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Should I return this immersion heater?


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Bought it to replace one last year but hadn't gotten around to fitting it until today. Then when I look closely it seems to have a poor soldered joint:

IMG_20230410_153846168_HDR.thumb.jpg.9e5e859292de06807f42fbbf34ac81ac.jpg

IMG_20230410_154044437_HDR.thumb.jpg.baeca662f8186067bb87215529f95028.jpg

 

I can see that the solder hasn't properly wetted the end of the tube and this seems to have left a minute gap between the end of the tube and the brass body.

The manufacturer may have tested and passed it but I'm worried that this might leak after repeated heating cycles.

Now debating whether or not to return it.

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18 hours ago, ProDave said:

Don't try arguing the perfection or otherwise of a soldered joint and say it might leak one day.

Piss poor QC but you're probably right. Too late to return it anyway as TS have a 30-day returns policy.

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10 minutes ago, Radian said:

Piss poor QC but you're probably right. Too late to return it anyway as TS have a 30-day returns policy.

 

Buy a new one of the same sort. Put the old one in the new packet and return for a refund.

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50 minutes ago, jack said:

Buy a new one of the same sort. Put the old one in the new packet and return for a refund.

That is a bit naughty.

I wonder if I could buy a car and do the same, one of the online traders is offering 14 days money back.

Buy a dog of a car very cheap, buy same model, swap plates and send the dog back.

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55 minutes ago, jack said:

Buy a new one of the same sort. Put the old one in the new packet and return for a refund.

Last resort. Mailed the manufacturer a photo to see what they think of their product. Expect they'll say it's fine and point out their 1-year warranty. Which will probably be just short of how long it takes for the repeated heating/cooling to work out all the flux that's currently plugging the gap.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Genius.

Went for the last resort option and bought another new one. This morning when it was powered by the solar PV diverter it took out the RCD on the consumer unit.

Megger showing less than between 0 and 100K between Live and Earth. So insulation has broken down. I think it's got water inside the element as it even creates a junction EMF 0.8V through the disimilar metals and liquid electrolyte.

The same crappy solder joints are present:

 

IMG_20230421_182617944_HDR.thumb.jpg.5ffdde96bc5088b6f651ee432d8dc751.jpg

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TS may have a 30 day refund policy for "I have changed my mind"  but surely the first one, you could have taken back and told them "it does not work" and they would have to believe you as they don't have a way to test them in the shop.

 

Now you have 2 to do that with.

 

Try and get a refund and buy a different make.  and leave suitably poor feedback for that item.

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

buy a different make.

 

Funny thing: I need a Titanium one for our very hard water. When I look for alternative makes I see reviews such as this:

 

Quote

Not made by cotherm, Tesla uk ones that are badly made and a waste of time

 

I'm seeing a really annoying pattern here.

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  • 1 month later...

The pattern repeats. This is the second Titanium one I got. Lasted a few weeks then took out the RCD for an obvious reason:

 

IMG_20230601_152236709(1).thumb.jpg.7218f433ca2fb1dc23f5e54b583ac21c.jpg

 

Surprisingly the element still has continuity. I would love to know why it failed.

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I wonder if titanium is really a suitable material for an immersion heater.

Great in a Warthog, but doing a very different job.

Inconel is possible better.

Water types may also make a difference. What works in my very soft water may not last long in the Chalking Chilterns.

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12 hours ago, ProDave said:

You really need to try a different make of immersion heater. 

 

Funny thing that... the stainless steel cylinder rules out any copper sheathed immersion. So that rules out most of the market in alternative brands.

 

Many other manufacturers do indeed offer nickel-chromium alloy (Incoloy) elements but the thermostat pockets are still copper. This is because their designs are focused on their ability to maintain a stable structure during prolonged exposure to high temperatures - not Galvanic corrosion. Direct SS/copper interface mediated by hard water = corrosion. So titanium gets around this but seems to be an engineering challenge too far for the humble domestic immersion heater manufacturer. I'm trying an all-incoloy immersion now but guess who the only mftr. is for these 🙄

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I have not removed the immersion heater that was supplied with my Telford SS cylinder but it has been working for 5 years now without failure, and as an electrician I have yet to find one of that type that has failed.  I have replaced plenty of thermostats and plenty of copper immersions in copper cylinders, but never encountered a failed heating element in a SS cylinder.

 

I am pretty sure my element is made by Cotherm.

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