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Joist very close to wall, pipe entry?


Super_Paulie

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mornin.
Pretty easy one for the guys this morning. Ive got a situation where i need to bring up my cold feed for the washing machine and the wall is very close to the joist. There will be units over the pipe work.

The wall is back to bare brick so it will need boarding which makes it even more tricky as it will project at least 20mm further. Do i:

A) bring up between the brick and joist, manipulate the pipe to bring it past the board and then clip. Means the board wont be able to go as low as i would ideally like, or i could cut a channel from it

B) go the other side of the joist and manipulate it back over. Means i can board lower but the pipe will be exiting the floor quite far out is possibly further out than the service void of the units

C) chamfer the joist. Probably no good as its taking too much structure away but i threw in the picture for reference

 

D), convert plastic to copper under the floor and then bring copper up with a few 45 bends. Means a joint under the floor which i was trying to avoid.

 

Any opinions on best practice?

washerFeed.jpg

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3 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

what size pipework?  10 or 15mm, chase the wall slightly above the joist and/or just hide the pipe in the dot and dab if plasterboard

pipe is 15mm.

If i chase the wall then it seemingly would be difficult to get that to come out at 90degrees unless i convert to copper below floor level, the bend radius isnt great on the layflat in comparison to a copper 90. Not a bad shout though.

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Your pipe feed for the washing machine should come up in the cupboard next to the washer the same as the drain. 
 

DO NOT bring the pipes up behind the washer. 
 

I used to bring washer feed up the wall, but now bring them vertical up through the bottom the cupboard clipped to the back or side of cupboard next to the waste. 
pro’s   Easy to work on. 
 

con’s you can see the pipe in the cupboard. 

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yeah this is coming up to the rear of a 300mm unit to the side of the washer.

I could bring it up into the cupboard from the bottom like you say, i usually bring them up in the service void and then have a false back to conceal the workings so the cupboard is still free to use, and if i have major issues i can remove the cupboard and all the plumbing is still in-situ. However thinking about it i can see the advantages of having easier access to the valve the way you describe.

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4 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

pro’s   Easy to work on

The machine doesn't hit the pipe

You can see that the joints are sound.

Machine doesn't twist the connection hose.

It's even more important long term....I had a machine that went in with mm spare on the sides, but the gap closed over time. It wouldn't come out again for scrapping.

I know, most of that is covered by ' easy to work on'.

 

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sounds like a winner. So something like this, coming out on the room side of the joist and straight up into the unit. Could easily cut the unit out so the unit can be slid out if ever necessary and a false back on magnets or whatever to conceal it all. (waste not shown in image, obvs)

image.png

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Kitchen cupboards usually have false backs, when I fitted kitchens I drilled a hole in the floor next to the back panel, cut the pipe to be just over (50mm) the floor height, drop the cupboard unit down over the pipe, extend the pipe with copper to its tap/connector. (Hint, the back panels are flimsy so glue a piece of ply where the pipe clips are to screw too 👍)

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Cheers guys. I've done what the majority have suggested above. The pipe leaves the floor around 100mm from the wall and is capped ready to extend into the cabinet when the time comes.

 

Appreciate your input as always you lot 👍

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