BadgerBadger Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Our build is finally getting through the masonry section (hurrah!) but it does mean I'm back at the bottom of the learning curve now we're getting on roofing! Can I just sanity check I'm buying the right timber please?! For wall plates can I just use a 47 x 100 C16 treated eased-edge carcassing timber that's widely available in all the merchants, or does it need to be something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 You will need 75 x 100 They don’t need to be treated Most merchants will stock these in 4.8 lengths Its worth going in the BMs and selecting your own As more often than not the Timbers can be badly bent if selected by the years staff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 yep 4x3" although many of the legoland estates are using 4x2... Dont forget tie down straps every 1.8m and half lap any joins. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerBadger Posted March 10, 2023 Author Share Posted March 10, 2023 Thank you - I took the NHBC guidance as my starting point which states "38 x 100 or in accordance with local practice". But can't really find 38x100 easily in merchants, which made me think everyone must do something different! My architect drawings show approx. 50mm total plate height, so currently building the masonry to that level. What are the advantages of going thicker at 75x100, as opposed to 47x100? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 sure its not 48x100 which is bog standard 4x2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 3 hours ago, BadgerBadger said: What are the advantages of going thicker at 75x100, as opposed to 47x100? Much stronger. Blockwork and brickwork isn't that strong on its own and benefits from being tied into itself (cavity wall) or floors and roofs. The wall plate is a structural element. 75mm gives lots of hold for nails and screed etc from the roofing timbers. At 47mm they would pull out much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 Another vote for 4 x 3, although I think 4 x 2 is still acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 I'm just looking at this myself. The only written guidance I can see is the NHBC you mention. I've seen Robin Clevett use 100x47mm on some of his videos. I'm bolting my wall plate to steel so I don't have the blockwork strength issue Iceverge mentions, but I take the point on pull out strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 Wall plate is not structural. It is the stuff underneath that is doing the holding up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerBadger Posted June 24, 2023 Author Share Posted June 24, 2023 I've used 47x100 on one roof section which seems to have worked well, but on the second section my as-built masonry height has worked out lower than anticipated. ~100x100 would bring it back to where it needs to be, bit harder to source, but is this too thick? Or is it ok? Failing that, I might need to take the top block course off and re-cut 🫤 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted June 24, 2023 Share Posted June 24, 2023 12 minutes ago, BadgerBadger said: ~100x100 2 x 4x2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerBadger Posted June 25, 2023 Author Share Posted June 25, 2023 10 hours ago, JohnMo said: 2 x 4x2? I thought about this too, can I just nail them on top of eachother? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 23 hours ago, BadgerBadger said: I thought about this too, can I just nail them on top of eachother? ask the BCO if they are happy with your engineered solution. Maybe easier to get the blockwork cut to the correct height. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 BCO shouldn’t have any problem with 2x stacked timbers, stagger joints and nail together and you have a sound fixing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadgerBadger Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 Thanks all - any immediate concerns with going straight to 100 x 100 do you think? I think I've sourced some, and need some elsewhere anyway, so avoids any doubt about stacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 37 minutes ago, BadgerBadger said: Thanks all - any immediate concerns with going straight to 100 x 100 do you think? I think I've sourced some, and need some elsewhere anyway, so avoids any doubt about stacking. No, just allow for and make a decent fit half lap joint because it will be so much more visible with 100x100 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 8 hours ago, markc said: BCO shouldn’t have any problem with 2x stacked timbers, stagger joints and nail together and you have a sound fixing Agreed. They use double and triple sole plates frequently on timber frame. You probably won't even require half lap joints, just stagger the layers. 47 x 100 treated timber is easily sourced, cut and fixed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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