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Face fixing Siberian larch


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What nails would people recommend to face fix Siberian larch. 
obviously stainless steel, but lost head or round head?

 

I prefer the discreet look of a lost head nail, but has anyone had any issues with pull through or movement with lost heads?

Thanks

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37 minutes ago, JamesP said:

I fitted about 250sqm of Cedar using stainless steel screws. The heads disappear under the surface.

 

 

SS Screws..png

I had considered screwing it, but adding up the screw cost of £800-1000, versus a nail cost of approx £200 it’s going to be nailed. 
 

 

1 hour ago, markc said:

You shouldn’t have any problems with pull through and heads will be to suit gun. You can hand nail but that’s so much more effort and vibration on the structure.

Probably going for hand nailing, as it will all be face fixed, so keen on the improved accuracy of hand nailing it. Labour is free, if a bit tedious

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21 minutes ago, Kernow said:

I had considered screwing it, but adding up the screw cost of £800-1000, versus a nail cost of approx £200 it’s going to be nailed. 
 

 

Probably going for hand nailing, as it will all be face fixed, so keen on the improved accuracy of hand nailing it. Labour is free, if a bit tedious

I appreciate cost is a factor. The Spax fixings are 20 pence each and I used the Tongue Tite fixings at 5 pence each from Toolstation.

 

Tongue Tite SS..jpg

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56 minutes ago, JamesP said:

I appreciate cost is a factor. The Spax fixings are 20 pence each and I used the Tongue Tite fixings at 5 pence each from Toolstation.

 

Tongue Tite SS..jpg

got our tongue-tites from https://tradefixdirect.com/stainless-steel-screws/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-flooring-screws-35-x-45mm. bulk buying works out at about 4p per screw

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3 hours ago, Kernow said:

Interesting, if you used tongue tite did you fix them through the face of the board or through the tongue?

 

Do you have any pictures of how they look now?

through the tongue for us. chippie says not an issue as the T&G holds it all together and stops the boards curving round. ours are still being fitted so no pictures oh how they age.

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5 hours ago, Kernow said:

Interesting, if you used tongue tite did you fix them through the face of the board or through the tongue?

 

Do you have any pictures of how they look now?

Cladding is British WRC. About 200mm wide boards fixed using Tongue Tite.

IMG_8389.jpeg

IMG_8390.jpeg

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10 hours ago, Thorfun said:

through the tongue for us. chippie says not an issue as the T&G holds it all together and stops the boards curving round. ours are still being fitted so no pictures oh how they age.

Yes through the tongue is the standard why of using them, just not fully convinced that face fixing with them will be adequate, as the head is so small. 
 

8 hours ago, JamesP said:

Cladding is British WRC. About 200mm wide boards fixed using Tongue Tite.

IMG_8389.jpeg

IMG_8390.jpeg

Thanks JamesP, looks good. Hardly noticeable there. Thanks

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7 minutes ago, Kernow said:

Yes through the tongue is the standard why of using them, just not fully convinced that face fixing with them will be adequate, as the head is so small. 

our carpenter was originally going to face fix with them but then when he saw the T&G profile he changed to fixing through the tongue. so, you can use the tongue-tites either way!

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Ours is rebated feather-edge, face-fixed at 400mm centres.  There was the occasional slightly cupped board that wouldn't pull in tight when it was fixed, but I don't think anything has moved much since installation.

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Face fixed with lost heads us7ng a paslode with no mark tip.  

 

Use stainless steel paslode brads. Looks perfect...cannot be seen from the ground. 

 

Don't fix them in the tongue, it's simply not required. 

 

This is my siberian larch, 100m2 fitted. 

20220601_195342.jpg

20220306_122705.jpg

20220419_201204.jpg

Edited by SuperJohnG
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