Raising kitchen units

[James94]

Hi, We are going to run the quartz worktop right through to the window frame, had some issues with dpc height so the screed is not as high as intended to be. So now we have 25-30mm to make up on all of our kitchen units. 

 

What’s the best material to use to sit the units on? My dad suggested tiling as it needs to be something that will stay solid but it’s a freshly laid screed.

 

Do leg extensions exist? 

 

Thanks James 

[Bozza]

Wood / timber strips  would be fine.  Assuming you don’t have a freestanding washer or dishwasher 
 

The problem will be your plinths, you may need to get long decor panels & rip them down.  

 

 

[Mr Punter]

Do you really want a worktop that high?  900mm - 920mm is fairly standard.  You could just do the cill with the same material at a higher level.

[James94]

Could the ufh/ moisture possibly affect timber packers thus moving the units? If not would I need to use a marine ply or something similar?
 

Yeah I was thinking of that, or possibly skirting board. Not sure if that would work.

 

thanks 

[James94]

As we’re both over 6ft we wanted worktop at 950mm.

[Temp]

Would any packing be visible or covered by a kick board?

[James94]

Yes it would need to be covered with kick board or skirting

[Temp]

If the floor is tiled or vinyl you will probably want to mop it so water will probably get under the units.

 

Paving slabs might be a good option. BnQ are 35mm thick. Wickes have 32,35, 38mm

[James94]

We was considering a paving slab, looks like We will go with that idea.

 

thanks all

[Ferdinand]

My kitchen cupboard legs are adjustable usually.

 

Have you checked that yours aren't already?

[James94]

They are adjustable but we still need an extra 25-30mm 

[Mr Punter]

Is this going to be an overdepth worktop to get into the cill or is it one where they can invisibly fabricate a bit a the back?

[James94]

It’s going to be Overdepth at about 825mm 

[joe90]

As said above the kick board is your only problem and you may need to fabricate your own, however chipboard kick boards are prone to damp from floor cleaning if not sealed properly. If you have built in appliances (dishwasher) you may need to jack these up as well. (Paving slabs sound like a good idea).

Edited September 18, 2022 by joe90

[James94]

Decided to lower the cill as much as possible, hard work hand sawing it but I want to save causing issues with end panels and gaps under plinths.

 

ill just close the cavity off with pir and tape it.

 

james

[markocosic]

FWIW:

 

IKEA units have a smaller plinth than most on the market. This makes the units the *same height* as most freestanding appliances once you remove the OEM feet so you can sit them on plinths the same eight as the units and the top of the dishwasher fits the bottom of the worktop and the top of the tall fridge/freezers fits the top of the tall oven units etc. Plinth can be tall as you like then. So. Much. Nicer. Lifting. A. Dishwasher. (reduction in bending from lifting these up is fab)

 

We built timber frames behind the plinth to the desired height; then used plastic packers to fit the dishwasher (most noise is from water splashing inside so it's ok for it to be rigid mounted) hard up against the worktop; and plastic packers plus some brackets at the top to the wall to hold the fridge freezers. (2x; one for me; one for lodger; as house is shared to pay for it). I fudged up window heights (measured glass not frame) so you can see the sills are lower than the worktops. Oops but actually if it gets your worktop where you want it then worth it.

 

Wouldn't use pacing slabs. They'll move more than a piece of timber screwed to the floor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Set it back and you can't see it / it makes the floor look bigger in a small space. I used worktop offcuts (all with sealed edges to the floor and cut edges to the top) and sealed them to the floor with a bead of grey silicone to stop the "ffs who spilled milk on the floor under the kitchen units" issue. Or mopping if you were daft enough to do that on wood. (hold up ok actually when varnished to heck)

 

Offcuts came from the "splashback" that was made for the same worktop because I lack as much imagination as a do the patience for tiling. Router once. Jiggly saw the sockets. Bog it on with no more nails and hide the edge with shelves. Could even rebate it for pipework if you needed to. 

 

 

Similar thought process for washing machine / tumble dryer when it comes to sealing to the floor. Set them on a hard closed cell foam pad sillyconed to the floor. Now you can rinse down the floor without rinsing all the spilt milk under the appliances.

 

 

IKEA UNDERWERK extractor hides nicely but is lousy. Would not recommend. Gas man sucks teeth but if the top / bottom panels of the cupboard clip out actually it's ok to work on. (mostly front serviced those old 824 combis)

 

Drawer bins (sweep straight off worktop into a bin) and shelves under the sink for tins etc another suggestion. Put bins in a 40 cm deep drawer at the top. IKEA do ok ones. Again less bending or splashing gunk inside a cupboard from it falling from great height.