JohnBishop Posted October 14 Author Share Posted October 14 3 minutes ago, markc said: Pulling a post into square before fixings will help it to stay put, but without bracing a “table” structure will sway and pulling one leg into plumb generally results is it pulling another leg half way so the stresses balance. how is this bracing achieved in such circumstances? I reckon I need an anchor of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted October 14 Share Posted October 14 5 hours ago, JohnBishop said: how is this bracing achieved in such circumstances? I reckon I need an anchor of some sort. Hi, do you have any pics of the structure, loads of ways of adding bracing to prevent racking of a table. If one edge of the roof is fixed to a wall you can add diagonal braces in the roof - timber, metal or tensioned wires to hold the other edge rigid at the top. Side braces or if you are wanting to keep the structure clutter free then you are looking at holding it be the joints between posts and top members. Loads of options and no real right or wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 On 14/10/2024 at 15:42, markc said: Hi, do you have any pics of the structure, loads of ways of adding bracing to prevent racking of a table. If one edge of the roof is fixed to a wall you can add diagonal braces in the roof - timber, metal or tensioned wires to hold the other edge rigid at the top. Side braces or if you are wanting to keep the structure clutter free then you are looking at holding it be the joints between posts and top members. Loads of options and no real right or wrong. I already screwed everything together. I could not wait before the beautiful weather today I send some pictures later today. On the bases I used M10 everywhere else M12 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 16 Share Posted October 16 Look at the photos throughout this thread. "Bracing" is generally achieved by the little diagonals at the top. Either let in to the horizontal / vertical members with a joint detail (mortice & tenon, through housing etc) and / or screwed / bolted through. I'd use dog tooth washers btw if "clamping" braces on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 Please have a look. This is what I built so far. This is very strong. I mean I could put up a roof and then think about bracing as this is quite strong. I don't put tiles but polycarbonate sheets. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 I think the only problem I can see so far is those wires going exactly where the rafters will end. I think I have to move them or something or carve out the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted October 16 Share Posted October 16 On 29/12/2023 at 18:43, gaz_moose said: twinwall polycarbonate sheeting. but i think its just going to be a massive sail. make sure you screw the roof down solid. I do not like twin wall as all those little holes that run top to bottom get mould growing in them abd is impossible to clean out plus you have the perfext bug holes to nest in they say to use special tape around the edges but it still does not stop it growing mould inside the box sections and can lead to condesnation in the panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 18 Author Share Posted October 18 On 16/10/2024 at 21:01, scottishjohn said: I do not like twin wall as all those little holes that run top to bottom get mould growing in them abd is impossible to clean out plus you have the perfext bug holes to nest in they say to use special tape around the edges but it still does not stop it growing mould inside the box sections and can lead to condesnation in the panels I have heard about that. What else transparent would you recommend then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted October 18 Share Posted October 18 1 hour ago, JohnBishop said: I have heard about that. What else transparent would you recommend then? corrugated 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 On 18/10/2024 at 16:06, scottishjohn said: corrugated what do you think about stuff like EZ Glaze? https://corrugatedplasticroofing.co.uk/collections/ez-glaze-glass-like-polycarbonate-roof-panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 I used that type of pproducr for windows in a summer gouse but never for a roof might be too flexible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 2 hours ago, scottishjohn said: I used that type of pproducr for windows in a summer gouse but never for a roof might be too flexible from the description these are 3mm thick comparing to corrugated that is 1-1.3mm of thickness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 (edited) I,m quite it would be ok with a suitable frame work to give support but if your thought is to have 1m wide panes and the length of the patio cover with noo intermeadite supports i would say that is too much and would flap when windy ask the maker Edited October 22 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 correction idid not look closely at what you were proposing i used flat sheet for widows --just like glass the product you are suggesting is corrugated and has lots of support so will be fine i think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 22 Author Share Posted October 22 I think the spacing between rafters will be 60cm. This EZ Glaze looks cool but it's quite expensive unless I can find something similar but cheaper. How far should the overhang reach do you think? Half-way? Of course on the right side I want to cut it parallel to the wall. Do you think on the left side should I cut it square? I think on both ends I should incise these weeping groves right so the timer lasts longer, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 I wanted the timber to rest on the 2nd one but it looks like the cut is going to be too deep, isn't it? What would you recommend doing? Should I introduce a wedge to bridge the gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted November 1 Author Share Posted November 1 (edited) I have cut the timber and I am in the process of staining it but it takes awful amount of time to dry. Do you think I should leave a gap between the insulated wall I mean that brittle plaster and the timber? The structure is pretty strong but I wonder in strong winds is it going to start slamming the wall. On top of that do you know if I can get something like this corrugation support these guys in Arizona talk about? I think in UK this is called eaves filler made of foam? I found some at Onduline website https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Eaves-Fillers-for-Corrugated-Sheets-Pack-6/p/240165 I don't think this makes sense in my case because I attach it to rafters that go parallel with the sheets but it would be good to support it on something in place where I screw it in. Edited November 1 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted November 19 Author Share Posted November 19 what screws do you think I should use to attach these plastic flashings to the insulated wall? https://www.plasticbuildingsupplies.com/polycarbonate-roofing-sheet/ez-glaze-accessories-ez-glaze-wall-connector-2m-ezglazew-conn2m Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted November 28 Author Share Posted November 28 (edited) How long screws should I use to attach the rafters? The rafter (birds mouth bit) is about 8.5cm thick. The timber is about 4.7cm wide. Should I use 18cm long screws that are 6mm of diameter? What drill size should I use for pre-drilling 5mm? Edited November 28 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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