BrackensBuild Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 We’re building with SIPs and will have 100mm EWI on the walls and 80mm insulation on the inside of the roof. For the walls, we will use Glidevale Thermo Extreme breather membrane outside, then Glidevale Protect BarrAir membrane on the inside. Currently trying to work out if we use the same membranes for the pitched roof and would welcome any thoughts or suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I’m baffled as to why you are building with sips and then having to add extra insulation. either get a better sips product or find a different method of building happy to be educated as to the reason. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 46 minutes ago, BrackensBuild said: welcome any thoughts or suggestions. Also puzzled. Don't you have a formal design in place? Why wouldn't you want the the same membrane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Can you not just tape the sips to each other internally for airtighess? What are you planning for your final rain screen? A block external leaf or cladding hung from the SIPs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Square Feet Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 On 18/03/2024 at 08:12, Russell griffiths said: I’m baffled as to why you are building with sips and then having to add extra insulation. either get a better sips product or find a different method of building happy to be educated as to the reason. External insulation on top of SIPS is the standard I have found when reading up on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Post and beam Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 1 hour ago, Square Feet said: External insulation on top of SIPS is the standard I have found when reading up on this. Really. We are hoping to start our Potton home soon and that is SIP's with a brick skin ground floor and Cedral cladding on the upper. No other insulation anticipated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 On 18/03/2024 at 12:26, Iceverge said: Can you not just tape the sips to each other internally for airtighess? Having tried taped OSB myself I would say no. It's too rough and ready to take tape nicely and with a sip if you get any movement (usually at ridge beam) it turns into soggy Weetabix. Better to go belt and braces with membrane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 On 19/03/2024 at 14:11, Post and beam said: Really. We are hoping to start our Potton home soon and that is SIP's with a brick skin ground floor and Cedral cladding on the upper. No other insulation anticipated. In countries that have winters you won't get a sup thick enough to meet building regulations. 400 mm walls and 600 mm roofs not practical. Build with smaller panels then add insulation externally to also keep the outer OSB layer toasty warm and dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Square Feet Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 On 19/03/2024 at 12:11, Post and beam said: Really. We are hoping to start our Potton home soon and that is SIP's with a brick skin ground floor and Cedral cladding on the upper. No other insulation anticipated. According to this, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrackensBuild Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 On 18/03/2024 at 08:12, Russell griffiths said: I’m baffled as to why you are building with sips and then having to add extra insulation. either get a better sips product or find a different method of building happy to be educated as to the reason. 142mm SIPs + 100mm EWI = better u-value for the same wall depth versus just a 250mm SIP. In addition, we can reduce cold bridging where we have timber posts within the SIPs instead of the splines (where structurally required). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Air barrier - stops bulk movement of air through a structure (important) Vapour retarder/barrier - slows/stops movement of moisture through a structure (less important) Science: https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers SIPs on their own are problematic because: - You have a symmetrical wall/roof (vapour retarders in the form of OSB on BOTH sides) - That vapour retarder is made of weetabix (can't do moisture) - You have leaks in the wall/roof (making joints airtight is difficult/impossible) They don't fail so much at ground level (where cold air is sucked through the wall, heated as it goes through the insulation layer, and dries out in the process) They do fail at the ridgeline (where warm moist air exits and dumps the excess moisture into the SIP assembly) They really fail if the cladding/roof covering isn't well ventilated (and that excess moisture stays in the outer layer of weetabix) I would suggest this variation: stick an airtight vapour barrier (can be polythene) on the OUTSIDE of a skinny SIP then go over the top of that with insulation. The air/vapour barrier on the OUTSIDE is easier to apply well (less likely to be compromise than one inside the house with service penetrations etc) and keeps the SIP dry until it's insulated, roofed, and cladded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now