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Roofing materials


Pocster

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Hey all,

 

I'm about to order everything I think I need for my pitched roof (30 degrees).

As I'm doing this myself any advice welcome!!

 

There seems to be a national shortage of concrete tiles which is making things tricky.

 

So I will need:

 

The tiles :-) (have been told slate is a good choice given the concrete shortage)

Ridge tiles

Rafter tray?

Verge kit (dry seems easier) such as : https://www.jjroofingsupplies.co.uk/ubbink-dry-verge-for-tiles/

Dry ridge kit https://www.jjroofingsupplies.co.uk/ubbink-ventilated-dry-ridge-kit/

Eaves guard?

Breathable membrane (but which one!; so many to choose from!)

 

BTW I'm not recommending that company but they do have some good videos!

 

A stupid question! ( o.O ); once I've got the membrane on and batons ; surely just walking up and down the batons there is a massively increased

risk of putting my foot on the membrane and ripping it. Or is there some technique to avoid this??? Kneel on a piece of ply??

 

Cheers

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You will need something to screw the dry ridge to. You level of the top of the point of your truss and screw 50*50 along your length of roof. This gives you something to screw the clips that hold the tiles on to. 

Same goes with the dry verge kit don't cut the battens short.

What about any valleys??

The new type of breathable felt is very strong  so you won't put your foot through it. Should only be walking on the battens.

Don't forget to make sure your scaffolding is high enough with enough handrails to stop you if you happen to to or fall.

A tool belt with a pouch for nails will be a massive help. 

Are you doing this all yourself??? If so chalk line is handy for setting out your battens. 

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3 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

You will need something to screw the dry ridge to. You level of the top of the point of your truss and screw 50*50 along your length of roof. This gives you something to screw the clips that hold the tiles on to. 

Same goes with the dry verge kit don't cut the battens short.

What about any valleys??

The new type of breathable felt is very strong  so you won't put your foot through it. Should only be walking on the battens.

Don't forget to make sure your scaffolding is high enough with enough handrails to stop you if you happen to to or fall.

A tool belt with a pouch for nails will be a massive help. 

Are you doing this all yourself??? If so chalk line is handy for setting out your battens. 

Thanks.

Yes sorry; in one of the videos I saw the wood running across the trusses i.e. at the apex of the roof.

No valleys (phew!); just a simple roof :-)

I hate heights!; even though it's only 1 story and at 30 degrees I'll have to grow a pair to get on it B|

Chalk could be useful. I noticed in the videos that the membrane usually has guide lines marked on it for this.

 

Cheers

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38 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Concrete interlocking tiles will be a much easier job than slate.

 

Ok - but can you get them flat ?

i don't like the ridged traditional look 

 

also concrete ones in short supply ; lead time 15 weeks !!

Edited by pocster
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24 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

As always plenty of flat concrete tiles here!!!!

https://www.laganproducts.com/lagan-tile/products/roof-tiles/flat-tile

 

Waiting for the sales rep to get back too me.

 

Even clay Sandtoft 20/20 which I had my hopes on are sold out due to the lack of concrete. Lead times are 2018!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I hope your link turns good!!

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Tiles this side of the water are very difficult at the moment - bought mine at a 10% premium on the price but at least was guaranteed to finish the job before October ...!

 

@pocster don't rely on the marking on the membrane for setting out your battens - it's only there to make it easier to staple onto a joist when you're putting it on to start with. Gauging stick is needed ....!

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1 minute ago, PeterW said:

Tiles this side of the water are very difficult at the moment - bought mine at a 10% premium on the price but at least was guaranteed to finish the job before October ...!

 

@pocster don't rely on the marking on the membrane for setting out your battens - it's only there to make it easier to staple onto a joist when you're putting it on to start with. Gauging stick is needed ....!

OK!; chalk to marking noted!

 

Yes I seem to pick all the materials no one has!. Architect has just told me I can't use slate (even if I did it would quadruple the cost of tiling!).

Hoping laganproducts linked by declan52 comes good and not £2 a tile!!!

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Another "I'v been thinking " question :-)

 

As I'm doing all this on my own I was planning obviously to felt/baton the entire roof then bring up the tiles as and when I need them per side.

 

Is this ok? Just thinking about the weight distribution on the timbers ...........

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It's much quicker and easier on the legs if you take a day or 2 and fully load the roof out. The tiling bit is very quick once you get into a groove. 

How are you getting the tiles onto the roof???

As mine is a bungalow I used 4 trestles to create a long ramp about a 30 degree pitch and walked the tiles up on to the Kwikstage and then onto the roof. Took me, the wife , my da and 2 kids 3 full days and a lot of swear words too loud it out but we got there in the end. Had legs like an Olympic champion by the time the roof was done.  

