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Posted

I'm making some drawings for a kitchen cabinet/base unit.  I found this page with some useful dimensions for clearance gaps but have a question...

 

https://www.diyhomefit.co.uk/measuring-up-guide.html

 

measure3.gifimage.png.d9cc164714d1e5ec721f80b63151cc88.png

 

 

What I'm interested to know is what gap (if any) is normally provided behind the door where the red arrow is on the drawing above. I think a small gap might help ensure the door fully closes. For example if the door isn't perfectly flat? Anyone know if the hinges normally used on kitchen cabinet doors are intended to have a gap here? I know they are normally adjustable so a gap could be created but I need to subtract the default gap from the front to back depth of the unit. 

Posted

Cabinet hinges are adjustable in/out and the movement is there to get adjacent doors to sit flush. Aim for no gap but it rarely happens

Posted

On my units about 2mm, dictated by the thickness of the little rubber dampers that sit on the non-hinge side and make the door close silently. The hinge is adjusted to match this so the door sits flat.

Posted (edited)

Cad done...

 

Not all the lines on the drawing will be on the final unit. Has radiused corners to suit a washbasin that sits on top. The way it sits means I had to allow for a small gap behind the dummy drawer front or there would be a gap between the sides and the wall its going against. 

 

Might do something to pretty up the toe recess. 

 

Its actually going in a bathroom.

image.png.6f0fbc7c296e09f2e17c1ca7b36357ef.png

Edited by Temp
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

First go at assembling it. Not all glued up yet.  It still needs taking apart, sanding, priming and painting before reassembly. This is the first thing I've made by trusting the CAD dimensions. Normally I would cut part A and then cut part B to fit part A. This time I pretty much cut everything to the dimensions extracted from the CAD and crossed my fingers. Working OK so far.

 

Mostly water resistant MDF so will need sealing well and a good paint job. The rounded corners were made by cutting a 75mm Diameter Poplar cylinder/dowel into four bits lengthwise. The top drawer is fake. The lower doors have soft close Blum hinges.

 

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.

 

  • Like 9
  • 1 month later...
Posted

All painted up and plumbed in. Really pleased with the way the rounded corners turned out. You keep wanting to stroke them. I used two coats of Rust-oleum kitchen cabinet paint (which went on well with a brush) over Zinsser primer. Knobs off Amazon.

 

Room still looks a bit bare but will get a mirror, towel rail, shaver socket etc after the shower is done.

 

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  • Like 7
Posted
46 minutes ago, Temp said:

All painted up and plumbed in. Really pleased with the way the rounded corners turned out. You keep wanting to stroke them. I used two coats of Rust-oleum kitchen cabinet paint (which went on well with a brush) over Zinsser primer. Knobs off Amazon.

 

Room still looks a bit bare but will get a mirror, towel rail, shaver socket etc after the shower is done.

 

20221229_145016.thumb.jpg.36da426671cd320f5a0a3644fb9ac36a.jpg20221229_145212.thumb.jpg.4c74e8f8da6532ba2d75942f71ab42ca.jpg

 

 

That looks the nuts, just paid £650 for something very similar. 👍

Posted
3 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

That looks the nuts, just paid £650 for something very similar. 👍

 

That's exactly why I made it 🙂 

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 17/11/2022 at 22:38, Temp said:

The rounded corners were made by cutting a 75mm Diameter Poplar cylinder/dowel into four bits lengthwise.

 

That sounds like proper woodworking.  I would probably lose a couple of fingers attempting this.

Posted
1 minute ago, Mr Punter said:

 

That sounds like proper woodworking.  I would probably lose a couple of fingers attempting this.

 

I tack glued it into an L shape of MDF strips to stop it rotating as I ran it through the table saw. You can buy 1m lengths of the 76mm "dowel" for £41 but I went for a 500mm length at about £24 and used all four quarters. Wasn't as hard as I expected.

 

Cist breakdown..

 

Basin was around £240

 

Cabinet cost me..

1.5 sheets of 18mm water resist mdf. £70 ish

1 sheet of 9mm ditto £30 ish

A 76mm/3" diameter cylinder of Tulipwood from here.. £25 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tulipwood-Dowels-350mm-500mm-1m-lengths-various-diameters/324138601208?var=513190789483&pageci=40a9fb04-ce16-4b9c-8b6d-97f49b4bff70&redirect=mobile

Pair of Blum hinges £15

Tin of Zinsser £17

Tin of Rustoleum £25

Knobs - pack of 8 different £15

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078XH7NFF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Total for cabinet around £210. 

 

Overall about £450.

 

6 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

How many hours? if you don't mind?

 

Quite a few hours. Not exactly sure as I didn't count them and they were spread over about two months of odd days here and there. If I had to make one in a hurry probably a weeks work but I'm slow and listen to the Archers! I'm just a DIYer working in a shed way too small to cut 8*4 sheets. Had them cut in quarters by Huntingdon Timber so they fit in the S-Max. 

Posted (edited)

I built a whole kit kitchen since Christmas.

Small but still took 3 hours. It's very good, apart from needing lots of screws from my tin...and the instructions make ikea look good.

 

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Edited by saveasteading
  • Haha 2

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