JohnMo Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 No I am saying get all the information first, condensation analysis is the key part of any decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Laslett Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 (edited) Here is a video from Roger Bisby at Skillbuilder about cavity wall insulation. He plays with a straight bat in my experience. I know nothing about the topic of cavity wall insulation, but he talks favourably about most methods of insulating a cavity. He does highlight the need to have adequate ventilation if you improve the airtightness of your walls to let moist air escape the thermal envelope. Edited November 29, 2022 by Nick Laslett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 27 minutes ago, sirpatchuk said: This is where I am going to get confused! So @JohnMoare you saying 'no no' to https://isothane.com/products/technitherm/ but go with the Insta SuperBead.... I would just reiterate the dimension of how much a given type of system relies on the skill of the installer. Foam injection systems offer the maximum available thermal performance but require a high degree of professionalism to make sure the mixture is applied correctly. The closed cell variety also has a big impact on the breathability of the structure hence the essential need for a condensation analysis which will probably mandate installing a new, whole house, ventilation system. As I said, the EPS bead systems are idiot proof, do not interfere with the breathability of the structure, are cheap and perform reasonably well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 40 minutes ago, Nick Laslett said: He plays with a straight bat in my experience. Not about heat pumps, where he perpetuates all the old tripe about them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 8 hours ago, PeterW said: With no cavity wall and the spacing on those pipes I’m surprised you’ve not got bigger bills ..! Get the insulation in, nothing you can do about spacing now. Also - is that filled with a pug mix or just spacers as the spacers shouldn’t be hanging down between the joists. Basically you need to get them tight up against the boards above, looking at that they are draped. It’s almost certainly just a bent mess of spreader plates under the chipboard. It’s a miracle it works at all really…. Shocking install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGP Posted December 1, 2022 Share Posted December 1, 2022 New poster here! I’ve had EPS bead cavity wall insulation installed in my 1930s semi earlier this year and so far it’s made a world of difference for the better. So much warmer, and more noticeably is that it is quieter in the house, especially when it’s windy. Only downside is that as the walls are all warm (great!) it’s shown the very poor quality install of the French doors in our dining room up as the lower edges are starting to go mouldy (always been cold in there since we bought the place). I’m getting them removed, bricking it up a bit and putting a quality window in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rh2205 Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 We have grey EPS beads in our 1960s cavity, no problems so far 18 months in, though we stuck 100mm EWI on the outside too so I’m guessing damp will be unlikely from such a set up. Do wish we’d gone for triple glazing though as the obvious issue is our new aluclad windows are on the crap side of performance & we seem to have a lot of them! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted December 7, 2022 Share Posted December 7, 2022 On 01/12/2022 at 10:14, IGP said: Only downside is that as the walls are all warm (great!) it’s shown the very poor quality install of the French doors in our dining room up as the lower edges are starting to go mouldy (always been cold in there since we bought the place). HI IGP, I think it's quite common for condensation to become more focussed on the remaining cold areas after improving the insulation elsewhere. I've been wondering why - given that the unimproved regions are no colder than before. I suppose it could be that the vapor content of the air mass inside has changed with the warmer air (due to better insulation) being able to hold more water. Another way of putting this is to say the walls were removing some of the water through distributed (less noticable) condensation. The only other explanation might be that the insulation has also reduced air leakage through the cavity (via cracks around windows etc.) and this was formerly a bigger path for vapor to the outside world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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