ash_scotland88 Posted September 15, 2022 Share Posted September 15, 2022 Really not my area of knowledge. We have a blocked downpipe. Took off the access cover near ground level and it's filled with organic material. Is there any home/DIY method to try and clear it? Also I only had to look at the bolts and they broke off due to rust, is the best method for removal to drill out the remaining bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted September 15, 2022 Share Posted September 15, 2022 Drill out remaining bits. Then get your hands in there. Finish of with a hose pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_scotland88 Posted September 15, 2022 Author Share Posted September 15, 2022 Thanks, cleared out what I could without getting the hands in and tried blasting with the house but just filled with water. I need to get the marigolds on! I do have drain roads but not sure if angles for flex will work. It's a downpipe that needs some TLC as around joints have been silicones, but I wonder if this is due to the water rising due blockage and trying to make the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 15, 2022 Share Posted September 15, 2022 No need for marigolds, it’s not poo, get in there it will only be leaves and a bit of crud from the roof, if it has the kitchen sink in it there could be the odd pea or a bit of rice ( don’t eat these) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_scotland88 Posted September 17, 2022 Author Share Posted September 17, 2022 Hands usually have a cuts and grazed so avoid infection! Do the things that cover the holes work? To me they look like they just cause problems elsewhere at height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_scotland88 Posted September 19, 2022 Author Share Posted September 19, 2022 Attempted a clear out yesterday. Got the drain roads down so far before hitting a blockage so ordered a pressure washer attachment as an attempt before calling the pros. The rusted on sheared bolts are also proving problematic. Drilled a pilot hole attempted with bolt extractors and they don't seem to be gripping. Admittedly pilot hole isn't aligned straight through the bolt. Not sure what next attempt should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 Stud extractors are great for sheared or broken off bolts etc. but if rusted in then you are looking at drilling and tapping a new thread or using self tappers for refitting the cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_scotland88 Posted November 25, 2022 Author Share Posted November 25, 2022 (edited) On 19/09/2022 at 14:07, markc said: Stud extractors are great for sheared or broken off bolts etc. but if rusted in then you are looking at drilling and tapping a new thread or using self tappers for refitting the cover I was just coming to update this, as it's one of those jobs that's low down on the list. Had a go today, and was able to break an extractor, along with smoothing off the grippy bits* on the chuck on my drill. But I think it will be tapping out a new thread. Bolts that are stuck are M10. *If any one knows the name I'll take the lesson. Drill is probably due a new chuck anyway as it used to get abused a lot in work. Also any tips for drilling a new hole? Usual small start, then a mid size or small pilot and straight to M10? Need a bit suitable for cast iron, or what I'm presuming is cast iron. Edited November 25, 2022 by ash_scotland88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 M10 is 8.5mm tapping drill. If you don’t already have a hole in the stud then spot the centre (needs to be very close) then drill something like 5mm then open up. Problem with cast iron is that it machines and drills very easily and drill bit will want to break out of the side of the stud and go through the iron instead. Chucks do not need the grooves so unless you are drilling accurate holes then a bit of wobble isn’t an issue for most jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash_scotland88 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 On 25/11/2022 at 16:20, markc said: M10 is 8.5mm tapping drill. If you don’t already have a hole in the stud then spot the centre (needs to be very close) then drill something like 5mm then open up. Problem with cast iron is that it machines and drills very easily and drill bit will want to break out of the side of the stud and go through the iron instead. Chucks do not need the grooves so unless you are drilling accurate holes then a bit of wobble isn’t an issue for most jobs. Might borrow hand drilling bits from work. If the old is that rusted in place then I suppose it doesn't need to be M10 to go in, although an m8 bolt head was maybe a tad small for the cover plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 Use a lipped bolt or a washer ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jilly Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 You are right to be a bit cautious of unknown stinky stuff. Bird poop can carry salmonella and all sorts. Get some veterinary rectal gloves, a box of disposable up to the shoulder gauntlets. Wear a couple as they can split under pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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