Pocster Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 No wonder some people ‘bed’ them with expanding foam . It is tempting to sit it on packers nice and level and then just foam underneath- but that would be a bodge …. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 Assume it’s ok to link to this http://ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=48486&start=30 The mods then locked it ! (expletive deleted)ing talking about foam on copings . Here we have to all go mental for hundreds of pages before it gets locked 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 (edited) I've done exactly what you're advocating, that is got the packers level and CT1'd in place. Then slopped the mortar on. Put the "stones" on and they will only bed as far as the packers. Just can't recall where I used the technique. Not sure if shrinkage will be an issue as mortar/ concrete shrinks back a bit I believe. Edited April 10, 2022 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 20 minutes ago, Onoff said: I've done exactly what you're advocating, that is got the packers level and CT1'd in place. Then slopped the mortar on. Put the "stones" on and they will only bed as far as the packers. Just can't recall where I used the technique. Not sure if shrinkage will be an issue as mortar/ concrete shrinks back a bit I believe. Tempted to do this . Let the cement cure for a bit and then just a few lines of grip fill on the cement . Then bed it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 Can you drill 3 hole, making a triangle. Then put plugs and screws in. Adjust with your level, slop some puddin all over, drop on the capping. Wiggle about until they hit the screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 41 minutes ago, pocster said: Tempted to do this . Let the cement cure for a bit and then just a few lines of grip fill on the cement . Then bed it . Personally I'd only bed them on a full mortar bed. Heavily laden with SBR. I'd then pipe the joints with the same stuff. Do it properly or water will get under them, freeze, expand and loosen them over not too long a time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adsibob Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 Can you hide the wall by raising the floor level either side of it by the height of the wall. Then you will really show off your coping stones. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 1 hour ago, Adsibob said: Can you hide the wall by raising the floor level either side of it by the height of the wall. Then you will really show off your coping stones. I wanted to type (expletive deleted) off ; but I couldn’t 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Not sure if shrinkage will be an issue as mortar/ concrete shrinks back a bit I believe. That's why you really don't want it 'grounding out' on something solid. The same applies to brick/block/stone - your building units can then become loose after the mortar has cured. There is one little 'trick' that springs to mind though - if you're whacking something down to a level on a full bed and you overdo it, then usually you just have to take it on the chin and lift off and redo the bed. But because the muck is hydraulic, i.e. incompressible, you can sometimes hammer-in a strip of plywood or something a bit narrower than the bed thickness (and the same width as what you're lifting) as a drift which will force the mortar to bunch-up and push up the thing that needs lifting at one edge. You definitely don't want to just lever it up as that will create voids but having it being pushed up by the mortar is fine. At a given point though, if you've squeezed all the water out, it will just lock-up solid. If it does work you can then pull out the drift and point in the gap you made at the edge. I've often done this successfully with heavy concrete patio slabs but you'll certainly need a big old lump hammer to persuade your bigger stones. Go careful! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Taking all the advice and suggestions I had a brief moment of brilliance! The issues are the bed being flat and the fact copings don’t particularly stick well to concrete. So ! . Rebar rods down each side that are dead level , packers if need be .Cement them in and fill any holes with cement . SBR on the existing base . Then concrete again along the middle using the rebar rods as a definitive level I.e drag a piece of timber along them . Should get a guaranteed level . 3 lines of grip fill and just place coping on . No fumbling with packing , cement dropping etc. This is THE solution ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 7 minutes ago, pocster said: This is THE solution Man you goes to bed with problem, wakes up with solution on belly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 I have never heard of foam or adhesives for attaching coping stones. It's always been bedded in M12 mortar (plus DPC), with stainless steel fixings for any exposed/high risk locations. https://uklintels.com/product-category/coping-clips/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 1 hour ago, George said: I have never heard of foam or adhesives for attaching coping stones. It's always been bedded in M12 mortar (plus DPC), with stainless steel fixings for any exposed/high risk locations. https://uklintels.com/product-category/coping-clips/ I know . But I’m special Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 (edited) Rebar bars dead level Cement rather than foam as too breezy . Leave to cure for a bit then SBR . A non stiff cement mix . Tap it in using the rebar as my guide . Perfecto ! ( in theory ) Edited April 11, 2022 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 5 hours ago, pocster said: 3 lines of grip fill and just place coping on Not unless the concrete has dried for at least 30 days and you’ve kept it dry too as it will just pull off. What’s wrong with using an SBR mortar mix ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 34 minutes ago, pocster said: Think I’ll go and glue some coping stones incorrectly. Anyone want to buy crazy paving ? Ffs . 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 17 minutes ago, Onoff said: Think I’ll go and glue some coping stones incorrectly. Anyone want to buy crazy paving ? Ffs . Oi ! You said you packed and glued with ct1 ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 (edited) 34 minutes ago, PeterW said: Not unless the concrete has dried for at least 30 days and you’ve kept it dry too as it will just pull off. What’s wrong with using an SBR mortar mix ..?? Nothing - but it would have to be a super thin bed . The coping stones don’t exactly stick well to mortar in my experience. What’s wrong with an adhesive ? Edited April 11, 2022 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 8 minutes ago, pocster said: Oi ! You said you packed and glued with ct1 ! Erm...no, I said I'd glued the packs on with CT1 then slopped mortar on so the stones/blocks "sank" only as far as the packs. I then went onto say about possible shrinkage. Remembered where it was now, doing my gate pillar caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 8 minutes ago, pocster said: Nothing - but it would have to be a super thin bed . The coping stones don’t exactly stick well to mortar in my experience. What’s wrong with an adhesive ? Could be because you’re using the wrong type of mortar or not pre-priming etc..? I bed them on to 5/1/0.5 sand cement lime with a waterproofing admix and they don’t move anywhere. Gun adhesives are not designed for this sort of situation - you need a full width bed under the coping stones or they will just pull free. If you want a thin set full bed adhesive for these then this stuff is good - will work well with your concrete infil as will mechanically bond also. https://www.homebase.co.uk/norcros-rock-tite-outdoor-tile-mortar-25kg/13628420.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Just now, Onoff said: Erm...no, I said I'd glued the packs on with CT1 then slopped mortar on so the stones/blocks "sank" only as far as the packs. I then went onto say about possible shrinkage. Remembered where it was now, doing my gate pillar caps. The problem as as you say they could just be sat on the packers not even bonded to the base . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 3 minutes ago, pocster said: The problem as as you say they could just be sat on the packers not even bonded to the base . I don't think in this instance it'll be a huge issue. Tbh though as long as your mortar mix isn't too sloppy you should be able to bed them in dead straight and level without packs, tapping down here and there. That's how a proper bricky or most of here would do it. Mortar squidges out and you just run a tool along like I did above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 55 minutes ago, Onoff said: That's how a proper bricky The same brickies that know nothing about airtightness, and usually get the window openings wrong. Quite impressed with @pocster's solution, quick and easy, and he had the rebar kicking about (cause he ain't got a clue how to use a tape measure yet, the final coping stone won't fit). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Well ; it’s nice and level . I do like my rebar method and will use that principle again on the front . I will bed the copings in a very thin cement mix with Sbr - so I don’t get any abuse . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now