Knauf Performance Plus Screws

[Barnboy]

Has anybody used the performance plus screws ? 

I'm boarding with Soundshield board, the spec sheet says to use performance plus screws which I've purchased for the job.

They seem an absolute nightmare to get in.

I've got a milwaukee collated screw gun but you've got to be perfectly square and have most of your body weight behind the gun to stop the bit spinning out of the screw head.

I've taken some screws out of the plastic strip and put them in with my impact driver but as soon as the reverse thread below the screw head hits the board they go tight and require backing in and out a couple of times.

I've put a few std plasterboard screws in and they're fine, it's just these specified screws with the reverse thread.

Should I just give up and swap to standard screws, what's the purpose of the reverse thread ? , to force any board that the screw has pushed out the back, back into the board ?

Thanks 

[jack]

Not sure if you've considered it already, but what bit are they designed for? Could be an issue if they're a pozi bit and you're using Philips (or vice versa).

[Barnboy]

I'm using a PR2 bit that came witht the standard screws. 

Admittedly it's not as snug as in the standard screws but it's the best fitting bit that I can find.

Standard on the right in the photos,  performance plus on the left.

[nod]

Use a standard pb screw Hilti Senco They all do the same job 

[FuerteStu]

One thing I have noticed is that impact drivers will wreck cheap PR2 bits fairly quickly. 

And when they round off a little they tend to jump out and indent into the plasterboard. 

 

I know there are those who are going to scream about using a standard drill on a specific torque setting, but that wasn't man enough for the 90mm screws to get through the plasterboard and insulation backing and into the larch truss

Edited November 26, 2023 by FuerteStu

[Barnboy]

I've just realised that although I had a PR2 bit in the impact driver the collated gun had a PH2 in it.

I've just put a new PH2 in both and the impact driver is definitely better, collated gun is maybe better but not amazing. 

I think I'll invest in some better quality bits.

[joe90]

15 minutes ago, Barnboy said:

I think I'll invest in some better quality bits.

Definitely, I hate listening to people using old bits and thinking “camming out” is normal.

[Barnboy]

Both bits have only put up about 20 sheets and not been brilliant from the start, but... they're both bits that came with screws or screw guns so probably cheap quality.

Edited November 26, 2023 by Barnboy

[Barnboy]

9 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Definitely, I hate listening to people using old bits and thinking “camming out” is normal.

 

[Barnboy]

Can anyone recommend the best quality make of bits for collated and impact drivers please ?

[FuerteStu]

I've come to realise you should treat screwdriver bits like drill bits. And not expect much from them after a few hours use. 

 

Dewalt are OK, but erbaur seem more long lasting. 

 

They recommend PR2 bits for plasterboard screws because they sit deeper and are less likely to jump out, but I only keep PZ2 and PH2 bits in my driver box. 

 

I've only used plasterboard screws on my self build conversion, and only had issues with PH2 when Over stretching. 

 

I guess if you're doing it day in day out, you might be more fussy! 

[jack]

7 hours ago, FuerteStu said:

I've come to realise you should treat screwdriver bits like drill bits. And not expect much from them after a few hours use.

 

It took me too many years to realise this.

 

A 25 pack of DeWalt bits for a tenner last years, and I'm far less reticent to chuck one out when it starts to show wear.

[joe90]

https://oneclearwinner.co.uk/product/impact-driver-bit-for-plasterboard

[SteamyTea]

Cam Out