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Newbie to ashp - cost is scary!


sirpatchuk

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Here is a video from Roger Bisby at Skillbuilder about cavity wall insulation. 
 

 

He plays with a straight bat in my experience. I know nothing about the topic of cavity wall insulation, but he talks favourably about most methods of insulating a cavity. He does highlight the need to have adequate ventilation if you improve the airtightness of your walls to let moist air escape the thermal envelope. 

 

Edited by Nick Laslett
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27 minutes ago, sirpatchuk said:

 

This is where I am going to get confused!  So @JohnMoare you saying 'no no' to https://isothane.com/products/technitherm/ but go with the Insta SuperBead....

 

I would just reiterate the dimension of how much a given type of system relies on the skill of the installer. Foam injection systems offer the maximum available thermal performance but require a high degree of professionalism to make sure the mixture is applied correctly. The closed cell variety also has a big impact on the breathability of the structure hence the essential need for a condensation analysis which will probably mandate installing a new, whole house, ventilation system.

 

As I said, the EPS bead systems are idiot proof, do not interfere with the breathability of the structure, are cheap and perform reasonably well.

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8 hours ago, PeterW said:

With no cavity wall and the spacing on those pipes I’m surprised you’ve not got bigger bills ..! Get the insulation in, nothing you can do about spacing now. Also - is that filled with a pug mix or just spacers as the spacers shouldn’t be hanging down between the joists. Basically you need to get them tight up against the boards above, looking at that they are draped. 

It’s almost certainly just a bent mess of spreader plates under the chipboard. It’s a miracle it works at all really…. Shocking install.

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New poster here!

 

I’ve had EPS bead cavity wall insulation installed in my 1930s semi earlier this year and so far it’s made a world of difference for the better. So much warmer, and more noticeably is that it is quieter in the house, especially when it’s windy. 
 

Only downside is that as the walls are all warm (great!) it’s shown the very poor quality install of the French doors in our dining room up as the lower edges are starting to go mouldy (always been cold in there since we bought the place). I’m getting them removed, bricking it up a bit and putting a quality window in. 

 


 

 

 

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We have grey EPS beads in our 1960s cavity, no problems so far 18 months in, though we stuck 100mm EWI on the outside too so I’m guessing damp will be unlikely from such a set up. Do wish we’d gone for triple glazing though as the obvious issue is our new aluclad windows are on the crap side of performance & we seem to have a lot of them!

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On 01/12/2022 at 10:14, IGP said:

 

Only downside is that as the walls are all warm (great!) it’s shown the very poor quality install of the French doors in our dining room up as the lower edges are starting to go mouldy (always been cold in there since we bought the place).

HI IGP, I think it's quite common for condensation to become more focussed on the remaining cold areas after improving the insulation elsewhere. I've been wondering why - given that the unimproved regions are no colder than before. I suppose it could be that the vapor content of the air mass inside has changed with the warmer air (due to better insulation) being able to hold more water. Another way of putting this is to say the walls were removing some of the water through distributed (less noticable) condensation. The only other explanation might be that the insulation  has also reduced air leakage through the cavity (via cracks around windows etc.) and this was formerly a bigger path for vapor to the outside world.

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