PeterW Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Very tidy ..! Got any photos of the sides and the down pipes .? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 On 27/06/2017 at 16:09, PeterW said: If it's not exposed to sunlight then ordinary rectangular extract duct would work - 220mm x 40mm would be easy to work with. A bit of a work in progress but you get the idea. If you're wondering why the battens are on the p*ss it was my young Nephew following my instructions to follow precisely the black slats/tapes that MBC tack on to show you where the timbers are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Take it there is some CT1 going on those joints as some are going to end up the "wrong" way up..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 6 minutes ago, PeterW said: Take it there is some CT1 going on those joints as some are going to end up the "wrong" way up..?? All the joints are solvent welded. The top joint will be bonded to the grp tonge using the stuff @Nickfromwales recommended. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 You'll do well to find anything better than Sikaflex EBT, both as a sealant and an adhesive. Tbh, I'd have done the jointing with it too, but sounds like you've already welded it with the solvent. Squeeze the joints to see if the solvent cracks away from the shiny plastic, if it does, it'll need a secondary seal . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You'll do well to find anything better than Sikaflex EBT, both as a sealant and an adhesive. Tbh, I'd have done the jointing with it too, but sounds like you've already welded it with the solvent. Squeeze the joints to see if the solvent cracks away from the shiny plastic, if it does, it'll need a secondary seal . They've had the squeeze test. All joint faces were abraided with 60g and washed with acetone. I don't do shiny, I'm far too dull and abrasive for that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 A few questions: Was that marine ply you used and how thick? That fibreglass looks super smooth. First time was it? Mate just did his and it "lifted" a bit in patches. Do the long, ply gutter sections taper outward so if they fill up with ice it'll "pop" out? Ice would be my only worry in those hidden sections. I'll still probably do it myself though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 7 minutes ago, Barney12 said: They've had the squeeze test. All joint faces were abraided with 60g and washed with acetone. I don't do shiny, I'm far too dull and abrasive for that Why do I not see anybody using pipe cleaner before they glue a joint? I recently brought some in the plumbers merchant and when I asked for it the lad said that he had some out the back but they don't sell much and he didn't even know what it did. I used to glue up lots of pressure fittings and if you didn't clean properly they would blow apart. Nice roof btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Why do I not see anybody using pipe cleaner before they glue a joint? I recently brought some in the plumbers merchant and when I asked for it the lad said that he had some out the back but they don't sell much and he didn't even know what it did. I used to glue up lots of pressure fittings and if you didn't clean properly they would blow apart. Nice roof btw. If I think there's a chance of contamination I'll use foam cleaner, but tbh, with a good few revolutions you can actually see the white of the PVC dissolving into the solvent weld. At that stage your never getting a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: A few questions: Was that marine ply you used and how thick? That fibreglass looks super smooth. First time was it? Mate just did his and it "lifted" a bit in patches. Do the long, ply gutter sections taper outward so if they fill up with ice it'll "pop" out? Ice would be my only worry in those hidden sections. I'll still probably do it myself though. Yes, 11mm. They were also pre-coated with a fibreglass mat and resin even before making it to the roof. It then had two lots of 450g matting and resin. Frankly the ply could rot away and the gutter won't go too far! It's not super smooth. The picture is doing it more justice than deserved. But, for reasons that can only be described as insanity I did power sand the base coat with 40g before top coating. Lots of stuff I've read online says you can add top coat within 24h of the base coat without sanding and washing with acetone. But personally I wouldn't at this time of year where drying times are aceleralted. A quick power sand and wash doesn't take long really. Well. Interesting point. They did have a 5 degree taper but tbh by the time the glass was wrapped from the roof into the gutter they got lost. But, as above the GRP is pretty darn strong. I can't see ice breaking it. The down pipes will be sandwiched by the heavily insulated dormer wall and 20mm of timber. It would need to be pretty cold to damage them. But I guess we'll have to wait and see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 11 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Why do I not see anybody using pipe cleaner before they glue a joint? I recently brought some in the plumbers merchant and when I asked for it the lad said that he had some out the back but they don't sell much and he didn't even know what it did. I used to glue up lots of pressure fittings and if you didn't clean properly they would blow apart. Nice roof btw. Thank you Just use acetone or even cellulose thinners. It will do the same job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 The job is done. Decided on a custom made lead exit for the gutter. It will stop the cedar from getting wet and ensure the water drains onto the slates. