Thin bed mortar

[mjc55]

I have had a search on here but there doesn't seem much on the topic!

 

I have been thinking about thin bed mortar option on our project.  On the face of it this seems to be a relatively good idea.  We want to use block on both leaves, with front and sides to be timber clad and rear to be a lot of glazing with render to the rest.

 

I am thinking of doing the blockwork myself, I have laid bricks before and given that timescales are not at the top of the priority list, any speed issues are probably outweighed by reduction on cost due to self-build.

 

Any thoughts on the subject welcome, especially if this is something that you have done similar on your project, thin-bed not particularly self laid.

 

Thanks

[Russell griffiths]

Isn’t it only suitable for a certain type of block ??
 

if you want to be so hands on I would either go icf, or timberframe with a block outer skin. 
 

I didn’t use block n block for my own house, and I’m an ex bricky. 
it just looked far to hard on my own. 

[nod]

I was chatting to a Polish bricklayer 

There a bit like rocking horse poo now that there wages have caught  up 

He reckons that it’s virtually all thin bed over there 

[mjc55]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

Isn’t it only suitable for a certain type of block ??
 

if you want to be so hands on I would either go icf, or timberframe with a block outer skin. 
 

I didn’t use block n block for my own house, and I’m an ex bricky. 
it just looked far to hard on my own. 

I'm probably a bit old-fashioned tbh, but I guess that one of the advantages of self-build is that you can be idiosyncratic about how you build.  I am interested that you say that it looks to hard on your own, is that from a physical perspective, because with lightweight block my perception was that it decreases the physical effort required!

[Russell griffiths]

2 hours ago, mjc55 said:

I'm probably a bit old-fashioned tbh, but I guess that one of the advantages of self-build is that you can be idiosyncratic about how you build.  I am interested that you say that it looks to hard on your own, is that from a physical perspective, because with lightweight block my perception was that it decreases the physical effort required!

If your thinking of using thermalite blocks, for both inner and outer you need to have a serious re think. 
 

or are you thinking of the single block that does solid wall construction 

 

did this in the 90’s 

lots of problems with the blocks crumbling. 
 

not for me. 
 

Edited March 20 by Russell griffiths

[Mike]

7 hours ago, mjc55 said:

I have been thinking about thin bed mortar option on our project.

As per @Russell griffiths, if you're thinking of using aerated concrete blocks, they're better avoided. They are are notorious for cracking even when, in my experience, correctly using the recommended movement joints and bed reinforcement. Better to choose a medium density block instead.

 

The only other block I know of that can take thin joint are Porotherm, but they have a different set of issues.

 

 

[mjc55]

4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

If your thinking of using thermalite blocks, for both inner and outer you need to have a serious re think. 
 

or are you thinking of the single block that does solid wall construction 

 

did this in the 90’s 

lots of problems with the blocks crumbling. 
 

not for me. 
 

Tell me more?  Aren't the specs for for thermalite better than they were back then?

[Russell griffiths]

7 hours ago, mjc55 said:

Tell me more?  Aren't the specs for for thermalite better than they were back then?

No idea, I wouldn’t use them if they were free. 

[joe90]

39 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

No idea, I wouldn’t use them if they were free. 

 +1, I am currently working on my sons house and trying to get decent fixings in thermalite  blocks is pathetic. 

[JohnMo]

6 minutes ago, joe90 said:

trying to get decent fixings in thermalite  blocks is pathetic. 

 

These work great, designed for the job. When you install, one turn in, half back, a further turn in etc. until fully screwed in.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-aerated-concrete-anchor-nylon-60mm-50-pack/454HT?kpid=454HT&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Screws%2C Nails and Fixings?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwte-vBhBFEiwAQSv_xSPJizrRNcYEjQuP7ZUJI4VyVx8cKj8RcKlyx5vZJCAQXNT_FOFBqRoC80MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[joe90]

Every day is a school day (even at my age 🤣)

[markocosic]

17 hours ago, nod said:

I was chatting to a Polish bricklayer 

There a bit like rocking horse poo now that there wages have caught  up 

He reckons that it’s virtually all thin bed over there 

 

Sweden does panel builds indoors. Eastern Europe does thin bed mortar. Why? Seasons.

 

Winter is cold.

 

This is good. You can drive over the building site without sinking. There are no mosquitos trying to eat you.

 

This is bad. You can't use thick bed mortar.

 

Thin bed mortar (actual mortar) can work down to 2C and doesn't take a lifetime to cure.

 

Thin bed mortar (PU foam) can build in down to -5C.

 

They're not fussed on houses having decorative brick rainscreens. Render or cladding over "structural" (rough) brickwork is the norm.

 

Or with wooden panel construction you can drive the flatbed with palfinger over the site where you laid foundations in autumn, throw up the panels whilst it is snowing rather than raining so everything stays nice and dry, and get weather tight before spring comes and the snowmelt turns the whole site into a bog.

 

Looks easy enough if your founds are level. No cavity wall ties (all additional insulation is external after the fact) and the PU foams will likely be stickier in tension than mortar.