MortarThePoint Posted October 28 Author Share Posted October 28 12 minutes ago, Pocster said: I had exactly this issue ! it was a pita and I brought the entire fitting forward in situ just to gain a few mm for the tiles . I'm glad I've spotted the issue now. I'm getting ready to tank it all (Aquaseal) so whilst the delay isn't welcomed, hopefully I won't have to muddle a fix later 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 28 Author Share Posted October 28 4 minutes ago, Pocster said: Wastes supplied with trays are almost universally shite ! Gulp, hopefully the Mira Flight one is OK as I'll be wrestling with that in a few days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 Just now, MortarThePoint said: Gulp, hopefully the Mira Flight one is OK as I'll be wrestling with that in a few days I had a few trays and naturally assumed supplied waste would be good . Eventually as advised on here I gave up ( I couldn’t stop them leaking no matter how hard I tried ) . Got a proper waste and trap . Instantly felt better as I installed it . Neither have leaked since . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 28 Author Share Posted October 28 25 minutes ago, Pocster said: I had a few trays and naturally assumed supplied waste would be good . Eventually as advised on here I gave up ( I couldn’t stop them leaking no matter how hard I tried ) . Got a proper waste and trap . Instantly felt better as I installed it . Neither have leaked since . Mira Flight aren't 90mm otherwise I would have swapped to McAlpine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 (edited) 12 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: This sort or widget Tap Extension - 1/2" M x 1/2" F - 10222 Can be got in various lengths I've ordered these (BES) for quick delivery. I have also found another option which is using longer offset connectors: Those are 65mm total length, but there are also 60mm and 50mm ones. There are even 75mm ones and probably other lengths too if you search hard enough. Also available in silver colour. If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local. I think I prefer the BES option as it can be fitted and tanked at this stage. I suppose the straight one can too, but then you have to be sure of centres etc. Edited October 29 by MortarThePoint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Would these give more length? https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-1-2-2-pack/2665r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 10 minutes ago, Onoff said: Would these give more length? https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-1-2-2-pack/2665r I wondered about going that route and then using a tails connection kit (image below). I'm not confident there is enough meat in the blockwork around this though to get the securing screws in for that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 34 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said: If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local. An additional concern with this approach is that the bush would need tightening and there's no spanner access. You could lock it off using the nut supplied on the tube though. These straight adaptors address that problem, but are only 51mm long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 (edited) Am I missing something here? What's wrong with a Hep2O elbow and a length of copper sticking out through the wall in the correct place. Then tank and tile as required. Then drill the tiles and fit these with long screws, rawlplugs and plenty of mastic in the screw hole? You'll need to drill tiles but it's not rocket science. Edited October 29 by Iceverge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 32 minutes ago, Iceverge said: Am I missing something here? What's wrong with a Hep2O elbow and a length of copper sticking out through the wall in the correct place. Then tank and tile as required. Then drill the tiles and fit these with long screws, rawlplugs and plenty of mastic in the screw hole? You'll need to drill tiles but it's not rocket science. A different approach but not where I am now and I'm not going back to square one when there are good solutions where I am. I think you need to chase the blockwork A lot deeper to fit the elbow. A small downside of that approach is the centres aren't fixed. I'm doing this elsewhere in a stud wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MortarThePoint Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 (edited) The last resort if you got caught out by this shower elbow issue and it not coming out far enough, you could change the covers to ones that are tighter to the wall. It would make the shower bar tighter to the wall, but it's perhaps an option: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005003674213511.html You can even find some with rubber seals. Edited October 29 by MortarThePoint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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