Jump to content

Plasterboard Tent


vazz007

Recommended Posts

I’m at my wits end with my self build house , moved in 10 months ago and it’s been a nightmare.

 

Our dream home has become a money pit even after completing and moving in. The droughts in every room are costing me on my energy bills. I’ve now realised what the issue is. The house a concrete block build with insulation in the cavity. The plasterboaring was dot and dab and the tell tale sign was drafts coming in behind sockets thinking this was a simple fix we used putty for sockets in all the sockets this made some improvement but not significant.

 

I’ve read about drilling holes in the plasterboard and filling with foam 100mm apart this is a big job. As it’s 4000sqft house. But I need to do something can’t continue like this.

 

ive purchased a flir camera to target the worst areas. Any one got any susgestions or experience in this area.

 

I know it’s as much my own fault for not taking care when the builders where onsite but it was a difficult and busy period in my life at the time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ughhh.  You have my sympathy.  No point in looking back or anything like that.

  • FLIR camera: good start
  • Airtightness: key issue
  • First thing - a survey of what's leaking in , where, and a judgment of how much - set priorities
  • Go for the easy wins  first - doors, windows, letterbox, sockets, ceiling rose

A concrete block build you say - with cavities filled with insulation. Lets assume (for now) that that job has been done properly. Would you mind telling us the trade name of the build system please? Does the manufacturer have any guidance on airtightness? Has it been followed? 

 

Who designed the house? What was the Building Regs submission - what was the airtightness strategy in that submission. What was your air-tightness score?

 

Break the problem into bits. Prioritise. Source materials.  Ask us for advice on each little bit. Only too pleased to help (And we're nosey as £uck)

 

Head-Down-Arse-Up-Go. 

 

Every single Self Build £uck-Up has its up-side. Look for it and you'll find it.

Good luck. You are among sympathetic friends here.

Ian

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The silicone at skirting level will stop draughts from the plasterboard/block (mini-)'cavity' coming into, and cooling, the room, but it will not stop air-movement behind the boards cooling the board surface, unless full perimeter beads (and preferably cross-hatches) have been used.

 

Where I *know* that boards have been on 'pure dabs' I have injected air-tight foam at approx 50mm centres. N.B, OP, this is *not* to try to get full foam fill behind the boards, it is to close off the perimeters.

DSCF5906.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of contract did you have with your builder? Is there wording to the effect of 'fit for purpose'? Could you show 'objective' evidence that it is not?

 

Can I suggest that you consider making a DIY air-testing fan? I think there are threads on here. Some use a van radiator fan mounted on a board with a hole (and guarding!!) and others an office fan. Extremely useful. This could contribute to your 'objective' (see why I used the inverted commas?!) evidence if you can show pictures/videos of smoke being blown away via incoming draughts from, say, sockets, skirtings, reveals when the fan is running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I second making a DIY pressure testing fan. I made one with a Screwfix office fan and it helps work out where the problem really is and isn't. Like water leaks, air leaks don't always show up where the leak is (the Coanda effect in action?) so being able to make the leak easy to feel and having time to explore where it's coming from is helpful.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My house is a timber frame place. There are a number of stud walls to separate areas i.e. kitchen and living room.

One of the walls also separates the landing and a bedroom.  This stud wall passes all the way from the loft to the foundation.

It leaked around sockets and a door frame.

I found that sealing across the top of it in the loft helped a lot.

I had boarded most of my loft apart from this one bit (F&E tank in the way), so maybe the rest of the boarding had reduced the air passage.

 

Do any of your internal walls seem cold or have draughts?

 

Another place to look for cold spots is between floors i.e. where joists are fitted and maybe weep vents. This can cause cold air to travel quite a way inside a house if the wind barrier (tyvek) is fitted badly.

 

Make a blower from a fan. If you can build a house, you can cut a bit of sheet to fit an open window, then cut a whole in it to tape a fan to.  You are not after pressure readings, just a small pressure difference to cause air movement.

Edited by SteamyTea
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, SteamyTea said:

....

Make a blower from a fan. If you can build a house, you can cut a bit of sheet to fit an open window, then cut a whole in it to tape a fan to.  You are not after pressure readings, just a small pressure difference to cause air movement.

 

It might be an idea to use an opening (for the fan) that's on the down-wind side of the house....

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...