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A2A DIY Install


S2D2

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I used welding argon and a ‘borrowed’ nitrogen regulator to pressure test mine, before vac’ing down to 500 microns (I’ve got a testo gauge)

 

I don’t think anyone should be doing mini-splits, f or non-f gas, without these basic tools tbh.

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So ~£30 r290 and a ~£10 valve? Plus the pump/manifold that I should have bought in the first place, should there be any issues.

 

Probably cheaper than an appliances direct quote to fix? Would add six months to the payback period maybe based on what I've seen from the unit. 

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51 minutes ago, HughF said:

I used welding argon and a ‘borrowed’ nitrogen regulator to pressure test mine, before vac’ing down to 500 microns (I’ve got a testo gauge)

 

I don’t think anyone should be doing mini-splits, f or non-f gas, without these basic tools tbh.

 

So I see mention here of welding, argon, nitrogen, regulator, pressure testing, vacuum pumps, test gauges. Also there's flaring and connectors of various sizes and so on, plus the R290 itself. 

I'm sure this is 'basic' for someone who knows the ropes, but I've never soldered a pipe of any type in my life (electronics plenty, wet plumbing never), so while I took this on as a learning challenge, I definitely underestimated how much learning there would be.

 

I'm in herts, I think everyone here wants to service large installs for commercial and mansions. 

 

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21 minutes ago, joth said:

 

So I see mention here of welding, argon, nitrogen, regulator, pressure testing, vacuum pumps, test gauges. Also there's flaring and connectors of various sizes and so on, plus the R290 itself. 

I'm sure this is 'basic' for someone who knows the ropes, but I've never soldered a pipe of any type in my life (electronics plenty, wet plumbing never), so while I took this on as a learning challenge, I definitely underestimated how much learning there would be.

 

I'm in herts, I think everyone here wants to service large installs for commercial and mansions. 

 

I think for DIY sticking to the pump/manifold for a vacuum test and using the provided mechanical connection is enough, unless you actually have mechanical damage to a pipe causing the leak?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Perhaps a vacuum is enough.

 

Perhaps you have a Friday unit.

 

This one is going back to the shop. Not my flare leaking but the factory brazing where the pipework branches. I thought it was my flares at first as the sniffer went nuts when inserted in the factory insulation that I'd dutifully wrapped around that pipework; but it was actually refrigerant leaking down the insulation from the factory joined end.

 

 

Heated diode detector for F-Gases with a fan to suck in air for sampling. About £60 inc VAT. Only lasts about 50 hours but senses F-Gas (R32, R314a, R410A, R...everything except R290) leaks down to 3 grams per year. Sensitivity turned way down here because it went bananas *the moment* I came indoors after checking the outdoor unit. (always zero these outdoors)

 

This gets you about as close, in terms of detecting leaks, as pressure testing with nitrogen to say 30 bar. If the gas wasn't pishing out I'd have the unit in full heating mode to maximise the pressure on the lines / maximise leaks when doing the checks.

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2 hours ago, markocosic said:

Perhaps a vacuum is enough.

 

Perhaps you have a Friday unit.

 

This one is going back to the shop. Not my flare leaking but the factory brazing where the pipework branches. I thought it was my flares at first as the sniffer went nuts when inserted in the factory insulation that I'd dutifully wrapped around that pipework; but it was actually refrigerant leaking down the insulation from the factory joined end.

 

 

Heated diode detector for F-Gases with a fan to suck in air for sampling. About £60 inc VAT. Only lasts about 50 hours but senses F-Gas (R32, R314a, R410A, R...everything except R290) leaks down to 3 grams per year. Sensitivity turned way down here because it went bananas *the moment* I came indoors after checking the outdoor unit. (always zero these outdoors)

 

This gets you about as close, in terms of detecting leaks, as pressure testing with nitrogen to say 30 bar. If the gas wasn't pishing out I'd have the unit in full heating mode to maximise the pressure on the lines / maximise leaks when doing the checks.

Oh dear. Confused when you say it detects everything except R290 though, is this a different unit?

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Heated diodes break down the flourinated/chlorinated molecules to sniff them.

 

You don't get those in R290 (propane) units do can't use the sniffers for these unfortunately.

 

The example was "perhaps you did nothing wrong with your assembly and it is actually the factory part that's leaking" - not unheard of!

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8 hours ago, markocosic said:

Heated diodes break down the flourinated/chlorinated molecules to sniff them.

 

You don't get those in R290 (propane) units do can't use the sniffers for these unfortunately.

 

The example was "perhaps you did nothing wrong with your assembly and it is actually the factory part that's leaking" - not unheard of!

Yes sorry I just assumed the video was the electriq unit but that's r290 so can't be. They look very similar!

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33 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

"normal" cheap heated catalysed pellet sensor will do fuel gases

 

What sensitivity?

 

Any examples suitable for leaks of say 5g/year? (about what you could tolerate for kit with a 10 year life/service interval)

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7 hours ago, markocosic said:

 

What sensitivity?

 

Any examples suitable for leaks of say 5g/year? (about what you could tolerate for kit with a 10 year life/service interval)

No idea sorry, I use them only for gross leaks of anaerobic gas mix as only the small percentage of hydrogen in the mix is easily detected.

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