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 Very tidy ..! Need to patent that idea .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 11 hours ago, PeterW said: Very tidy ..! Need to patent that idea .... Just did That looks really neat, you must be suitably smug ? Only problem now is resisting the urge to sit on the roof in the p155ing down rain to watch the rainwater doing what it should. Would be suitably satisfying though, none the less. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 29 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just did That looks really neat, you must be suitably smug ? Only problem now is resisting the urge to sit on the roof in the p155ing down rain to watch the rainwater doing what it should. Would be suitably satisfying though, none the less. . Erm, already done that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 FWIW, the pipe cleaner for solvent weld pressure pipe is usually MEK, which is very similar in effect to acetone, but slightly less harmful. Buying MEK or acetone is a lot cheaper than buying the small cans of pipe cleaner. For example, you can buy 5 litres of acetone for about £20 delivered, or 5 litres of MEK for around £22 delivered, yet about 1/2 litre of "proper" pipe cleaner will set you back around £8 to £10. If you want to be really cheapskate, then you can easily make up large quantities of solvent cement yourself. A mix of around 60% Tetrahydrofuran and 40% MEK, plus some offcuts of PVC pipe cut into small bits and dissolved into the mix (to give it gap filling properties) works every bit as well as the stuff you pay an arm and a leg for in small bottles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 3 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Erm, already done that I'd have been rolling around on that roof naked it 12 hours ago, Barney12 said: The job is done. Decided on a custom made lead exit for the gutter. It will stop the cedar from getting wet and ensure the water drains onto the slates. Flash git! Get it...it's like a flashing joke mixed with a heap of jealousy.....I'll get me coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 39 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just did That looks really neat, you must be suitably smug ? Only problem now is resisting the urge to sit on the roof in the p155ing down rain to watch the rainwater doing what it should. Would be suitably satisfying though, none the less. . I think you'll find it was my idea and this is a public forum so it's out there anyway pieboy..! I was thinking the same though - nice to sit and watch it ..! @Barney12 are there many trees that could potentially dump leaves onto it ..? Or is it pretty exposed up there ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: pieboy I've been eating facking granola......can even see my feet now ✌️️✌️️✌️️✌️️ Oldest son has even slowed, not stopped, with the jiggling of my man-boobs. ? Ill soon be looking like a Beckham / Pitt hybrid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Ill soon be looking like a Beckham / Pitt hybrid A tattooed angry monkey with dodgy facial hair .........?? Sounds like you're nearly there... @Barney12 that outlet seems very flat at the edge - you may want to just dink the middle with something round like bit of copper pipe to get the water to flow down the centre and stop it pooling at the bottom. Only needs 2-3mm and you won't notice it from the ground anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 7 minutes ago, PeterW said: A tattooed angry monkey with dodgy facial hair .........?? Sounds like you're nearly there... Pennis. ? Chiselled Adonis was what I meant. Back to roofs we go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 42 minutes ago, PeterW said: I think you'll find it was my idea and this is a public forum so it's out there anyway pieboy..! I was thinking the same though - nice to sit and watch it ..! @Barney12 are there many trees that could potentially dump leaves onto it ..? Or is it pretty exposed up there ..?? Nearest tree line is to the west about 20-30m away. But I think I'm going to make up a stainless grid for the inlet as getting to the dormer won't exactly be easy. But then a standard gutter would have the same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 23 minutes ago, PeterW said: A tattooed angry monkey with dodgy facial hair .........?? Sounds like you're nearly there... @Barney12 that outlet seems very flat at the edge - you may want to just dink the middle with something round like bit of copper pipe to get the water to flow down the centre and stop it pooling at the bottom. Only needs 2-3mm and you won't notice it from the ground anyway. I was only thinking the exact same thing last night. I was going to put a 3mm lip on the edges of the lead but your dent idea is a good one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 A dent makes the water flow to the centre - makes a dip that draws the last of the water in. Bit of copper pipe and a sharp tap with a hammer will sort it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Smashing work and a great read...the best of buildhub when you can follow a thread from thoughts to idea through to completion. Lots of clever comments, great handiwork and pics too! Well done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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