jamiehamy Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Hi all, I'm a bit stumped with this. I'll attach a few pics. Basically, on the tap unit, there is a threaded brass bolt thingy sticking out onto which the tap arms screws. The bolt however spins - and has an Allen socket inside it. On the tap arm, there is an assembly that pulls out after releasing two grubs screws - but I can't work out a - how to actually tighten it to the wall unit properly and b - how the free spinning bolt on the wall unit actually tightens to the wall unit and seals. Am I being really thick? Pic 1 tap wall unit with free spinning bolt. This is the same on the other tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Pic 2 tap arm. You can see the two grub screws and the brass internals pull out and have rubber seals inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Pic 3 - inside the tap wall unit you can see the socket for an Allen key. If you put the water on gently and cover the end with a finger the water pours out from the wall unit - I cannot fathom how the seals, regardless of how I attach it to the tap arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Is that a Grohe unit ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Not really sure Peter. Came from Lusso Stone but instructions are useless generic nonsense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Can you unscrew the brass barrel and show a pic of that please? From my experience that barrel gets PTFE'd and the hex is used to screw it in tight to get it to seal. As its not 12 o'clock / 6 o'clock sensitive, eg will just turn until tight the nipple left showing also gets PTFE'd to accept the thread in the spout. After you've tiled etc, you tighten the two grub screws and wind the spout on until it's tight against the tile / other, a pic of that would be good too ( with things labelled so we know which is which ) and then you loosen the grub screws to set the spout to 12 o'clock and retightn ready for use. Make any sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 57 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Can you unscrew the brass barrel and show a pic of that please? From my experience that barrel gets PTFE'd and the hex is used to screw it in tight to get it to seal. As its not 12 o'clock / 6 o'clock sensitive, eg will just turn until tight the nipple left showing also gets PTFE'd to accept the thread in the spout. After you've tiled etc, you tighten the two grub screws and wind the spout on until it's tight against the tile / other, a pic of that would be good too ( with things labelled so we know which is which ) and then you loosen the grub screws to set the spout to 12 o'clock and retightn ready for use. Make any sense? It does - thank you. I've actually just been to site and back but didn't see this until I got home. I was being a bit thick - the brass barrel does unscrew. I had it in my head it was some sort of captive arrangement so never actually spent time in threading it! But yes, your description is perfect! I'll take pics when doing the final seal and fit and post back up. Thanks again, Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) Hi All - couple more queries. With the shower head arm and the handheld mount, its a threaded brass barrel that attaches to the Wall and through which water is supplied. I've got 12mm plaster board and 10mm tile/adhesive which means the barrel is too short. Do I just source a longer barrel and use a flanged back nut to secure it to the plasterboard side before connecting? Edited July 24, 2017 by jamiehamy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Shower head arm the same barrel too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Sorry @jamiehamy , only now seeing this. . How do you intend supporting these if you use the connector shown ? I use 1/2" brass backplates for this. Latest one..... As this is all that's supporting the handset outlet doo-dah I always fit backplates so there's a means to fix them mechanically. Dont know if you've sorted it by now though ? ( Stick my username into these posts so I get a ping ?? ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Sorry @jamiehamy , only now seeing this. . How do you intend supporting these if you use the connector shown ? I use 1/2" brass backplates for this. Latest one..... As this is all that's supporting the handset outlet doo-dah I always fit backplates so there's a means to fix them mechanically. Dont know if you've sorted it by now though ? ( Stick my username into these posts so I get a ping ?? ) Ah! Thank you - penny drops! That makes a lot more sense. I've got one shower valve plumbed but have stepped short on the head and handheld. A wee trip to screwfix is in order this morning! Thanks again, Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) 6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Sorry @jamiehamy , only now seeing this. . How do you intend supporting these if you use the connector shown ? I use 1/2" brass backplates for this. Latest one..... As this is all that's supporting the handset outlet doo-dah I always fit backplates so there's a means to fix them mechanically. Dont know if you've sorted it by now though ? ( Stick my username into these posts so I get a ping ?? ) Well every day is a school day. I've never seen a copper pipe soldered directly to a brass fitting. I assume you have to get the fitting very warm to get a bond? Is this a prefered method where the fitting will be inaccessible? Edited July 29, 2017 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Not any hotter than a copper fitting, but you do start gently heating the brass instead of the copper and slowly let the heat transfer through. When the flux starts to fizz and evaporate at the brass / copper junction, that's when it's time to add a bit more flux and start soldering. The trick is to have the lot made up prior to soldering and the pipe running downhill towards the brass backplate, that way you get the solder saturating the joint before welling up and spilling out. It also allows you to look inside the brass fitting and see that there is a solder ring / puddle forming, for reassurance that the joint is fully saturated. You can get these end feed as well as compression, but tbh they both solder up the same so I just crack on with whatever one ive got to hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Well every day is a school day. I've never seen a copper pipe soldered directly to a brass fitting. I assume you have to get the fitting very warm to get a bond? Is this a prefered method where the fitting will be inaccessible? Its not too bad if you get the brass clean and use a decent flux. These are designed for it https://www.bes.co.uk/angled-wallplate-adaptor-15mm-end-feed-x-1-2-bsp-f-6048 Edited July 29, 2017 by PeterW Crossed with the Welsh god of lead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Would a hose union back plate ever see use in this, a bathroom application? Thinking ready soldered joint, just put a bend in the copper. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate-mm/56415 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 I doubt you'd get the bend close enough to the backplate to squeeze it into a stud wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 2 hours ago, dpmiller said: I doubt you'd get the bend close enough to the backplate to squeeze it into a stud wall. I don't know TBH, as you'd get a soldered bend almost flush to the rear of the brass plate where it's already brazed. Not a bad idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: I don't know TBH, as you'd get a soldered bend almost flush to the rear of the brass plate where it's already brazed. Not a bad idea I thought @Onoff meant putting the assy into the bender? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: I thought @Onoff meant putting the assy into the bender? He did. Though thinking about it it'd put a joint in an inaccessible place. Edited July 29, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 I've used one before, but there's no way you could bend it so close, you'd have to put a soldered elbow on, or solder a separate bend you made with a straight coupler 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: I thought @Onoff meant putting the assy into the bender? Ah, I'd not considered such lunacy ? It appears your right, so apologies. @Onoff, you can get my coat for me. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 19 minutes ago, Onoff said: He did. Though thinking about it it'd put a joint in an inaccessible place. It's ok to have a soldered joint in an inaccessible place you know . Average homes have scores of them, and dry carpet . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: It's ok to have a soldered joint in an inaccessible place you know . Average homes have scores of them, and dry carpet . But @Onoff bathroom is FAR from average 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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