43 minutes ago, JohnBishop said:

I use both, the stainless steel will go central over the expansion gap, the other one will go to the other side. The remaining 2 will be the ones that submerge to the concrete.

 

So you got two of each?

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

So you got two of each?

Have a look. I also made the crossbeams horizontal. It just does not make sense to make it at an angle, difficult to do and impractical.

 

 

Cut through housings in your roof joists at the appropriate angle to fit over the front and rear goalposts. Just Google "pergola designs" and then Images for ideas.

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

Cut through housings in your roof joists at the appropriate angle to fit over the front and rear goalposts. Just Google "pergola designs" and then Images for ideas.

Do you mean not to bother with mortis and tendon just use 2x12 for girders and 2x10 for rafters? This would actually level everything.

 

Edited May 11, 20242 yr by JohnBishop

I can see in most cases they use girders even on both sides but it looks ugly if you ask me.

 

In one case I can see the girder is inside posts with a sufficient cut I reckon to conceal it

 

In this case the crossbeams go on top of the posts so I reckon this is still mortis and tendom but inserted from the top not from the side what makes more sense.

 

It looks like I have over-engineered mine. I have to decide if I want to go the crossbeam on top or girders way. The girders way seems the simplest.

Edited May 11, 20242 yr by JohnBishop

Found at random:

 

https://www.idealhome.co.uk/diy/building-a-pergola-things-to-consider

I have updated my design. I just wonder if these 2x12 girders and 2x10 rafters are not an overkill....

 

 

for anchors how do you think which resin is better Vinylester (Fisher) or Styrene-free Polyester (Rawplug, Dewalt) or does not matter much?

I like the traditional, smelly one that gives you a headache in confined spaces.

I have drilled some holes and it looks like the concrete is only 4 inches = 10cm deep and from PDFs you attached (thank you) the anchor length is 13cm minimum for M10

M10 studs 130/170/190mm
M12 studs 160/190/220/260mm

I think in this case I have to cut the concrete out and see if I can make twice as deep footings like 40cm deep or something.

Ok, a small update. I got 4 of these new bases. Since I will have to remove the existing concrete and pouring new concrete bases I am going to do all 4 of the in the same way.
 

What do think about these?
These are 5mm galvanised on the big piece however the 40x40mm foot it looks like is only 3mm thick steel. Is this enough?

 

The old ones after good few weeks exposure to elements. It looks like the most expensive, stainless steel one developed some rust!
 

Now in terms of concrete bases themselves. How wide and deep these concrete bases should be? 30x30cm and 1.5 feet deep?
They will go 24cm away from the wall. Unfortunately it looks like they all end up on the existing expansion gaps.

 

 

Please advise

Please can someone advise re bolts for this base?

I have a drill block to drill holes in straight line but do you think I will be able to arrive at the right spot on the other end? Or should I just not to bother and use shorter screws?

 

 

Thanks

I would use 50mm galvanised coach screws with a galv washer.

13 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I would use 50mm galvanised coach screws with a galv washer.

so your saying no to bother with long ones that go across the timber.
I go for the thickest M? that can fit into that hole.

For the girders that are 7x2 and 6x6 posts I will use carriage bolts I reckon M12 220mm+ long.

 

 

37 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I would use 50mm galvanised coach screws with a galv washer.

for coach screws do I use the same drill bit size or smaller?

Drill in from each side. As long as you're near enough the second hole will pick up on the first. 

 

Stick a little bubble level atop your drill if you're that worried & line the drill up left to right with a square on the floor or similar. 

 

Put studding through. Affix with a flat round washer, then spring washer then full nut. Ideally stainless. Leave/cut the studs so 3 threads projecting beyond the nut. M12 is 1.75mm pitch so 5mm is fine.

 

Cap with a plastic nut cover.

8 minutes ago, JohnBishop said:

for coach screws do I use the same drill bit size or smaller?

 

Half the diameter.

Plastic nut caps. We just print them as we need them now:

 

 

 

 

 

Ready made caps:

 

 

 

I checked and the holes in those bases are M10 so I go for M10 stainless steel rods and M10 nuts and washers.
How about the support for the 7x2 girders. Do you think M12 is enough or should I go for M14?
I want two threaded rods to support each girder at every point of contact which makes it 2 girders on each side of the post, 4 rods, 8 nuts in total.

There won't be much weight on the roof itself just polycarbonate sheets on top of 8x 5x2

however I do fantasise about a one man/2 people swing.

Do you sell these plastic caps? Can I order some from you?

Actually I don't see M14, Direct Channel only sells M10,12,16,20...

Edited July 23, 20242 yr by JohnBishop

M14 is like a non standard standard generally and a pita tba. Stay with M12. 

 

How many caps do you need & what colour?

 

Edit: 8 is it? 

Edited July 23, 20242 yr by Onoff

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

M14 is like a non standard standard generally and a pita tba. Stay with M12. 

 

How many caps do you need & what colour?

Sounds good.
For this project at least:
24x M10 caps
16x M12 caps
For the following project I will use the same configuration.

On 23/07/2024 at 16:27, JohnBishop said:

Sounds good.
For this project at least:
24x M10 caps
16x M12 caps
For the following project I will use the same configuration.

 

Go on Amazon and buy the caps at those quantities 

Hi,

Does it make sense to paint a water repellent over the mahogany stained posts?
If so should I sand the stain lightly before application?

 

It is so slow process. It takes almost 24 hours for the stain to dry. The hot weather prevented me from making any process.

Edited August 4, 20242 yr by JohnBishop

I am putting up my patio and I found two of the 6x6 posts not entirely level when I check with my 1m long level.
The reason I am asking is because I am about to connect these posts with the other side to make it a solid square.
At the moment it can sway side to side.
My question is: should I pull the post in the desired direction to level it then clamp it before drilling holes or just leave it as is without causing the tension?
I mean the wood is not 100% straight.

Pulling a post into square before fixings will help it to stay put, but without bracing a “table” structure will sway and pulling one leg into plumb generally results is it pulling another leg half way so the stresses balance.