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GSE frame offset?


puntloos

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If you take a look at my current roof:

 

image.thumb.png.5504f6fcfbca65875af00c0591d54888.png

 

I'm sure most of you will agree there's theoretically enough space to the left of the left window. However, I'm told that GSE flashings connect together in such a way that you can't 'stagger' them. Can anyone confirm or deny that one? Does the 'top' panel have to be straight under the bottom panel? And if it is possible, maybe some description I can take to the builder ;)

 

 

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On 26/10/2023 at 07:32, dpmiller said:

we staggered ours. It meant taking a small slice off the side overlap joint and flashing of the "lower" panel, but the upper one covers it sufficiently and then the flashing roll was slid uo the back of it after tiling

 

Clipboard02.thumb.jpg.c77d3b9f3a48e151e62f1669ed8f0536.jpg

Somehow the builder thinks the GSE thinks *have* to 100% click together and I imagine in your case that's not the case? Or is there some 'clicking correctly' happening but you had to somehow trim a few edges?

 

 

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yep, it becomes obvious when you have a couple of panels to-hand where issues will occur. Look at my top row in the photo, there's a raised overlap between each panel and the side flashing sits over that again, that's a height of about 10-15mm that you need to squeeze in underneath whatever...

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The question sounds almost obvious but my solar guy said the GSE is interlocking to ensure watertightness. Sounds sensible by itself but does a roof (the 'top layer' of course) need to be fully watertight? Or do you think you managed to keep watertightness without using GSEs the way they are intended?

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>>> does a roof … need to be fully watertight?

 

Suggest ‘no’ (the membrane is meant to handle the drips, condensation etc) but it’s all a matter of judgement. There’s probably a standard somewhere, but realistically the desired level of water and wind-tightness depend on the house location, orientation etc. That is, if you go off-piste the responsibility is on you (it’s probably on you anyway).

 

Jeez those instructions are hard to read.

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  • 7 months later...
On 26/10/2023 at 08:41, LiamJones said:

Have you done anything special with the velux flashings. My list of materials GSE specced for me include MK08 ODL kits, such that the velux and solar can be neatly tied together in a grid layout. but they seem hard to find in the UK

I'd like to know about this too as I've got solar going in right underneath my velux and I have the standard flashing kit. What did you end up doing in the end?

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They were quite hard to source. I couldn’t find any stock in the UK. I ended up going to midsummer and getting them to order in the side flashings from GSE. 


For the new v2022 frames and for the MK08 velux I needed the following two parts numbers, per window.

 

ART105512 left
ART105498 right

 

i obtained these numbers from technical.support@gseintegration.fr who provided a BOM for my project, attached.

 

 

IMG_9883.png

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12 hours ago, Tom Adcock said:

I've got solar going in right underneath my velux

 
You may well need the gse mk08 top flashing too, I don’t have a part number for that.

 

also worth mentioning the velux flashing kits are the specific ODL ones. I got the black ones ODL MK08 050001

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It could be done but GSE do not make a flashing kit for it so you would need to use lead.

 

The issue is where the top flashing and side flashing would clash, see mine below they clip over the side of the tray and continue over the bottom flashing, in our case lead and the sticky crap looks awful.

 

You would have to go underneath the join and run continuous lead until it meets the bottom flashing ? would be a weak point though.

 

image.thumb.png.594bcd03d4f91f9a420ea53bf85b9db6.png

 

 

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On 26/10/2023 at 07:32, dpmiller said:

we staggered ours. It meant taking a small slice off the side overlap joint and flashing of the "lower" panel, but the upper one covers it sufficiently and then the flashing roll was slid uo the back of it after tiling

 

Clipboard02.thumb.jpg.c77d3b9f3a48e151e62f1669ed8f0536.jpg

 

missing all the top and bottom flashings, assumed these were added after ?

 

what are those white lines at the sides of all the panels ?

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2 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

 

missing all the top and bottom flashings, assumed these were added after ?

 

what are those white lines at the sides of all the panels ?

Correct.

 

not white, silver. They're not pure black panels...