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2 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

It's much quicker and easier on the legs if you take a day or 2 and fully load the roof out. The tiling bit is very quick once you get into a groove. 

How are you getting the tiles onto the roof???

As mine is a bungalow I used 4 trestles to create a long ramp about a 30 degree pitch and walked the tiles up on to the Kwikstage and then onto the roof. Took me, the wife , my da and 2 kids 3 full days and a lot of swear words too loud it out but we got there in the end. Had legs like an Olympic champion by the time the roof was done.  

I guess something similar - though just me lol 

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I'm still concerned about walking on the battons as I move up the roof and also walking on the tiles.

 

Shall I use some crawl board or something? ; perhaps just a scaffold board that I can lay across battons as I move up the roof and then the same to lay across the tiles as I move up. This sound sensible and safe????

Edited by pocster
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A few tips

 

I used Marley Edgemere which is a flat interlocking concrete tile. I had the one with a "riven" finish being the only one that looked slightly like slate so the planners would allow it.

 

I carried them up in batches with help from swmbo. I reckon by time I had done the roof, I had climbed the equivalent of 2 Munro's up and down the ladder. My knees knew it.

 

Do your roof the "Scottish way" and fit solid sarking board (OSB or ply) before the membrane, then you won't have to worry where you stand.  I used Protect VP400 plus non tenting membrane.

 

You need nails at the top, and clips at the bottom for most interlocking tiles.

 

Start bottom right and work up and left and you can do the whole roof without having to stand on any tiles you have already laid. This assumes the gable end is scaffolded so you can work from the scaffold to complete the run.

 

I used a wet diamond tile cutter, intended for cutting ceramic tiles but it did a good job of cutting concrete roof tiles.

 

If there is an area you might want to remove, then don't nail that bit,  screw them instead so they are easier to remove some tiles.

 

The purists will say you should load a roof evenly, but I just tiled one side then the other and had no problems.

 

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11 minutes ago, ProDave said:

A few tips

 

I used Marley Edgemere which is a flat interlocking concrete tile. I had the one with a "riven" finish being the only one that looked slightly like slate so the planners would allow it.

 

I carried them up in batches with help from swmbo. I reckon by time I had done the roof, I had climbed the equivalent of 2 Munro's up and down the ladder. My knees knew it.

 

Do your roof the "Scottish way" and fit solid sarking board (OSB or ply) before the membrane, then you won't have to worry where you stand.  I used Protect VP400 plus non tenting membrane.

 

You need nails at the top, and clips at the bottom for most interlocking tiles.

 

Start bottom right and work up and left and you can do the whole roof without having to stand on any tiles you have already laid. This assumes the gable end is scaffolded so you can work from the scaffold to complete the run.

 

I used a wet diamond tile cutter, intended for cutting ceramic tiles but it did a good job of cutting concrete roof tiles.

 

If there is an area you might want to remove, then don't nail that bit,  screw them instead so they are easier to remove some tiles.

 

The purists will say you should load a roof evenly, but I just tiled one side then the other and had no problems.

 

Thanks!

 

Yes I can see that doing a staggered up and left means I don't have to stand on any tiles. But when I come to the ridge (a dry fit system) I'll have too won't I??

I was going to do the same as you. Batton then tile one side; then the other.

 

I suppose I could OSB out the entire roof so I feel 'happier' when I'm on it. Could even get the OSB sheets up from inside to save carrying them around.

 

I have scaffold for the gable ends so that's not an issue.

 

Cheers!

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Re ridge tiles.

 

I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

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On ‎7‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 14:23, pocster said:

The tiles :-) (have been told slate is a good choice given the concrete shortage)

Ridge tiles

 

Not sure about concrete tiles but for clay you sometimes need three types of tile..

 

Standard

Tile and a half (for the verge)

Eaves tiles (used at ridge and eaves)

 

Sorry of you know this.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Re ridge tiles.

 

I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

 

+1

 

Just remember... as you shuffle your bottom backwards along the roof concentrating on the ridge tiles... look behind you every now and again :-) 

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7 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Re ridge tiles.

 

I uses the dry ridge system that comes as a roll of stuff and some plastic brackets. Tile one side, then as you tile the other, roll out a bit more and fit ridge tiles as you go, so you can do that as well without standing n any finished roof.

Ah now you've confused me o.O

 

If I'm battening & tiling one side as I go then when I'm at the ridge I can install the dry ridge roll out stuff but can't fit the ridge tile until I am the same point on the other side ; or is that what you meant ?? B|

Edited by pocster
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4 minutes ago, Temp said:

 

+1

 

Just remember... as you shuffle your bottom backwards along the roof concentrating on the ridge tiles... look behind you every now and again :-) 

I hate heights like you can't imagine! so I will be looking behind me every second!!

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