June 27, 20179 yr Author 1 hour ago, PeterW said: If it's not exposed to sunlight then ordinary rectangular extract duct would work - 220mm x 40mm would be easy to work with. Thanks. Funnily enough that's an idea I had hit apon. The best I could find though was 4x2(110mmx53mm). I can't see the size you mention online?
June 27, 20179 yr 28 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Thanks. Funnily enough that's an idea I had hit apon. The best I could find though was 4x2(110mmx53mm). I can't see the size you mention online? https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/rectangular-ventilation-duct/rectangular-duct-flat-duct-1mtr/-204mm-x-60mm/ will look for the 220mm
June 27, 20179 yr https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/manrose-2000mm-flat-duct-225x25mm-white-371729?vat=1&shopping=true&mkwid=s_dm&pcrid=157072888259&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CJurqIHC3tQCFca77Qodmo8P4g may have to watch it for blocking though.
June 28, 20179 yr Once you get through the design, one option is to make up a pattern and manufacture the fibreglass bit in your workshop rather than pitter-patter about on the roof. Then you simply have to do the joints while outside. In that case you are able to make a couple of spares. F
June 28, 20179 yr Author 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: Once you get through the design, one option is to make up a pattern and manufacture the fibreglass bit in your workshop rather than pitter-patter about on the roof. Then you simply have to do the joints while outside. In that case you are able to make a couple of spares. F Yep that's exactly what I'm intending. I'm going to try and find time for a prototype run tonight
June 28, 20179 yr If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Edit : Don't use silicone on any of this stuff as it has a very short life . CT1 or Sikaflex ?
June 28, 20179 yr Author 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Yep that was my plan and a grp 'male' connection that will sit down into the 'female' of first bend. I'll then bond it using the Sicoflex you mentioned before. The other joints will be solvent welded.
June 28, 20179 yr Why the right angle kink? That looks like an excellent hidden trip point for blockages. I think you want something you can get drainage rods through from both ends if necessary. Or perhaps a chimney brush. Rodding or jetting points? Minimum radius to follow that of drains? I think I would argue for a longer grp section with a suitable kink to join a little lower, or moving the letterbox section to make say 30-45 degree the maximum angle. I would also consider making that section if cladding relatively removable just in case. It is up in the air so people may not look too closely. Vertical scarf joint and coach screws on that particular batten (or us it counterbatten!), and stainless screws for the cladding? Or mount the whole vertical slice of cladding and batten on a hook or two? Even a plastic batten if lighter? F Edited June 28, 20179 yr by Ferdinand
June 28, 20179 yr Author 27 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Why the right angle kink? No choice as it has to move away from the corner cladding detail. Can't move the letterbox "up" the slope, that wont work! Its still easily rodded with a flexi wire. I might see if two 45 degrees and a short join works better though.
June 28, 20179 yr 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Edit : Don't use silicone on any of this stuff as it has a very short life . CT1 or Sikaflex ? You could GRP the join.
June 28, 20179 yr 2 hours ago, Ferdinand said: You could GRP the join. A bit brittle for one, and you'll need to do a bonded join somewhere as they're ( the roof and the down'pipe' ) dissimilar materials.
June 28, 20179 yr Author 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: A bit brittle for one, and you'll need to do a bonded join somewhere as they're ( the roof and the down'pipe' ) dissimilar materials. Agreed. There is nothing better than a 'male' to 'female' union as long as you've got a bit of flex Edited June 28, 20179 yr by Barney12
June 28, 20179 yr Author 10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: That ship has sailed Sailed? Mines bloody lost at sea!
June 29, 20179 yr I see and get peripherally involved in "guttering" on commercial buildings. You need to be bloody careful that where you have hidden, male into female joints that they're watertight. I repeatedly see blockages further down the line, backing up, and there's no second line of defense. It overflows the joint and water enters the building! Regular rodding / maintenance is essential.
June 29, 20179 yr I think in this case the gutter and pipe is on the outside of the building but behind the cladding however I agree it does need careful design to stop any opportunity for blockages to cause issues. I would put one either end just to be on the safe side.
June 29, 20179 yr Author Pre-made the gutter sections today in the workshop. The bottom section to make the 'male' is just a former that will be removed (hence the foil and the duct tape).
June 29, 20179 yr 15 hours ago, PeterW said: I think in this case the gutter and pipe is on the outside of the building but behind the cladding however I agree it does need careful design to stop any opportunity for blockages to cause issues. I would put one either end just to be on the safe side. I'm still amazed that gutters I see can have no fall in them by design On 2017-6-28 at 14:48, Barney12 said: Resorted to bit of quick Sketchup Barsteward! This looks so cool I love it. Even wondering if I could steal the idea when I redo my dormers.
July 16, 20179 yr Author 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: Very neat ..! Use a kit ..? I made all the formers and upstands by hand from machined timber. The GRP roof materials are Metrodeck from CFS Fibreglass. Im told it will last 50 years, which is handy as I won't live anything like that long
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