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On 29/06/2024 at 08:50, LiamJones said:

 
You may well need the gse mk08 top flashing too, I don’t have a part number for that.

 

also worth mentioning the velux flashing kits are the specific ODL ones. I got the black ones ODL MK08 050001

So the standard flashing I have for my velux then are useless? The solar array is going across the bottom of three velux spaced out. Nothing up the sides or along the top of the velux. I’m trying to get the solar as close to the bottom of my velux as possible, do you get what I mean? 

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If you try to use the velux lower flexi-flashing alone you'll end up with a gutter behind the PV panel, whereas the GSE top flashing routes the water over the top of the PV. You'd also need to replicate the velux flashing for any areas that *don't* have a velux above them?

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Okay I think I’m getting my head around it. So I need to use the top flashing kit for the GSE in roof trays? I thought the water was supposed to run underneath the panels on the trays, that must be where I’m going wrong. I need to get a velux mounted in my roof structure and put a tray up to it and see what room I’ve got.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 01/07/2024 at 10:25, Tom Adcock said:

Okay I think I’m getting my head around it. So I need to use the top flashing kit for the GSE in roof trays? I thought the water was supposed to run underneath the panels on the trays, that must be where I’m going wrong. I need to get a velux mounted in my roof structure and put a tray up to it and see what room I’ve got.

 

it does run underneath on the panel below as the trays overlap but the first panel you need somewhere for the tiles to sit on hence the top flashing. You could i suppose do away with it and run lead but would still need a batten to kick up the tiles so would end up with a gap under the tiles.

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Goodness this seems hard to figure out.

 

@LiamJones - you seem to have a neat set-up there. Can ask what the horizontal and vertical repeat distances are please? i.e. the 'grid size'.

 

Also, can I ask what size solar panels you're putting in the v2022 frames?

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only the height of the panel changes, the trays are in 2 parts so you just increase/decrease the overlap to suit whatever size panel you have. GSE have an app on their website which plans the whole thing for you.

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Unless I am mistaken, it seems to me this is still really hard:

 

(a) choose a PV panel size that is going to be supported into the future (!). Assume these are all fitted portrait orientation as that's the way Veluxes (?) generally go (choose landscape if you insist).To check for max number of PV panels / PV output - check that it fits on your roof envelope fairly sensibly. Something like minimum 30cm margins at roof edges. Use Easy PV maybe.

(b) the Velux sizes that seem to be supported right now are MK06/08/10 & PK08/10 i.e. 78Wx118H - 140H - 160H & 94Wx140H - 160H (all in cm). Select a Velux size - probably a smaller size than the panel size you have selected. The max Velux sizes seem to be 160cm high, so with common PV panels, that suggests MK10 or PK10.

(c) figure out which GSE frame supports both. Use GSE's app if you like. See if those frames are obtainable in the UK. Otherwise go to (a).

(d) that gives you the regular grid size (presumably the  GSE frame size). Check that the possible Velux locations are vaguely where the architect intended and move them around to fit the grid. Otherwise go to (a) or (b).

(e) figure out the fittings required (maybe the GSE app again) or Easy PV. See whether you can buy those in the UK. If not go back a few steps.

(f) all you have to do is buy all the parts and fit them now ... oh you'll need to do something with batten locations. 

 

Is that right?

 

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1 hour ago, Alan Ambrose said:

Is that right?

Basically, yes. I would say easyPV was a waste of my time, because you can't get things accurate enough to be both sure you put a "sensible maximum" of panels on your roof as well as not overdimension and suddenly have over-paneled or miscalculated.

 

I did some table/spreadsheet a while ago with the panel sizes and worked out the power, one thing I can say is that 95% of panels in a particular "year" have equal power-per-m2 so the size/form factor doesn't really matter, and therefore more expensive panels do not give you more power.

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its actually not too bad but needs planning before you put roof on ideally to make any openings work to the panels so it looks planned. 

 

Fitting is the easy part, screws and a flashing kit dead simple. Personally wouldn't use anything else but microinverters either for the small added cost.

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