantry fixing where it involves  flimsy looking plastic inserts for big bolts. They came loose, but I think it was my fault for being scared to tighten it to the limit, being plastic and porcelain. It's been fine since it was redone.