1930's Suspended Timber UFH options?

[Gone West]

2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Ok, I thought in the 1930,s it was all solid 9inch brick. 

We had a late Victorian cottage years ago and that had cavity walls.

[saveasteading]

I would expect that to be cavity wall. If you can check the wall thickness it will provide a strong clue. Measure at the door or a window.

[Ferdinand]

I think this will be OK, and @Russell griffiths is being a bit of a Jeremiah 🙂 .

 

Importantly, don't forget your ventilation. and to do things in the right order if you are doing EWI or something sealing the walls.

 

I think you might find that the top end of 2G might do it these days. Worth a look.

 

If IWI-ing, I'm guessing around 75-100mm of celotex is the ballpark, perhaps plus cavity wall insulation.

 

For the suspended floors, one way some people have done it is to seal the void from water and completely fill with polystrene beads. Another is to attach your insulation to the joists, where you need either ventilation to keep them dry, or to guarantee ansence of moisture. When I did a suspended floor, I did rockwool with a staple gun, and celotex on top (new or trimmed doors), then a click-fit laminate on top of that. With services all running in a void in the new subfloor along the inside walls.

 

UFH is possible in a thickness of 18mm using systems such as Wunda. Or oversize rads or use air.

https://www.wundagroup.com/underfloor-heating/

 

As to where you could be getting to, I suggest aiming for current new house building standard as a reasonable target.

 

Detail is everything.

 

ATB.

 

[RedMango]

On 23/07/2022 at 16:18, Ferdinand said:

I think this will be OK, and @Russell griffiths is being a bit of a Jeremiah 🙂 .

 

Importantly, don't forget your ventilation. and to do things in the right order if you are doing EWI or something sealing the walls.

 

I think you might find that the top end of 2G might do it these days. Worth a look.

 

If IWI-ing, I'm guessing around 75-100mm of celotex is the ballpark, perhaps plus cavity wall insulation.

 

For the suspended floors, one way some people have done it is to seal the void from water and completely fill with polystrene beads. Another is to attach your insulation to the joists, where you need either ventilation to keep them dry, or to guarantee ansence of moisture. When I did a suspended floor, I did rockwool with a staple gun, and celotex on top (new or trimmed doors), then a click-fit laminate on top of that. With services all running in a void in the new subfloor along the inside walls.

 

UFH is possible in a thickness of 18mm using systems such as Wunda. Or oversize rads or use air.

https://www.wundagroup.com/underfloor-heating/

 

As to where you could be getting to, I suggest aiming for current new house building standard as a reasonable target.

 

Detail is everything.

 

ATB.

 

 

Thanks, I think EWI is a no go currently. I've decided to go for oversized radiators working off a delta T of 25. so should be easily enough for a ASHP or running a combi if i go that route.

[Ferdinand]

2 minutes ago, RedMango said:

 

Thanks, I think EWI is a no go currently. I've decided to go for oversized radiators working off a delta T of 25. so should be easily enough for a ASHP or running a combi if i go that route.

If you are well insulated perhaps put them on inside walls - closer together and fewer pipes..

[Adsibob]

4 hours ago, RedMango said:

 

Thanks, I think EWI is a no go currently. I've decided to go for oversized radiators working off a delta T of 25. so should be easily enough for a ASHP or running a combi if i go that route.

Why a no go? Because of budget. If so, my builder specialises in this and it was one of the few things he wired for which I thought was really reasonable. Where are you based?

[Shoestring]

If you are taking up the floors and relaying them you could look at something like this for an option for UFH.  We are using a similar product in the upstairs of our house which is timber joists & caberdeck boards. Although I am not sure how you would insulate below it for the downstairs in your house, I am sure you could make something work. 

https://www.nu-heat.co.uk/blog/a-closer-look-at-clippaplate/

You can also get pre routed board to take UFH pipes.

 

Our situation is a little different to yours as we are doing a big extension, rather than a renovation.  We are on mains gas, so have decided to go with a system boiler (which is hydrogen ready) & a hot water cylinder over ASHP or GSHP.  A Combi boiler is not suitable for us, because of the number of bathrooms/size of house.  Despite the £5k government help towards ASHP & GSHP we found the initial outlay for them to be prohibitively expensive, compared to a gas boiler.  We have spared no expense when it comes to insulation though.  The hope is with a well insulated house, we won't need to run the heating all that much anyway!

 

Like everyone I would strongly recommend insulating as much as you can and get quality windows and make sure they are well fitted.  A note in windows; Don't assume triple glazed is better than double, not all products are created equal and coatings on the glass/types of glass/quality of the frames can make a huge difference to the overall performance.

 

Hope all that is helpful to you.